In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the Golden Gate to the Santa Monica Pier: 750 kilometres of coastline where you wipe the fog off the high roof in the morning and watch whales from your pitch in the evening.
The spirit of the route
Highway 1 feels like one long exhale. Beyond San Francisco the traffic thins, the marine layer settles over the cliffs like cotton wool, and through the open sliding door you smell salt, eucalyptus and kelp. In Big Sur the road clings to rock walls 200 metres above the surf, redwoods stand in shady canyons, and at night all you hear is the Pacific. Further south the coast softens: elephant seals doze on the beach at Piedras Blancas, Morro Rock rises out of the haze, and in Santa Barbara the roofs glow red. At the end the camper rolls through Malibu, where surfers wait for the last wave in low light. The route rewards slowness but demands planning: short stages, early starts, pitches booked six months ahead – and in 2026 an eye on the closures the Big Sur fires have left behind.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: San Francisco to Santa Cruz (approx. 125 km)
- The drive
- From San Francisco via Daly City and Pacifica and through the two Tom Lantos Tunnels (Devil’s Slide) onto Highway 1. After that it is two lanes, mostly 55 mph (88 km/h), with long straights past artichoke, pumpkin and strawberry fields and tighter stretches at the creek mouths. On sunny weekends, especially in October around Half Moon Bay (pumpkin sales), traffic backs up. Driving time is a good 2.5 hours, a full day with stops. Fuel is available in Pacifica, Half Moon Bay and Santa Cruz, and almost nowhere in between.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pigeon Point Lighthouse: the grounds are open daily from 8 am to sunset and the museum, as last reported, Friday to Monday 10 am–4 pm; the tower itself has been closed to visitors since 2001 and is being restored. A short hour is enough, and whales can be spotted from the cliffs from December to April.
- Año Nuevo State Park: from April to November you walk on your own with a free daily permit (8:30 am–3:30 pm) 3–4 miles across dunes to the elephant seals; from December to March a guided tour booked through ReserveCalifornia is mandatory. Keep at least 25 feet (7.5 m) from the animals, dogs are not allowed, entry is 10 USD per vehicle, allow 2.5–3 hours.
- Bean Hollow State Beach: tide pools and a cliff path between Pescadero and Pigeon Point, full of sea stars and anemones at low tide. Check the tide table beforehand and leave stones and animals where they are.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Half Moon Bay State Beach (Francis Beach): right behind the dunes, vehicles up to 40 ft (12.2 m), sites with electricity or dry, no water or sewer hookup at the pitch; fresh-water fill station, dump station for 10 USD (not included in the booking), coin showers. At the end of September almost all dates were booked. Second choice: New Brighton State Beach near Capitola on a bluff under pines, over 100 sites, 11 of them with hookups, sanitation station by the visitor centre (check the maximum length with ReserveCalifornia before booking). Book up to six months ahead; the Santa Cruz parks share a combined limit of 30 nights per calendar year.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Along the whole San Mateo and Santa Cruz coast, overnighting in a vehicle on streets, beach car parks and viewpoints is prohibited almost everywhere (“No Overnight Parking”); enforcement is strict and fines run to three figures in dollars. There is no legal free-camping alternative on the coast; national forest land (dispersed camping) only begins further inland.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Golden Gate Bridge charges only southbound, all-electronic; in 2026 two-axle vehicles pay 10.25 USD with FasTrak, 10.50 USD by licence plate or One-Time Payment and 11.25 USD by invoice, three-axle vehicles (a motorhome with a tandem axle) 30.75–33.75 USD. Payment is possible up to 30 days before or 48 hours after; rental companies often add service fees, so ask about their terms. If you start in San Francisco you pay nothing on the way out, but you do when returning from the north.
2Stage 2: Santa Cruz to Big Sur (approx. 120 km)
- The drive
- Through strawberry and artichoke fields to Monterey and Carmel; south of Carmel the real Big Sur section begins, with tight bends, bridges over gorges and few pull-outs, speed limits in places of 25–45 mph. Beyond Point Lobos there is no town, only a few scattered fuel stations, and mobile coverage drops. Driving time about 3 hours, half a day more with photo stops. Important in 2026: Highway 1 has only been fully open again since 14 January 2026 after the Paul’s Slide and Regent’s Slide landslides; because of the Timber Fire (since 8 August, 88% contained as of 28 September) it was closed in sections in late summer and, according to Cal Fire, is currently open between Carmel and Cambria, with heavy equipment and fire vehicles at the roadside.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Point Lobos State Natural Reserve: cypresses, sea otters and seals on short loop trails, daily 8 am–7 pm, 10 USD per vehicle. Vehicles over 21 ft (6.4 m) may neither enter nor park inside the reserve – leave motorhomes on the highway where signs allow it, or at a nearby campground; dogs are not allowed.
- Bixby Creek Bridge: photograph the 1932 arch bridge from the pull-out north of it, still without tour coaches early in the morning. The pull-out is small; larger vehicles should not park across it but use the shoulder as signed.
- Pfeiffer Beach with the Keyhole Arch: Sycamore Canyon Road is narrow, and motorhomes and trailers are not permitted; the light in the arch is best around sunset in winter. Skip it without a suitable vehicle.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park in the redwoods on the Big Sur River: motorhomes up to 32 ft (9.8 m), trailers up to 27 ft (8.2 m), showers, drinking water and dump station, no hookups; day-use fee 10 USD. Kirk Creek Campground (Los Padres National Forest) 100 feet above the sea: 40 sites, vehicles up to 30 ft (9.1 m), 45 USD per night, toilets only, no drinking water, booked through Recreation.gov with six months’ lead. Note: both sites are closed after the Timber and Plaskett fires (Pfeiffer Big Sur according to State Parks as of 15 September 2026, Kirk Creek according to the Forest Service since August); so are Andrew Molera, Point Sur and Julia Pfeiffer Burns. Check the status with California State Parks or the Los Padres National Forest before any booking; otherwise fall back on Monterey/Carmel or San Simeon.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Dispersed camping is in principle allowed in the Los Padres National Forest but is practically ruled out for now: the Forest Service has extended its campfire order to 31 January 2027 (fires only at designated sites, gas and liquid-fuel stoves only with a California Campfire Permit; fines up to 5,000 USD), and parts of the forest, including Nacimiento-Fergusson Road, are closed. That road is steep, narrow and unsuitable for large motorhomes anyway. On the coast itself: no overnighting in pull-outs or car parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel and water in Carmel or Monterey: Big Sur has only a few stations (for example the Chevron at Big Sur Station), and prices have at times been close to 10 USD a gallon. Load an offline map and check Caltrans QuickMap or 1-800-427-7623 the day before. Under California law (CVC 21656) slow vehicles must pull over once five or more vehicles queue behind them – use the pull-outs generously. A stop at McWay Falls is only worthwhile after a status check (see stage 3).
3Stage 3: Big Sur to San Luis Obispo (approx. 150 km)
- The drive
- First the wildest part of Big Sur with switchbacks high above the sea and some steep climbs and descents, then flatter and faster from Ragged Point, pasture down to the water, later farmland and the Morro Bay lagoon. San Simeon and Cambria have fuel stations and supermarkets, and mobile coverage returns from Ragged Point. Driving time a good 3 hours, a full day with stops. Highway 1 is mostly 55 mph, 25–35 mph through towns.
- Highlights & must-sees
- McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park: the 80-foot (24 m) waterfall drops straight onto the beach. The short Overlook Trail has been closed since 16 April 2025 for a retaining-wall repair and the park is also closed because of the fires; entry is 10 USD (also valid for Pfeiffer Big Sur), parking is very limited. Check the status with California State Parks beforehand.
- Elephant Seal Vista Point at Piedras Blancas: free all year, open from sunrise to sunset, platforms and paths right by the car park, guides on site daily 10 am–4 pm, no toilets. Broadly speaking most animals are on the beach in winter (births) and in spring/summer (moult); 30 minutes is enough.
- Morro Rock in Morro Bay: the 176 m volcanic plug rises at the harbour entrance, sea otters lie in the harbour, and the car park at the rock is tight for large vehicles. Kayaks can be rented on the Embarcadero.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Morro Bay State Park between lagoon and eucalyptus grove: over 140 sites, vehicles up to 35 ft (10.7 m), some sites with electricity, fresh water, dump station and coin showers, maximum eight people and two vehicles per site. Hearst San Simeon State Park: San Simeon Creek (134 sites, up to 35 ft, no hookups, dump station, coin showers) and the simpler Washburn (68 sites, up to 35 ft) a little inland; maximum 10 nights in a row. Montaña de Oro (Islay Creek, 47 basic sites) takes vehicles only up to 27 ft (8.2 m), without electricity, dump station or showers. Book through ReserveCalifornia up to six months ahead.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the Oceano Dunes south of Pismo Beach, beach camping without designated sites is possible: vault and chemical toilets, reservation through ReserveCalifornia up to six months ahead, entry at Post 2 (one mile south of Pier Avenue), day-use 5 USD, open 7 am–10 pm. Four-wheel drive is recommended; tides, sand and creeks can block access, so watch the park’s capacity notices. Without a four-wheel-drive vehicle this is not an option for a camper.
- Insider tip for campers
- Between Ragged Point and Cambria there are several wide, partly unpaved pull-outs. In California slow vehicles must pull over once five or more queue behind them – ignore that and you risk a fine and a poor reputation among the locals. Fuel up in San Simeon and Cambria, and fill and empty the tanks in Morro Bay or at the campground. Mind the surf: sneaker waves wash far up beaches such as Moonstone Beach without warning.
4Stage 4: San Luis Obispo to Santa Barbara (approx. 160 km)
- The drive
- First back onto Highway 1 through Pismo Beach, then faster on US-101 through Santa Maria and over the Gaviota Pass, where the road runs right along the sea from the Gaviota coast: two to three lanes each way, few bends, 65 mph (105 km/h), 55 mph for vehicles with trailers. Occasional closures for rock removal near Gaviota; check traffic before leaving. Driving time about 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pismo State Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove: from November to February monarchs hang in clusters in the eucalyptus trees, daily from sunrise to sunset, free entry, address 445 South Dolliver. Numbers have been very low for years; half an hour is enough.
- Mission La Purísima near Lompoc: the most completely reconstructed Spanish mission complex in California, with gardens and workshops, about 1.5 hours for a walk-round; check opening times and admission beforehand, the detour adds roughly 45 minutes.
- Mission Santa Barbara and Stearns Wharf: the “Queen of the Missions” in the Riviera district, plus the wooden pier on the beach. Both are only worth it with a parking plan, see the tip: motorhomes have hardly any legal parking downtown.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: El Capitán State Beach near Goleta: reopened in June/July 2026 after an 18-month closure (new bridge and wider entrance road, parts of the nature trail still a building site); no hookups, showers, vehicles up to 42 ft (12.8 m) according to a camping portal – check the length figure with ReserveCalifornia; 45–55 USD per night. Refugio State Beach next door: 67 sites, vehicles up to 30 ft (9.1 m), no hookups; reservable April to November, walk-in only in winter. Pismo State Beach (North Beach) allows motorhomes up to 36 ft and trailers up to 31 ft. Booked months ahead in summer, six months’ lead time.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Sleeping in a vehicle is prohibited within Santa Barbara city limits: the oversized-vehicle rule (SBMC 10.44.220) applies to vehicles over 25 ft in length, 80 inches in width or 82 inches in height, and § 10.44.200 bans parking of trailers, buses and vehicles over ¾ ton between 2 and 6 am without police permission. The Santa Ynez Mountains in the Los Padres National Forest have basic Forest Service campgrounds; dispersed camping there is practically unusable at present because of the fire order.
- Insider tip for campers
- The city of Santa Barbara has four oversized-vehicle car parks (Leadbetter, Harbor West, Garden Street, Palm Park) with five yellow-marked bays each for vehicles of 22 to 33 ft – daytime only, overnighting there is prohibited; information from Waterfront Parking on 805-564-5523. Secure a space early in the day and reach downtown and Stearns Wharf on foot. Height limits in car parks are often around 2 m, so never drive in.
5Stage 5: Santa Barbara to Malibu and Los Angeles (approx. 170 km)
- The drive
- Via Carpinteria and Ventura, back on Highway 1 (Pacific Coast Highway, PCH) from Oxnard. Between Point Mugu and Malibu the PCH is squeezed between the Santa Monica Mountains and the beach, 45–55 mph, sluggish at rush hour: drive before 7 am or at the weekend. Between Malibu and Santa Monica repairs after the Palisades fire of January 2025 continue, with lane and road closures that change weekly; Caltrans publishes the list weekly, plus Caltrans QuickMap. Driving time about 2.5–3 hours, more in traffic.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Channel Islands National Park: visitor centre in Ventura Harbor (1901 Spinnaker Drive), crossings from Ventura and Oxnard with Island Packers (805-642-1393), book early in summer; overnighting on Santa Cruz and Anacapa only with transport and a camping reservation. Allow a whole day for a day trip.
- El Matador State Beach: sea arches and surf caves, reached by a steep staircase from the small car park; almost no beach at high tide. The car park is small and unsuitable for motorhomes; check the access on the spot, and if necessary stop on the highway and walk where signs allow.
- Santa Monica Pier: the end of Route 66 and of the trip. There is hardly any room there for motorhomes, and the car parks nearby have height limits around 2 m. It is better to leave the vehicle at the campground and take a bus or taxi to the pier.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Leo Carrillo State Park in a canyon under sycamores: around 130 sites, vehicles up to 31 ft (9.4 m), some sites with electricity (30/50 A, about 60 USD), dump station, coin showers, shop in the park, pedestrian tunnel under the PCH to the beach; standard site 45 USD. Point Mugu State Park, Thornhill Broome Beach: combined length of tow vehicle plus trailer at most 31 ft, height up to 13 ft 6 in; water, showers (1-dollar bills only), dump station; the site is regularly flooded at high tide and surf – ask about the tides on arrival. For the last night near LAX, Dockweiler State Beach (run by Los Angeles County) has sites with hookups, bookable from 24 hours to 90 days ahead, under the approach path, no dogs.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): There is no legal free camping by the sea in the Greater Los Angeles area; Malibu and Santa Monica consistently fine overnighting in vehicles. Fall back on the state parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- Empty the tanks at a state park dump station before Los Angeles and fill up with fresh water – disposal options in the city are rare. Rental motorhomes often require emptied tanks and a final clean on return; ask the rental company about the terms beforehand. On approaching Santa Monica, mind the height of car parks, many of which are limited to around 2 m.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Overnighting outside designated sites is prohibited almost everywhere on the California coast; cities and counties impose fines, often in the three-figure dollar range. Sleeping in vehicles on streets, beach car parks, viewpoints and picnic areas is checked at night by rangers, sheriffs and city police, particularly strictly in Santa Cruz, Santa Barbara and Malibu.
- Dispersed camping is legal on most national forest and Bureau of Land Management land, usually up to 14 days in one place – but not near the coast. In the Los Padres National Forest a fire order applies from 4 June 2026 to 31 January 2027: campfires only at 68 designated sites (including Kirk Creek), gas and liquid-fuel stoves only with a California Campfire Permit (free online), penalties up to 5,000 USD. Because of the fires the forest is partly closed until 31 January 2027; check the status beforehand.
- Santa Barbara prohibits parking vehicles over 25 ft, 80 inches wide or 82 inches high on signed streets; between 2 and 6 am trailers, buses and vehicles over ¾ ton may not park without police permission. The four city oversized-vehicle car parks are for daytime parking only; overnighting is prohibited.
- Many supermarket car parks no longer allow overnighting; ask in the store, otherwise take no risk. Caltrans rest areas allow parking only for a limited time (usually 8 hours), no camping. At Oceano Dunes, beach camping by contrast requires a reservation through ReserveCalifornia, and four-wheel drive is recommended.
- Wildlife: at least 25 feet (7.5 m) from elephant seals at Año Nuevo, about 50 yards (45 m) from seals and sea otters; feeding is prohibited. Mountain lions, black bears (rare) and rattlesnakes live in the hills; keep food in the vehicle at night and avoid food smells. Dogs are prohibited or allowed only on a leash on beaches, in Point Lobos and in most nature reserves.
- Useful apps and sites: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, plus Recreation.gov (federal land, e.g. Kirk Creek) and ReserveCalifornia (state parks, booking up to six months ahead). Road conditions from Caltrans QuickMap or 1-800-427-7623, fire status from Cal Fire and the state parks notices.
- If you cannot get a site, there are three realistic fallbacks: walk-in or short-notice sites (Refugio, for example, is walk-in only from December to March), private RV parks in the towns (Santa Cruz, Monterey, Pismo Beach, Ventura, Malibu), and single nights near the rental depot. The campground office often knows about sites becoming free; check-in is usually at 2 pm, check-out at noon.
- If checked at night in a car park, the cooperative way is best: stay friendly, leave the spot, do not argue about interpretation. Fines on rental motorhomes usually end up with the rental company and are passed on with a handling fee.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations are found in many state parks, often also for non-guests for a fee: Half Moon Bay (Francis Beach, 10 USD), New Brighton, Pfeiffer Big Sur (closed), Morro Bay, San Simeon Creek, Leo Carrillo, Point Mugu. Montaña de Oro has neither a dump station nor showers. sanidumps.com gives an overview; dumps at fuel stations usually charge a fee.
- Tap water in California is drinkable; some campgrounds post notices about water quality. Kirk Creek has no drinking water, so bring canisters. Filter or boil water from creeks and rivers. Fresh-water stations are at Half Moon Bay, Morro Bay and San Simeon Creek.
- Never drain grey water onto the ground or into creeks; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations. Many campgrounds limit guests per site to eight people and two vehicles (Morro Bay, Montaña de Oro).
- Propane at U-Haul stations, fuel stations and propane dealers (for example in Santa Cruz, San Luis Obispo and Ventura). European gas cylinders need an adapter and are mostly not refilled; rental motorhomes have permanently installed US tanks, so check the level before Big Sur.
- Fuel: normal fuel stations along the coast as far as Carmel; then only scattered ones in Big Sur (reported at times at almost 10 USD a gallon). Fill up regularly in Carmel, Monterey, San Simeon, Cambria or Morro Bay.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Santa Cruz, Monterey, Carmel (Safeway), San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara; in Big Sur only small shops with high prices. Fill the cool box with ice in Carmel or Cambria.
- Power: campgrounds with hookups offer 30 and 50 A (for example Leo Carrillo, 120 V); rental motorhomes usually have the matching US cable. Without a hookup, plan on the house battery; generators are allowed on state park sites only at set times.
- Laundry and rubbish: coin laundries in Santa Cruz, Monterey, Cambria, Morro Bay, San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara; campgrounds have rubbish and recycling containers, and in Big Sur bins are sometimes closed wildlife-proof.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: freeways up to 65 (70 where signed), two-lane highways without a sign 55, in towns 25–35, Big Sur in places 25–45. With a trailer CVC 22406 sets a maximum of 55 mph, likewise for trucks with three or more axles; a motorhome without a trailer follows the signs. Under CVC 21656 slow vehicles must pull over when five or more vehicles follow.
- Tolls and fees: Golden Gate Bridge southbound only, electronic (2026: two-axle 10.25 USD FasTrak, 10.50 USD by plate, 11.25 USD by invoice; three-axle 30.75–33.75 USD), payment from 30 days before to 48 hours after; rental companies often add a service fee. Express lanes in Los Angeles need FasTrak or a transponder. No low-emission zones on Highway 1.
- Parks and entry: day-use fees 5–10 USD per vehicle (Año Nuevo and Point Lobos 10 USD, Oceano Dunes 5 USD). Campground prices in 2026 are 45–60 USD per night; premium sites and hookups cost more. The America the Beautiful Pass (federal land) is not valid in state parks.
- Dimensions and lengths: many state park sites are limited to 27–40 ft (8–12 m): Pfeiffer Big Sur 32 ft, Morro Bay and San Simeon 35 ft, Montaña de Oro 27 ft, Leo Carrillo and Point Mugu 31 ft, Refugio 30 ft. Point Lobos excludes vehicles over 21 ft, Kirk Creek takes up to 30 ft. Legal maximum height 14 ft (4.27 m). Never drive into car parks, many have limits around 2 m.
- Reservations: state parks up to six months ahead through ReserveCalifornia (rolling window), federal sites through Recreation.gov. Flexibility with dates pays off because sites often come free at short notice. Closed sites are listed by the parks on their websites.
- Weather and season: marine layer and fog hold summer temperatures to 14–16 °C, and the weather is best from September to November. Whale season December to April. Wildfire season July to November, landslides and closures after rain from December to March: always check Caltrans QuickMap.
- Traffic law for visitors: a right turn on red is allowed after a full stop unless a sign forbids it; at all-way stop signs the order of arrival applies. Phones only hands-free at the wheel, open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited (open-container rule). A German licence is enough for tourists, an international one is often recommended. Child-seat and seat-belt rules apply in a motorhome too.
- Site rules: many state parks limit the length of stay (Hearst San Simeon 10 nights in a row, the Santa Cruz parks 30 nights a year combined), generators run only at set times, quiet hours usually 10 pm to 6 am. Fires only in the fire rings on the sites; special rules apply on beaches, and alcohol is prohibited on many beaches. Watch the vehicle and trailer length when booking, it is checked on arrival.
- Emergency: 911; mobile coverage drops out in Big Sur, and emergency call boxes stand only in a few places. Never underestimate sneaker waves and tides, never turn your back on the sea on a beach. Poison oak, ticks and rattlesnakes in the hills.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Levelling ramps, step 2–3 – pitches in Big Sur and on the Gaviota coast are often sloping and the dunes by the sea soft.
- Warm layers and a windproof jacket: the marine layer holds temperatures to 14–16 °C even in July, and at night on the coast often only 8–10 °C.
- Binoculars for grey whales (December to April), sea otters and elephant seals; a tide app or table for tide pools, El Matador and pitches right on the sand.
- Offline maps, a paper map and printed reservations – in Big Sur there is no coverage over long stretches, and credit cards do not work at some sites.
- A water canister (20 l) for sites without drinking water such as Kirk Creek, plus a drinking-water-grade fresh-water hose with a pressure reducer.
- A FasTrak or toll plan for the Golden Gate Bridge, 1-dollar bills for coin showers, small change for dump stations and a copy of the reservations for checks.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
