In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
Around 290 kilometres north of the Golden Gate: redwoods, a lighthouse in the wind, Tomales Bay and the rugged Sonoma Coast as far as the Russian Fort Ross.
The spirit of the route
North of the Golden Gate Bridge the Pacific turns rough and the traffic quieter. Highway 1 snakes down from Mill Valley to the beach at Stinson, the marine layer settles over the hills, and from the sliding door it smells of salt, eucalyptus and wet grass. On Point Reyes tule elk graze on pastures above the surf, and the lighthouse sits beneath a cliff in the wind. On Tomales Bay oyster shells pile up at the docks, in Bodega Bay crab boats lie in the harbour, and further north the Sonoma Coast clings to the shore between grazing land and cliffs. At the end of the route stands Fort Ross, the Russian settlement of 1812, built of redwood timbers. The coast rewards patience, early starts and booking pitches in advance, because legal sites are scarce.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: San Francisco to Stinson Beach (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Cross the Golden Gate Bridge (toll only southbound) north, through Sausalito and Mill Valley onto Highway 1, which winds in hairpins down the slope and meets the coast beyond Muir Woods Park. Two-lane, narrow, 25–45 mph, slow in summer and at weekends. Pure driving time is about 1 hour 15 minutes. Petrol stations in Mill Valley and Marin City, then nothing for a long way.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Muir Woods National Monument: coastal redwoods in Redwood Creek Canyon, trails on boardwalks; a reservation is required for parking and the shuttle (gomuirwoods.com, fee in addition to admission; large vehicles receive only time-limited reservations, and the shuttle runs seasonally; check details on nps.gov). If you arrive without a parking space, use a taxi, bus or walk. The narrow access road is not suitable for motorhomes.
- Stinson Beach (Golden Gate National Recreation Area): a broad sandy beach, cafés in the village, very crowded in summer; the car park at the beach charges fees, and motorhomes have only limited space.
- Mount Tamalpais State Park: Panoramic Highway with trails and views over the Bay; the road is narrow, and motorhomes are not recommended there.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: On this stage itself there are no sites for larger campers. Samuel P. Taylor State Park in the Lagunitas Valley (about a 30-minute drive, Hwy 1 and Sir Francis Drake Blvd) has a campground under redwoods with drinking water and showers; according to the park administration the dump station is out of service, and motorhomes cannot fill a fresh-water tank there (as an alternative the park names the Olema RV Resort). Check vehicle lengths and status beforehand with ReserveCalifornia. Mount Tamalpais State Park (Pantoll) is more for tents and small vehicles.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Marin County overnighting in your vehicle on streets, in car parks and in beach car parks is prohibited; the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and rangers patrol. There is no legal free camping, not even near the beaches.
- Insider tip for campers
- On Highway 1 between Mill Valley and Stinson Beach watch for tight bends, cyclists and a lack of hard shoulder; long vehicles are at a disadvantage. Drive early in the morning and settle the parking question beforehand. For Muir Woods a parking space or a shuttle ticket is needed; without a reservation there is no access by car.
2Stage 2: Stinson Beach to Inverness (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Take Highway 1 past Bolinas Lagoon to Olema, then Sir Francis Drake Boulevard west via Point Reyes Station and Inverness on Tomales Bay. Two-lane, winding, 25–45 mph; motorhomes have little room at the narrow points. Pure driving time is about 1 hour 15 minutes. Petrol station in Point Reyes Station, hardly any in Inverness.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Bolinas Lagoon: a lagoon with harbour seals and birds, with a viewpoint on the highway; migratory birds in spring and autumn.
- Point Reyes Station: a small town with bakeries, cheese shops and cafés; parking for larger vehicles on the edge of town.
- Tomales Bay: a long narrow bay with oysters from the docks (Hog Island Oyster Farm and other businesses; check times beforehand), kayak tours and beaches.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Point Reyes National Seashore has hike-in tent sites (Coast, Glen, Sky, Wildcat), but no sites for motorhomes. Samuel P. Taylor State Park lies on the way (see stage 1). In Olema and Inverness private RV parks offer hook-ups (check status and terms beforehand); they book up early in summer and at weekends.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Point Reyes National Seashore and the surrounding area overnighting outside designated sites is prohibited; rangers patrol. The nearest legal dispersed camping lies far inland (Mendocino National Forest).
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel, shop and fill with fresh water in Point Reyes Station before heading onto the peninsula. The road to Inverness is winding and narrow, with few car parks; drive Tomales Bay best in the morning, while the fog is still there.
3Stage 3: Inverness to Tomales (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- Take Sir Francis Drake Boulevard along the coast west to Point Reyes Lighthouse, then back and via Pierce Point Road to Tomales Point, then north via Marshall and Tomales. The roads on the peninsula are narrow, in places without a centre line, 25–45 mph, with livestock at the roadside. Pure driving time is about 3 hours, a full day with stops. There are no petrol stations on the peninsula.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Point Reyes Lighthouse: a lighthouse from 1870 beneath the cliff, reached by about 300 steps; whale watching from December to April, so check the visitor centre and times beforehand. Cold in wind and fog.
- Tule Elk Reserve and Tomales Point Trail: tule elk graze on the meadows at Pierce Point; the trail to the tip is about 9 miles there and back; keep your distance from the animals, especially in the rutting season in late summer.
- Drakes Beach and Chimney Rock: a cliff beach with elephant seals in winter (viewpoint, keep your distance), and wildflowers at Chimney Rock in spring.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: There are no sites for motorhomes on the peninsula. On the north side lie the private RV park in Tomales and Dillon Beach (check status and terms beforehand). The nearest public site is Doran Regional Park near Bodega Bay (see stage 4).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Point Reyes and in Marin and Sonoma counties free camping is prohibited; access roads are closed, and rangers patrol the car parks at night.
- Insider tip for campers
- Motorhomes drive the narrow roads of the peninsula only with patience; in winter at weekends the shuttle to the lighthouse applies (car parks at the visitor centre, check operating times on nps.gov). Set off with a full tank, full water and an offline map, because mobile reception is patchy.
4Stage 4: Tomales to Jenner (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Tomales take Highway 1 along the coast to Bodega Bay, then north to Jenner at the mouth of the Russian River. Two-lane, well built, with wide bends over pastures and dunes; beyond Bodega Bay the road becomes rockier. Pure driving time is about 1 hour 15 minutes. Petrol stations in Bodega Bay, hardly any in Jenner.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Bodega Head: a headland with trails, wildflowers in spring and whale watching; parking at the turning point.
- Bodega Bay: a harbour with fish restaurants; Hitchcock’s “The Birds” (1963) was filmed here, and the school in Bodega is a popular photo stop.
- Goat Rock Beach near Jenner: a beach at the river mouth with harbour seals (pupping season roughly March to August: keep your distance); view of Goat Rock.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Bodega Dunes Campground (Sonoma Coast State Park) near Bodega Bay: pitches behind the dunes, showers, dump station; check vehicle lengths and status beforehand with ReserveCalifornia. Doran Regional Park (Sonoma County Regional Parks) on the spit: pitches with beach and boat ramp, dump station and showers; check terms with the operator. Wright’s Beach (Sonoma Coast State Park) north of Bodega Bay: pitches directly on the beach, without its own dump station (the station at Bodega Dunes Campground can be shared), vehicle length limited (about 31 ft), booked up early in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Sonoma Coast free camping on streets, in car parks and in beach car parks is prohibited; checks are frequent. Dispersed camping exists only inland (Mendocino National Forest), with steep access roads.
- Insider tip for campers
- Bodega Bay is the only larger supply town: petrol station, supermarket and water. Book beach pitches early (up to six months in advance with ReserveCalifornia). Fog is frequent in summer, and nights are below 10 °C.
5Stage 5: Jenner to Salt Point (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- Take Highway 1 north: beyond Jenner the road climbs above the coast, winds in hairpins and cliffs to Fort Ross, then on north to Salt Point State Park. Two-lane, narrow, steep at the cliff edges, 25–45 mph, with few pull-outs. Pure driving time is about 1 hour. Mobile reception drops out, and there are no petrol stations until Gualala.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Fort Ross State Historic Park: a reconstructed Russian settlement of 1812 built of redwood timbers, with a chapel, blockhouses and a museum; check admission and opening hours beforehand with California State Parks.
- Salt Point State Park: sandstone cliffs with hollows (tafoni), tide pools and trails; divers use the underwater reserve.
- Kruse Rhododendron State Natural Reserve: a forest with rhododendrons, flowering in spring; short trails, limited parking.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Salt Point State Park: Woodside Campground and Gerstle Cove Campground with simple pitches, drinking water and toilets; according to State Parks motorhomes up to 36 ft and trailers up to 31 ft, so check status beforehand with ReserveCalifornia. Stillwater Cove Regional Park (Sonoma County Regional Parks) lies further north with small pitches, more for short vehicles. Reservations up to six months ahead.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the coast free camping is prohibited. The nearest legal dispersed camping lies inland; access roads are steep, so note fire bans.
- Insider tip for campers
- On Highway 1 north of Jenner, vehicles over about 30 ft are not recommended; check Caltrans notices and road status before setting off. Fill up with fresh water and use the dump station in Bodega Bay before heading into the lonely stretch.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Overnighting in your vehicle outside designated sites is prohibited almost everywhere on California’s north coast; Marin and Sonoma counties as well as the National Park Service and State Parks patrol at night, and fines are often in the three-figure dollar range.
- Dispersed camping is allowed on National Forest and BLM land, mostly for up to 14 days; in this region such land lies inland (Mendocino National Forest), not on the coast. In the wildfire season fire bans apply, and a California Campfire Permit may be needed; check closures beforehand.
- Harvest Hosts and similar programmes allow overnighting at farms and wineries for a membership fee; note the advance notice and the host’s rules.
- Many supermarket car parks prohibit overnighting; ask beforehand. Caltrans rest areas allow only limited parking.
- Wildlife: keep at least 50 yards (45 m) from harbour seals, sea lions and elephant seals, and on Point Reyes also from tule elk; feeding is prohibited. Mountain lions and rattlesnakes live in the hills; poison oak and ticks are common.
- Useful apps: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, Recreation.gov and ReserveCalifornia (State Parks up to six months in advance). Road conditions via Caltrans QuickMap, fire status from Cal Fire.
- If you cannot get a pitch, switch to county parks (Doran, Spring Lake), private RV parks in Olema, Bodega Bay and Tomales, or walk-in sites; reception can often tell you about short-notice vacancies.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations: Bodega Dunes and Doran Regional Park offer disposal, and they are rare in Marin; sanidumps.com and the apps list stations, which usually charge a fee at petrol stations.
- Tap water is drinkable; at some State Parks there are only fresh-water points at the entrance, so take a drinking-water-grade hose and a canister. Filter lake water before drinking.
- Never discharge grey water onto the ground; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations. Electricity on a few pitches at 30 or 50 A.
- Propane at petrol stations and gas dealers in San Rafael, Petaluma and Santa Rosa; European gas cylinders are usually not refilled.
- Shopping: supermarkets in San Rafael and Petaluma; in Point Reyes Station, Bodega Bay and Jenner only small shops with high prices.
- Fuel: petrol stations in Mill Valley, Point Reyes Station, Bodega Bay and Gualala; on Point Reyes and between Jenner and Gualala there are none.
- Laundry and rubbish: coin launderettes in the larger towns; campgrounds have rubbish and recycling containers, some wildlife-proof.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: Highway 1 mostly 25 to 55, in towns 25 to 35; with a trailer the maximum under CVC 22406 is 55 mph. Slow vehicles must pull over under CVC 21656 once five or more vehicles are following.
- Tolls and fees: Golden Gate Bridge only southbound, electronic; payment up to 30 days before or 48 hours after, so check current amounts and rental companies’ service fees beforehand. Day-use fees in State Parks mostly 5 to 10 USD per vehicle.
- Dimensions and lengths: many pitches are limited to about 27 to 35 ft; check length details with ReserveCalifornia and Recreation.gov before booking. Maximum height 14 ft (4.27 m); multi-storey car parks often have limits of around 2 m. Highway 1 in Marin and on the Sonoma Coast is narrow for long vehicles.
- Reservations: State Parks up to six months in advance via ReserveCalifornia; Muir Woods needs a reservation for parking or the shuttle; Point Reyes hike-in tent sites via Recreation.gov.
- Weather and season: the marine layer and fog hold summer temperatures to 14 to 18 °C; the weather is best from September to November. Whale season December to April, wildflowers in spring, wildfire season roughly July to November.
- Traffic law: turning right on red after a full stop is permitted where no sign prohibits it; mobile phones at the wheel only hands-free; open alcohol containers in the vehicle prohibited. A German driving licence is sufficient, and an international one is often recommended.
- Campsite rules: quiet hours usually 10 pm to 6 am, generators only at set times, fires only in fire rings; alcohol banned on many beaches. Vehicle and trailer length are checked on arrival.
- Emergency: 911. Mobile reception drops out on the coast and in canyons; use an offline map. Never underestimate sneaker waves and tides, and never walk onto the beach with your back to the sea.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Windproof jacket, hat and warm layers: the marine layer holds temperatures to 14 to 18 °C even in July, and about 8 °C at night.
- Binoculars and a spotting scope for grey whales (December to April), elephant seals, tule elk and migratory birds on Tomales Bay.
- Levelling ramps for sloping pitches on coastal slopes and dunes.
- Offline maps and a paper map: on Point Reyes and the Sonoma Coast mobile reception often fails.
- Water canister (20 l) and a drinking-water-grade hose for pitches without a connection.
- Small change and 1-dollar bills for coin showers, parking meters and dump stations, plus printouts of the reservations.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
