In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Bastia around Cap Corse, through the Balagne and past the red rocks of Piana to Ajaccio, Bonifacio and, over the Bavella Needles, to the mountain town of Corte: about 800 kilometres of island where an average of 100 kilometres a day is already a lot.
The spirit of the route
Corsica greets you with the smell of the maquis before the ferry has even docked: rockrose, myrtle, wild fennel. After that, the road sets the pace. On Cap Corse the D80 clings to the cliffs, Genoese towers watch over the bays, and at Nonza the rock drops sheer to a grey beach. In the Balagne, villages sit on granite knolls above olive groves, and near Piana the Calanche glow orange-red above the deep blue gulf. From your sliding door you see citadels against the evening light, wisps of mist between the Bavella Needles in the morning, and, again and again, semi-wild pigs and cows on the tarmac. This island does not forgive haste: narrow hairpins, rock overhangs, oncoming coaches. If you travel compactly, start early and sleep on campsites rather than parking on the beach, you will experience a mountain range in the sea that looks different every day.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Bastia to Saint-Florent (via Cap Corse) (approx. 120 km)
- The drive
- From Bastia take the D80 north; on the east coast of Cap Corse it is wide and easy to drive: Erbalunga, Sisco, Luri, Macinaggio. Cross the Col de la Serra to the west side near Centuri, and then the character changes: the D80 is narrow, with rock overhangs, short pinch points and low walls high above the sea, running via Pino, Canari and Nonza down to Saint-Florent. Allow a good 2.5 hours for the west side without stops, and a full day in total. Drive the loop clockwise: that way the west coast is on the mountain side.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Erbalunga: fishing village with a Genoese tower on a rocky spur, almost free of visitors early in the morning.
- Moulin Mattei on the Col de la Serra, with a view of Centuri, the island of Giraglia and both sides of the cape.
- Nonza: church tower and Genoese tower on a rocky spur above the grey pebble beach left behind by the Canari asbestos mine; about 450 steps down to the beach.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Saint-Florent several campsites lie along the bay, for example Camping Acqua-Dolce right on the beach (electricity, sanitary facilities, service point), plus U Pezzo and Kalliste within walking distance of the harbour. If you want to split the stage: Camping A Casaïola near Sisco or La Pietra in Pietracorbara on the east coast of the cape, or Camping U Stazzu near Macinaggio. Many sites are open only from spring to autumn, so check the season in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Cap Corse, lay-bys and beach car parks usually have motorhome prohibition signs or height barriers; wild camping is banned across Corsica. One legal alternative is the municipal aire de camping-car at Marina d’Albo (Ogliastro) on the west coast; check facilities and fees in the apps beforehand. At Ersa in the north there is a pitch that can be reserved (Tollare). Around Macinaggio–Barcaggio there are areas belonging to the Conservatoire du littoral where overnight parking is not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Sentier des Douaniers from Macinaggio to Barcaggio is one of the finest coastal paths on the island; in summer set off early because of the heat. Petrol stations are rare on the west side of the cape, so fill up in Bastia or Macinaggio. In Nonza do not park in the village but at the designated areas on its edge; the road through is narrow.
2Stage 2: Saint-Florent to Calvi (via L’Île-Rousse and the Balagne) (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Take the D81 through the Désert des Agriates: a winding but properly surfaced road through maquis and granite humps, with no settlements and the occasional view of the sea. At Lozari join the T30 to L’Île-Rousse. From there continue via the Balagne villages of Corbara, Pigna, Sant’Antonino and Lumio to Calvi. The village roads are narrow; with large vehicles drive only as far as the car parks at the village entrances. About 2 hours’ driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Plages de Saleccia and du Lotu in the Désert des Agriates: in summer by boat shuttle from the harbour of Saint-Florent; the tracks there are not for motorhomes.
- Sant’Antonino: granite village on a hilltop with all-round views over the Balagne to the sea; car park below the village, and into the village on foot only.
- Citadel of Calvi on the headland, in the evening with a view of the bay and the Monte Cinto massif.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Around the pine woods on the bay of Calvi there are several campsites, for example La Clé des Champs, Bella Vista or Paduella on the southern edge of town, all with electricity and sanitary facilities and within walking or cycling distance of the old town. Between L’Île-Rousse and Calvi there are further sites near Algajola and Lumio. In high season book early.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Most of the Désert des Agriates belongs to the Conservatoire du littoral: sleeping in vehicles, camping and fires are prohibited there, and the tracks to the beaches are partly closed or passable only by off-road vehicle. In the Balagne and around Calvi, numerous municipal arrêtés turn away motorhomes staying overnight in public car parks, so heed the signs.
- Insider tip for campers
- In L’Île-Rousse the covered market is worth a visit in the morning for brocciu, coppa and fruit. L’Île-Rousse station is a stop on the narrow-gauge railway along the coast to Calvi, a relaxed way to leave the motorhome on the campsite. Drive the Balagne loop in the morning; in the afternoon tour coaches fill the village car parks.
3Stage 3: Calvi to Porto (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Head south on the D81B along the coast, over the La Revellata peninsula to Galéria: narrow, with many blind bends and sections without guardrails, and goats and cows on the road. The D81 through the interior is hardly any wider. From Galéria, cross the Col de Palmarella and the Col de la Croix, with wide views over the Gulf of Girolata, to Porto. Allow 2.5 to 3 hours for the stretch; with large vehicles use the passing places and wait for oncoming traffic.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pointe de la Revellata with its lighthouse west of Calvi, a short walk from the road.
- Col de la Croix: footpath down to Girolata (about 1.5 hours each way); the village can be reached only on foot or by boat.
- Gulf of Porto with the Scandola nature reserve (UNESCO World Heritage Site), by excursion boat from Porto or Galéria.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the valley behind Porto several campsites lie side by side, for example Les Oliviers by the river (with pool), Sole e Vista above the village and Funtana a l’Ora on the road to Évisa, each with electricity and sanitary facilities; ask on site about service facilities. Season usually April to October.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around the Gulf of Porto there are protected areas (Scandola, Girolata, Calanche) and forest; sleeping anywhere other than on campsites is prohibited, and when the wildfire risk is high, massifs are closed by prefectural order. Viewpoint car parks on the passes are intended for short stops only.
- Insider tip for campers
- Boat trips to Scandola are calmest when they start in the morning, and in a west wind they are cancelled. If you want to go from Porto straight to Corte, via Évisa, the Col de Vergio and the D84 through the Scala di Santa Regina there is a spectacular shortcut, but the gorge is narrow, with rock overhangs and hardly any passing places; it is unsuitable for large motorhomes, so heed the signs at the approaches.
4Stage 4: Porto to Ajaccio (via the Calanche de Piana and Cargèse) (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Just beyond Porto, the D81 runs through the Calanche de Piana: about 10 kilometres of narrow, winding road between red granite formations, with rock outcrops over the carriageway and low walls on the valley side. After that it continues via Piana and Cargèse through hill country to the Gulf of Sagone and on a wider road to Ajaccio. About 2 hours’ pure driving time, considerably more because of the narrow sections and photo stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Calanche de Piana: short walk to the Château Fort, and the rock formation “Tête de Chien” beside the road.
- Capu Rossu southwest of Piana: hike to the Genoese tower of Turghjo high above the sea (about 3 hours there and back, no shade), land of the Conservatoire du littoral.
- Cargèse with its Greek Catholic and Roman Catholic churches, which face each other above the harbour.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Ajaccio, Camping Les Mimosas in the north of the city, quiet and with a bus connection to the centre, or Camping Barbicaja on the Route des Sanguinaires, close to the sea. Electricity and sanitary facilities are available; ask on site about service facilities.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Calanche, on the narrow section between Moulin and Tête de Chien, stopping and parking are prohibited for all vehicles, except at a few designated places such as the Roches Bleues. At Capu Rossu and the Pointe de la Parata the rule is: daytime parking yes, overnight no. Around Piana, access to the massif is closed when the fire risk is extreme.
- Insider tip for campers
- By order of the Collectivité de Corse, in previous summers (first in 2018) alternating one-way traffic applied between Moulin and Tête de Chien every day from 10 am to 5 pm for motorhomes, coaches, lorries and long vehicles; cars without a trailer or caravan were exempt. Whether and when this rule applies in 2026 has not been confirmed: heed the signs, and ideally drive through before 9 am. In Ajaccio, fill up and shop cheaply at the big supermarkets on the edge of town; avoid the old town in the motorhome, as the multi-storey car parks have height limits.
5Stage 5: Ajaccio to Bonifacio (via Sartène) (approx. 135 km)
- The drive
- Take the T40 over the Col de Saint-Georges to Propriano, then up to Sartène and south through a wide, barren granite landscape with cork oaks. By Corsican standards the road is well built, but winding; before Propriano and between Sartène and Roccapina there are few places to overtake. About 2.5 hours’ driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Filitosa: prehistoric menhir statues in an olive grove, a short detour near Propriano.
- Sartène: sombre granite town with narrow lanes; park on the edge of town.
- Lion de Roccapina: rock formation above the bay, with a viewpoint right on the T40.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping L’Araguina lies at the entrance to Bonifacio, only a few minutes’ walk from the harbour, the most practical solution for visiting the town. Quieter and with more space: Camping Pian del Fosse and Campo di Liccia on the road towards Santa Manza, each with electricity and sanitary facilities.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): According to the 2026 town plan of the commune of Bonifacio, parking motorhomes is expressly prohibited by day and by night; on authorised vehicle parking areas they may stand only by day, unoccupied and for no more than seven days in a row. Overnight stays are provided for on campsites only. In the south there are numerous coastal areas belonging to the Conservatoire du littoral and the Bouches de Bonifacio nature reserve: no free-standing.
- Insider tip for campers
- Leave the motorhome on the campsite and walk to the upper town; the tourist office knows which car parks currently admit motorhomes. The footpath to Cap Pertusato over the chalk cliffs, with a view of Sardinia, leads past the lighthouse. At the harbour, boats offer trips to the caves and the Lavezzi Islands.
6Stage 6: Bonifacio to Porto-Vecchio (via Rondinara and Palombaggia) (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- Take the T10 north, with detours on narrow dead-end roads to the bays of Rondinara and Santa Giulia. Before Porto-Vecchio follow the Route de Palombaggia along the sea, winding and heavily used in summer. A short stage, but plenty of time by the water.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Plage de la Rondinara: almost perfectly circular bay with turquoise water, pay-and-display car park.
- Plage de Palombaggia with umbrella pines and red rocks; in July and August arrive before 10 am.
- Old town of Porto-Vecchio on the hill above the salt pans.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping U Pirellu above Palombaggia, in the shade of cork oaks, or the sites on the Golfe de Porto-Vecchio such as Golfo di Sogno on the bay north of the town and Arutoli on the way towards L’Ospedale, all with electricity and sanitary facilities. In August be sure to book.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The beach car parks at Palombaggia, Santa Giulia and Rondinara are charged by day, and at night motorhomes are not tolerated there; the police carry out regular checks in summer. Wild camping on the beach is expressly prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Porto-Vecchio fill up the tank, shop and top up with water: on the next stage through the uplands there are hardly any petrol stations. Do not use your gas bottles right down to the last day: French exchange bottles are available at many petrol stations and supermarkets, but German bottles are not exchanged, and LPG pumps for refilling are rare.
7Stage 7: Porto-Vecchio to Corte (via the Col de Bavella) (approx. 175 km)
- The drive
- Take the D368 through cork oak and pine forest up to the L’Ospedale reservoir, then on to Zonza and along the D268 to the Col de Bavella (about 1,220 m). The mountain roads are narrow, with tight hairpins and animals on the road; on the east side, on the way down to Solenzara, the D268 is very narrow in places along rock faces. From Solenzara take the T10 along the east coast to Aléria and the T50 through the Tavignano valley to Corte. About 4.5 hours’ pure driving time, so start early.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Piscia di Gallu waterfall near L’Ospedale, about 45 minutes’ walk each way.
- Aiguilles de Bavella: granite needles above the pass; short hike to the Trou de la Bombe, a rock window in the ridge.
- Aléria: Roman excavations and an archaeological museum in the Genoese Fort Matra.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Corte, at the start of the Restonica valley, are Camping Alivetu and Chez Bartho, plus U Sognu on the edge of town, all within walking distance of the old town; Camping Santa Barbara on the road south is larger and has service facilities. If you want to split the stage: Camping La Rivière and the municipal site in Zonza.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Bavella lies within the Parc naturel régional de Corse; sleeping anywhere other than on campsites is prohibited, and the car parks at the pass are pay-and-display day car parks in summer. When the wildfire risk is high, trails and massifs may be closed; open fires and barbecues are banned in the forest all year round.
- Insider tip for campers
- Restrictions for long and heavy vehicles may be signposted on the D268; check the signs at the junctions in Zonza and Solenzara, and with long vehicles, if in doubt, divert via the coast. Between Porto-Vecchio and the east coast there is practically no petrol station. Semi-wild pigs and cows at the picnic spots are after food: do not feed them, and keep doors closed.
8Stage 8: Corte to Bastia (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- After a morning in Corte and the Restonica valley, take the T20 through the Golo valley to Ponte Leccia and on to Casamozza, then the T11 to Bastia. Wide, well-built roads; before Bastia there are often queues at ferry times. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Citadel of Corte on the rock above the confluence of the Tavignano and the Restonica, with the Musée de la Corse.
- Restonica valley: since the storms of November 2023 the road above Tragone has been destroyed, and from Camping Tuani it is closed to all vehicles during the shuttle season (2026 from May to September); the bus line C13 then runs from Corte station into the valley. You can reach lakes Melu and Capitellu only on foot, and the ascent from Tragone takes more than two hours longer than it used to.
- Old town and Terra Vecchia of Bastia at the old harbour.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping San Damiano at the Lido de la Marana south of Bastia, between the beach and the Biguglia lagoon, with electricity, sanitary facilities and service point, convenient for a night before the ferry. In Bastia itself there is no site near the port.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the port area of Bastia, staying overnight outside the waiting lanes for your booked ferry is not permitted; in the city the usual municipal bans apply. The Biguglia lagoon is a nature reserve.
- Insider tip for campers
- Check the timetable of line C13 in advance on the website of the Collectivité de Corse: in summer 2026 service was interrupted at times and ran normally again from 1 August. Leave the motorhome on the campsite in Corte; the station can be reached on foot from the sites. Before the ferry, empty the grey water and cassette at the campsite and turn off the gas; running the fridge on gas is not permitted on board.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- French law distinguishes between “stationnement” and “camping”: a motorhome counts as a vehicle and may park anywhere cars may park, including overnight, as long as nothing projects outwards: no awning, chairs, tables, supports or levelling blocks, and no grey water on the ground. Municipalities may restrict motorhome parking by arrêté municipal; prohibition signs and height barriers are the norm in Corsica.
- Wild camping is generally prohibited in Corsica and strictly checked in summer, especially on beaches, in dunes and in coastal car parks. On land belonging to the Conservatoire du littoral (Désert des Agriates, Capu Rossu, Macinaggio–Barcaggio and many stretches of coast in the south), overnight stays, camping and fires are prohibited; the same applies in the Scandola and Bouches de Bonifacio nature reserves.
- Wildfire: open fires and barbecues outside designated sites are prohibited in forest and maquis. When the risk is high, the prefecture closes individual massifs (such as Piana or Bavella) to pedestrians and vehicles; check the danger level daily on the websites of the prefectures of Corse-du-Sud and Haute-Corse.
- You can sleep legally on campsites (usually open from April to October) and on the few aires de camping-car. Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact, Caramaps; check that reviews are up to date, as municipal arrêtés change often.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service points are called “aire de services” or “borne”; the stations work with coins, tokens or card. Outside the campsites the network in Corsica is thin; many sites also let passing travellers empty their tanks for a fee.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at service stations; dumping in the countryside is punished as an environmental offence and is a main reason for new motorhome bans.
- Tap water is drinkable unless otherwise indicated (“eau non potable”). In high summer there may be water-saving measures in small communities.
- Gas: German bottles are not exchanged; French bottles (Butagaz, Primagaz, Antargaz) need their own connection. LPG filling stations are rare in Corsica, so arrive with full bottles or a full tank and bring an adapter set (Dish/Euronozzle). On the ferry, gas bottles must be closed; whether and how many bottles you may carry is decided by each shipping company, so ask before booking.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits for motorhomes up to 3.5 t: outside built-up areas 80 km/h (Corsica has not adopted the 90 km/h limits reintroduced in many places on the mainland; heed the signs), on roads with physically separated carriageways 110 km/h, in each case lower in rain. Over 3.5 t: outside built-up areas 80, on separated carriageways 100, on motorways 110 km/h; combinations with a permissible gross weight of more than 3.5 t are subject to their own, in places lower, limits. There are no motorways or tolls in Corsica; the main axes are called Routes territoriales (T10, T11, T20, T30, T40, T50).
- Vehicles over 3.5 t, including heavy motorhomes, have had to carry the “Angles morts” blind-spot stickers on both sides and at the rear since 2021; without the stickers you risk a fine of €135.
- Ferries from the mainland or Italy arrive in Bastia, Ajaccio, L’Île-Rousse and Calvi, and also in Porto-Vecchio and Propriano. Fares depend on vehicle length and height: give exact dimensions including rear carriers and roof fittings, otherwise you risk extra charges. Book early for July and August.
- Road widths: the D80 on the west side of Cap Corse, the D81 through the Calanche de Piana, the D81B Calvi–Galéria, the D84 through the Scala di Santa Regina and the D268 over Bavella are narrow, in places with rock overhangs. Heed length, width and weight restrictions at the junctions; in summer alternating one-way traffic may apply to motorhomes. Compact vehicles have a clear advantage here.
- Fuel: in the interior of the island and on the west side of Cap Corse there are only a few petrol stations with limited opening hours; pumps do not always accept foreign cards. Refuel when the tank is half full, most cheaply at the supermarkets near Bastia, Ajaccio and Porto-Vecchio.
- Alcohol: 0.5 per mille, 0.2 for novice drivers. Mobile phones at the wheel and headphones or headsets are prohibited. Keep a high-visibility vest within reach and a warning triangle on board. There is no low-emission zone in Corsica; the low-emission zones (ZFE) on the mainland, for example in Marseille and Nice, remain in force, so check the Crit’Air sticker for the journey there and back.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- “Angles morts” stickers (for over 3.5 t) and vehicle dimensions in writing: for the ferry booking, length and height including add-ons count.
- Gas adapter set and two full bottles: there are hardly any LPG stations on the island, and German bottles are not exchanged.
- Spare water canister (10–20 l): service facilities outside the campsites are rare.
- Sturdy walking boots, head torch and 2 litres of water per person: Capu Rossu, Girolata, Bavella and the Restonica valley lead over granite and through shadeless maquis.
- Small change and cash for beach car parks, boat shuttles and village shops; not every mountain petrol station accepts foreign cards.
- Insect screens for the windows and mosquito repellent: on the east coast and at the Biguglia lagoon, mosquitoes are numerous in summer.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
