In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
A week in the wildest high country of the Rocky Mountains: bison in front of the bonnet, steaming ground by your pitch and cowboy history to finish.
The spirit of the route
The Teton Range rises about 2,000 metres straight out of the sagebrush plain with no foothills; in the morning the peaks are mirrored in the Snake River while moose stand in the mist. Further north a different world begins: the ground steams, bubbles and hisses, turquoise springs fade into orange bacterial mats, and roughly every 90 minutes Old Faithful shoots into the sky. Traffic jams here come not from roadworks but from bison herds ambling across the road. In the Lamar Valley early risers sit at the roadside with spotting scopes, looking for wolves. In the evening it smells of pine resin and sulphur, and it gets bitterly cold, even in July. At the end the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway leads over the Absaroka Mountains down to Cody, where the Wild West lives on in the museum. Autumn shortens the season noticeably: campgrounds close and the passes can see snow – check dates and road conditions beforehand.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Jackson to Grand Teton National Park (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- Head north on US-26/89/191 across the sagebrush flats of Jackson Hole, then via Moose and the Teton Park Road along the foot of the mountains. Flat and easy to read, with plenty of pull-outs; 55 mph by day, and at night the main road is limited to 45 mph because of wildlife crossing. About 1.5 hours of pure driving time, but a full day’s programme. The park does not accept cash; the entrance fee (35 US dollars per vehicle, valid 7 days) is paid by card.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Mormon Row on Antelope Flats Road: the T. A. Moulton Barn in front of the Tetons, best in morning light. With photo stops allow about 45 minutes; the parking strip is small and fills up at sunrise.
- Schwabacher Landing: beaver ponds on the Snake River in which the Teton Range is mirrored, best in calm conditions in the first hour after sunrise. The access is a short gravel track, and the walk takes about an hour.
- Jenny Lake with the boat shuttle to the west shore: from there about 800 m to Hidden Falls and roughly 400 m further to Inspiration Point. The crossing is charged and takes a good 10 minutes; operation depends on ice and season – the trail around the lake is the alternative.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: All campgrounds in the park can only be booked in advance through Recreation.gov (rolling six months ahead); there is no first come, first served. Gros Ventre (NPS) on the river of the same name: over 300 sites, 36 with electricity, dump station, vehicles up to 45 ft, in 2026 from late April to 10 October. Signal Mountain on Jackson Lake with a view of Mount Moran: 80 sites, 24 with 30/50 A, dump station, showers, only up to 30 ft, in 2026 from 8 May to 11 October, generators 8 am–8 pm. Full hookups are only offered by Colter Bay RV Park (up to 45 ft including tow vehicle, open until about early October).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Sleeping outside campgrounds is prohibited in the park. The Shadow Mountain Dispersed Area in the Bridger-Teton National Forest on the eastern edge: 51 numbered sites with steel fire rings and toilets, no permit needed, first come, first served; from 1 May to Labor Day a maximum of 5 days within 30 days, food only inside a hard-sided vehicle, camping away from the marked sites is prohibited. The access is gravel and not recommended for long motorhomes. North of the park the Grassy Lake Road in the Caribou-Targhee National Forest has about 20 free sites (check the current status beforehand).
- Insider tip for campers
- The Signal Mountain Summit Road (8 km, about 240 m of climb) is closed to trailers and motorhomes; take the Jackson Lake Overlook instead. Bear spray is sold in Jackson; the FAA does not allow most cans on aircraft because of their size. Food, cool box and cookware belong in the vehicle, never on the table. Fill up and shop in Jackson before heading north; prices in the park are higher.
2Stage 2: Grand Teton to West Yellowstone (approx. 160 km)
- The drive
- Follow the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway to the south entrance of Yellowstone (separate entrance fee; the Grand Teton ticket is not valid there), through the Lewis River Canyon and over the Continental Divide at Craig Pass (2,518 m) to West Thumb on Yellowstone Lake, then on to Old Faithful and along the Firehole River via Madison to West Yellowstone. Maximum speed in the park is 45 mph; a long day with stops. According to the NPS, waits of up to 15 minutes were expected in 2026 at the Firehole River Bridge, about 2.4 km south of Old Faithful, from August to mid-September; current notices at nps.gov/yell.
- Highlights & must-sees
- West Thumb Geyser Basin: hot springs and mud pots right on the shore of Yellowstone Lake, a boardwalk loop of about 1 km, roughly 45 minutes. It steams most in the morning, when the air is still cold.
- Old Faithful and the Upper Geyser Basin: the eruption comes about every 90 minutes, and the prediction is posted at the visitor centre (open until 31 October). Allow two to three hours so you can also walk the loop to Morning Glory Pool.
- Grand Prismatic Spring: from the boardwalk in the Midway Geyser Basin or, better, from the Overlook Trail (1.9 km there and back, 1–2 hours) at the Fairy Falls parking area, about 1.6 km south of the Midway Geyser Basin. The car park is very small; come early or after 5 pm.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Madison Campground in the park at the confluence of the Firehole and Gibbon, 276 sites, vehicles up to 60 ft, no hookups, dump station, 38 dollars, in 2026 until 17 October; bison and elk often wander through. All sites must be reserved in advance, bookable up to six months ahead. In high summer (1 July to Labor Day) a maximum of 14 nights is allowed across NPS and Xanterra campgrounds. Grant Village (429 sites, up to 50 ft, 45 dollars) already closes on 26 September in 2026. Outside the park: Baker’s Hole (Forest Service) on the Madison River, about 5 km north of West Yellowstone, 73 sites, some with electricity, drinking water, reservations via Recreation.gov, a few sites without reservation, season May to September.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Sleeping outside campgrounds is prohibited in the park, including in pull-outs. In the Custer Gallatin National Forest around Hebgen Lake dispersed camping on forest roads is allowed: at most 16 consecutive days at the same site and 32 days per calendar year. From 1 March to 1 December 2026 the Food Storage Order applies: food, rubbish and scented items only in a hard-sided vehicle, in a bear-resistant container or hung at least 3 m high and 1.2 m from the trunk. Violations can lead to civil liability.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up at Old Faithful (upper station open until 18 October in 2026, card pump round the clock) or in West Yellowstone; Grant Village has no attended service after 20 September, but according to the NPS the card pump runs all year. Dump stations open to non-guests in West Yellowstone are at Yellowstone Grizzly RV Park (about 20 dollars), Yellowstone Holiday (about 5 dollars) and Kirkwood Resort (about 10 dollars); ask about prices and season beforehand. Most park roads close on 31 October 2026 according to media reports (check beforehand).
3Stage 3: West Yellowstone to Canyon Village (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- From West Yellowstone to the west entrance, then via Madison and Norris to the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The park road is two-lane and winding, with a 45 mph limit; animal jams are normal. A detour into the Hayden Valley south of Canyon costs around 60 minutes there and back. Snow is possible up to 2,400 m even in September. Since 22 September the southern loop from Canyon Junction via Norris and Gibbon Meadows to Madison has been getting new road markings; waits are possible.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Norris Geyser Basin: Porcelain Basin and Back Basin with Steamboat Geyser, the tallest active geyser in the world; it erupts very irregularly, at intervals of weeks to years. The loop takes one to two hours, and the museum closes on 3 October in 2026.
- Artist Point on South Rim Drive and the Brink viewpoints on North Rim Drive: the Lower Falls plunge 94 m into the yellow canyon. Doing both rims takes two to three hours; the light is best in the early morning.
- Hayden Valley: an open river plain with bison herds, elk and, with luck, grizzlies, best at dawn and in the late afternoon. Stop only in the pull-outs and stay in the vehicle if you meet wildlife.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Canyon Campground in the pine forest: 272 sites, vehicles up to 40 ft, no hookups, dump station, showers and laundry nearby, 45 dollars, in 2026 until 19 September. On Yellowstone Lake: Bridge Bay (431 sites, up to 60 ft, 38 dollars, until 13 September) and Fishing Bridge RV Park with full hookups (310 sites, hard-sided vehicles only, no tents, vehicles up to 95 ft, 94 dollars, until 17 October). Sites are assigned only at check-in; check-in 1 pm, check-out 11 am, quiet hours 10 pm–6 am. Generators are allowed only from 8 am to 8 pm at RV sites.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Any overnight stay outside the campgrounds is prohibited in the park, including in pull-outs; rangers patrol at night. If Canyon is full or, as after 19 September, closed, move to Fishing Bridge or drive back to West Yellowstone (about 2 hours) for the National Forest sites around Hebgen Lake.
- Insider tip for campers
- Keep at least 100 yards (91 m) from bears and wolves and 25 yards (23 m) from bison and elk. In animal jams stay in the vehicle, honk if a bear approaches the car, and never stop in the middle of the road. Stay on the boardwalks: the thin crust can cover boiling water, and bathing in hot springs is prohibited. The Canyon pump sells fuel round the clock by card, and the store closes on 31 October. Between Fishing Bridge and Bridge Bay waits of up to 15 minutes are announced until 1 November.
4Stage 4: Canyon Village to Gardiner (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Over Dunraven Pass (2,700 m) to Tower–Roosevelt, then across the Blacktail Plateau down to Mammoth Hot Springs and on to the north entrance at Gardiner. Steep sections, tight bends and long descents: go down in a low gear. The Canyon–Tower section closes on 12 October in 2026 according to the announcement (snow is possible earlier). About 2 hours of pure driving time, half to a full day with stops. Two construction sites slow you down: the Yellowstone River Bridge at Tower Junction (waits of up to 30 minutes, until November) and the Gardner River High Bridge 0.8 km south-east of Mammoth.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Tower Fall: a 40 m waterfall; the short path to the viewpoint takes ten minutes. Access to the foot of the fall has been closed for years; check the status at nps.gov.
- Lamar Valley as a detour east from Tower Junction: at dawn wolf watchers stand with spotting scopes at the pull-outs, and bison cross the road. Allow about two hours there and back.
- Mammoth Hot Springs with the travertine terraces and boardwalks: about an hour; elk often graze between the houses in Mammoth. The Roosevelt Arch at the entrance in Gardiner is a short photo stop.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Mammoth Campground (NPS) on the slope above the Gardner River, 82 sites, vehicles up to 30 ft, no hookups, open all year, 25 dollars; from 15 October to 1 April first come, first served, otherwise reservations via Recreation.gov. On the way: Tower Fall (31 sites, up to 30 ft, until 27 September). Outside the park: Eagle Creek Campground (Custer Gallatin National Forest) about 3 km north-east of Gardiner on Jardine Road, 6,100 ft altitude, 20 sites, vehicles up to 48 ft, 15 dollars (double site 30), open all year, vault toilets, bear boxes, no drinking water and no hookups; in high season reservable via Recreation.gov, the remaining sites go quickly.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Prohibited in the park. In the Custer Gallatin National Forest around Gardiner dispersed camping on forest roads is allowed (16 days in a row, 32 per year). The Food Storage Order applies there until 1 December 2026; fires only in existing rings and fully extinguished. The forest tracks are partly rough – avoid them after rain or snow.
- Insider tip for campers
- In 2026 the Gardner River High Bridge is narrowed from April to October to a single lane only about 3 m wide: 15 mph, waits of up to 15 minutes, around the clock. Vehicles over 8 ft 6 in (2.59 m) wide, 75 ft (22.9 m) long or 80,000 lbs are excluded. Check your rental vehicle; work continues after the winter break from mid-March 2027. Since the 2022 flood the approach between Gardiner and Mammoth has used a temporary road; the NPS is planning a permanent north approach (as of January 2026). Mammoth has a card fuel pump and a year-round store; the Tower-Roosevelt station also has a card pump.
5Stage 5: Gardiner to Cody (Chief Joseph Scenic Byway) (approx. 260 km)
- The drive
- Back through Mammoth and over Tower Junction (both construction sites again) through the Lamar Valley to the north-east entrance and on to Cooke City, then east on US-212 and on WY-296 over Dead Indian Pass (2,460 m) and the Absaroka Mountains, finally on WY-120 to Cody. The Chief Joseph Scenic Byway is about 74 km long, paved, with switchbacks and climbs; WYDOT gives a maximum grade of 5–6 %. About 5 hours of pure driving time, a full day with stops. Leave large trailers at the campground; there is fuel in Cooke City, Crandall and at the Painter Store.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lamar Valley and Soda Butte at dawn: wolves, bison, grizzlies and pronghorn; in the morning dozens of spotting scopes often stand at the pull-outs. After a wolf sighting you may only move on step by step.
- Sunlight Basin and the Sunlight Creek Bridge, the highest bridge in Wyoming: 111 m long and 87 m above the gorge, built in 1985. Viewpoints and picnic spots lie on both sides; the stop takes about 20 minutes.
- Dead Indian Summit Overlook: a view over the Clarks Fork Valley, the Absaroka Range and, in clear weather, as far as the Beartooth Mountains. The viewpoint has a small car park, and the bends before it are tight.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Buffalo Bill State Park on the reservoir west of Cody: Lake Shore (37 sites, open all year) and North Fork (60 sites, 1 May to 30 September); reservations only, by phone on 1-877-996-7275 or online; water and showers depend on the weather in May and September, and from October to April the water is shut off. Simple: Hunter Peak (10 sites, 20 dollars, late May to mid-October) and Dead Indian (10 sites, 15 dollars) in the Shoshone National Forest, both with pitches up to 32 ft and no reservations, cash or cheque only, with bear boxes and drinking water.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Shoshone National Forest dispersed camping is allowed on many forest roads, usually for at most 16 days; food must be stored bear-safe. The rules for vehicles without hard sides and fire bans change with forest conditions – ask on site at the Clarks Fork Ranger District (307-527-6921).
- Insider tip for campers
- The section from Cooke City to WY-296 usually stays passable until early November according to the NPS, but it depends on the weather; check WYDOT 511 beforehand. The Beartooth Highway (US-212) between Red Lodge and Cooke City closes on 12 October in 2026 according to media reports. Cody has a free municipal dump station (2301 26th Street, behind Memorial Park) with coin-operated water, which may be shut off in autumn. The Cody Nite Rodeo runs only from 1 June to 31 August – after that the Buffalo Bill Center of the West with its five museums remains.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks sleeping is allowed only on designated campgrounds; this also applies to pull-outs, viewpoints and trailhead car parks. Rangers patrol at night, and violations are fined.
- Dispersed camping is allowed in the surrounding National Forests. Custer Gallatin (West Yellowstone, Gardiner): at most 16 consecutive days at the same site and 32 days per calendar year. Shoshone: usually 16 days. Bridger-Teton: Shadow Mountain only on the 51 marked sites, from 1 May to Labor Day a maximum of 5 days within 30 days; Grassy Lake Road in the Caribou-Targhee National Forest with about 20 sites (check beforehand).
- Bear rules: in the Custer Gallatin National Forest the Food Storage Order applies from 1 March to 1 December 2026. Food, rubbish and scented items belong in a hard-sided vehicle, in a certified bear-resistant container (list at igbconline.org) or hung at least 3 m high and 1.2 m from the tree; violations can lead to civil liability. On sites with bear boxes store everything edible there.
- Fire only in existing fire rings, extinguish completely, do not build new rings, observe fire bans. Do not burn wood with nails or screws. Hot springs are off limits: bathing is prohibited, never leave the boardwalks.
- Distances: at least 100 yards (91 m) from bears, wolves and cougars, 25 yards (23 m) from all other animals such as bison and elk. If a bear approaches the car, honk.
- Useful sources: Recreation.gov, the NPS app with offline maps, iOverlander and Campendium; road conditions via WYDOT 511 (Wyoming), 511 Montana and the Yellowstone hotline (307) 344-2117.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations: in Yellowstone the NPS lists stations at Bridge Bay, Canyon, Fishing Bridge, Grant Village and Madison; some are open to guests only, so ask at the campground. In Grand Teton they are at Gros Ventre, Signal Mountain and Colter Bay. Outside the parks: Cody free of charge (2301 26th Street), in West Yellowstone at several campgrounds for a fee (about 5 to 20 dollars).
- Fuel: the Yellowstone stations have card pumps round the clock all year, while the stores close early: Canyon 31 October, Old Faithful upper 18 October, Mammoth 4 October, Fishing Bridge 11 October, Grant Village and Old Faithful lower in September. In Gardiner, West Yellowstone, Cooke City, Crandall, Jackson and Cody fuel is often cheaper.
- Tap water is drinkable on most campgrounds; Eagle Creek and the forest tracks have none. Filter or boil stream and lake water. Never drain grey water onto the ground, and empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane is available at Colter Bay RV Park, Colter Bay Campground and Headwaters at Flagg Ranch, and in Jackson, West Yellowstone, Gardiner and Cody; North American standards, European cylinders are rarely refilled.
- Frost threatens at night: protect water lines and hoses, check the heating.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: Yellowstone at most 45 mph, less in wildlife zones. Grand Teton usually 55 mph by day on US-26/89/191, 45 mph at night. Wyoming allows up to 80 mph on interstates; there are no separate limits for motorhomes, the signs apply.
- Entrance to Yellowstone and Grand Teton: 35 US dollars per vehicle for 7 days each, and the tickets are valid only in the respective park. Non-US residents pay an additional 100 dollars per person aged 16 and over in 2026, except with an annual pass; the Non-Resident Annual Pass costs 250 dollars, an “America the Beautiful” annual pass for residents 80 dollars, the Grand Teton annual pass 70 dollars. Both parks use card payment, and Grand Teton does not take cash. A timed-entry ticket is not required for entry.
- Campgrounds: all Yellowstone sites must be reserved in advance (exception: Mammoth from 15 October to 1 April), and bookings open six months ahead; in Grand Teton there are no first-come sites. A maximum of 14 nights from 1 July to Labor Day, otherwise 30 nights per campground; generators from 8 am to 8 pm and at most 60 dB at 15 m, quiet hours 10 pm–6 am, check-in 1 pm, check-out 11 am.
- Vehicle lengths: Yellowstone Canyon up to 40 ft, Grant Village 50 ft, Madison and Bridge Bay 60 ft, Mammoth, Tower Fall and Slough Creek 30 ft, Fishing Bridge up to 95 ft; Grand Teton: Signal Mountain and Lizard Creek 30 ft, Gros Ventre and Colter Bay 45 ft. The Signal Mountain Summit Road is closed to trailers and motorhomes; the Gardner River High Bridge takes no vehicles over 8 ft 6 in wide, 75 ft long or 80,000 lbs.
- Season: almost all Yellowstone roads close on 31 October 2026 according to media reports, Dunraven Pass and the Beartooth Highway already on 12 October (check beforehand); only Gardiner–Mammoth–Tower–Lamar Valley–Cooke City stays open all year. Many campgrounds close from mid-September, and snow and frost are possible from late September.
- Emergencies: dial 911 or ask a ranger; Grand Teton information (307) 739-3399, Yellowstone road status (307) 344-2117. Reception in the park is patchy, and the NPS app with offline maps helps. No tolls on this route.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Bear spray on your belt, not in your rucksack – buy it in Jackson, West Yellowstone or Cody; the FAA does not allow most cans on aircraft.
- Warm sleeping bags, hat and gloves, plus frost protection for the water lines: at 2,000–2,500 m (Canyon, Dunraven Pass) night frosts are the rule in September and October.
- Spotting scope or binoculars of 10×42 or better for wolves and grizzlies in the Lamar and Hayden Valleys, so the 100-yard rule can be kept.
- Offline maps and a paper map – in the park and on the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway reception drops out; the NPS app with downloaded maps.
- A credit card and some cash or cheques: the Yellowstone stations and Grand Teton are cashless, while the Forest Service sites Hunter Peak and Dead Indian take only cash or cheque.
- Levelling blocks and a levelling aid for the uneven sites in the National Forests, plus a tape measure for the bridge at Mammoth (width up to 8 ft 6 in).
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
