In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Ålesund via Atlanterhavsveien, Trollstigen and Ørnevegen to Geirangerfjord, up to Dalsnibba and back through the Nordfjord: around 780 kilometres, four ferry crossings and mountain passes that are only open in the summer half of the year.
The spirit of the route
You drive western Norway in layers: first the spray of the Atlantic Road, which leaps from skerry to skerry over eight bridges, then the Rauma valley with the overhanging wall of the Trollveggen, and finally the eleven hairpins of Trollstigen, where water glistens in the crevices. At Geirangerfjord the farms cling to slopes no tractor can reach, and from your sliding door you can see the Seven Sisters above the water when the mist lifts. Up on Dalsnibba the fjord lies 1,500 metres below like a green thread. In between come ferry quays with queues, meadows with sheep and glacier tongues reaching down into the forests. It rains often, and the roads are narrow. In return, the light after a shower is all yours.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Ålesund to Molde (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- From Ålesund take the E136 via Ørskog to Vestnes, a well-built main road with a few tunnels and short climbs. At Vestnes take the ferry to Molde (E39), crossing time around 33 minutes. Total driving time including the ferry is about 2 hours, plus waiting time at the quay.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ålesund: after the fire of 1904 the whole town centre was rebuilt in Art Nouveau style; from the Aksla viewpoint, reached by 418 steps or by driving up to Fjellstua, you can see islands, harbour and the Sunnmøre Alps.
- Atlanterhavsparken on the edge of Ålesund, an aquarium with coastal landscapes and outdoor areas on the open sea.
- Molde: the Varden viewpoint above the town with a panorama over the Romsdalsfjord and the jagged peaks on the far side.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Kviltorp Camping on the outskirts of Molde, which according to its OpenStreetMap entry has electric hook-ups, sanitary facilities and service points; check facilities and season before you travel. In Ålesund, Volsdalen Camping on the edge of town is a good choice for the first night before departure.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Norway tolerates overnighting in vehicles in legal car parks and lay-bys as long as there are no prohibition signs. In Ålesund and Molde this does not apply to city-centre car parks, where motorhome parking is usually time-limited. In Vestnes there is a motorhome and rest area at the harbour (Vestnes bobil- og rasteplass), which the pitch apps list. Check the current status before relying on it.
- Insider tip for campers
- According to the 2026 tariff, the Molde–Vestnes ferry costs 257 NOK for vehicles of 6.01–8 m and 116 NOK for vehicles under 6 m; a discount applies with an AutoPASS agreement or prepaid account. Whether a rear rack or trailer pushes you into the higher length class depends on the actual overall length. At peak times (Friday and Sunday afternoons) there is not always room for the next sailing, so allow for waiting time. Fill up and shop in Ålesund beforehand.
2Stage 2: Molde to Molde (Atlantic Road loop) (approx. 125 km)
- The drive
- Take the Fv64 from Molde via Hjelset and Eide to Atlanterhavsveien: the 8.3-kilometre road crosses eight bridges and causeways between Kårvåg and the island of Averøy, with Storseisundbrua the best known. Continue to Averøy, then return along the coastal road to Bud (Fv664) and via Eide to Molde. Mostly well-built, with gusts on the bridges; the road can be closed in storms. Allow a whole day with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Atlanterhavsveien: the walkways and car parks on Eldhusøya allow a stroll right by the water; in a westerly wind the spray breaks over the carriageway.
- Kvernes stave church on Averøy, a 14th-century stave church set in green meadows above the fjord.
- Ergan coastal fort in Bud, a German Second World War coastal fortress at the outer end of the coast, with gun emplacements and tunnels.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Second night at Kviltorp Camping in Molde, since the loop does not require a move. If you prefer to stay out: on the island of Averøy and near the Atlantic Road there are several campsites, including, according to OpenStreetMap, Skjerneset Bryggecamping on Averøy and Skogly Camping in the Eide/Hustad area; check facilities and season beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The car parks at Atlanterhavsveien are visitor car parks; a pitch entry on Campercontact describes only a small car park there not intended for large vehicles (maximum about 8 m, two spaces, no services). Overnighting is not intended there; heed the signs and do not assume it is tolerated.
- Insider tip for campers
- Plan the Atlantic Road for morning or evening; at midday coaches fill the car parks. Check wind and swell on yr.no beforehand: in a storm the road is endangered by the surf, and drivers of vehicles with tall bodies will feel the gusts. Fill up in Molde or Eide, as there is little choice along the route. According to a government announcement, the Atlanterhav Tunnel to Kristiansund is no longer subject to a toll; check tolls on other sections in advance in the AutoPASS overview.
3Stage 3: Molde to Åndalsnes (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- Take the Molde–Vestnes ferry (around 33 minutes), then the E136 through the Romsdal: first along the coastal stretch at Tresfjord beside the fjord, then along Isfjorden to Åndalsnes. A well-built main road with tunnels and little traffic. Driving time is about 1 hour plus the ferry.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Rampestreken: a viewing platform above Åndalsnes with views of the fjord, the Rauma river and the peaks; reached on foot or by car as far as the car park.
- Trollveggen in Romsdalen: Europe’s highest overhanging rock face (around 1,100 m), easy to see from the car park on the E136.
- Stigfossen: a waterfall at the start of the Trollstigen route, only a few minutes from the town.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Mjelva Camping & Hytter on the edge of Åndalsnes with electric hook-ups, sanitary facilities and service points according to the site list; check season and availability before you travel. Other sites in the Romsdal: Trollveggen Camping, Romsdalseggen Camping, Trollstigen Camping & Gjestegård.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Åndalsnes there is a motorhome car park at Tindekaia right in the town (with water according to its OSM entry). In the Romsdal you may only camp wild outside built-up areas, not on private meadows and not at lay-bys with a prohibition sign. The access roads to the hiking car parks at Romsdalseggen are narrow and not meant for motorhomes.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up in Åndalsnes before tackling the passes; there are hardly any petrol stations between there and Geiranger. If you want to take Trollstigen in the morning, check the road condition reports from the road authority (vegvesen.no, “Vegvesen trafikk” app) the evening before.
4Stage 4: Åndalsnes to Geiranger (approx. 95 km)
- The drive
- Take the Fv63 up over Trollstigen: eleven hairpins with gradients of around 9–10 %, narrow, with passing places. At the top is the Trollstigplatået plateau at a good 800 m, then the road descends to Valldal. From Linge a ferry crosses to Eidsdal (around 10 minutes according to the timetable), followed by the Ørnevegen with its eleven hairpins to Geiranger. Driving time is about 3 hours plus the ferry and photo stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Trollstigplatået: viewing platforms on the edge of the gorge with views of the hairpins and Stigfossen; the visitor centre has a café and information.
- Ørnesvingen (Eagle Bend) on the Ørnevegen with a view of Geirangerfjord and the ferry wakes below; a short stop in the car park.
- Valldal: the village is known for its strawberries in July; farm shops by the roadside sell them.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Geiranger Camping on the edge of Geiranger with electric hook-ups, sanitary facilities and service points according to the site list; book in high season. Other sites: Grande Hytteutleige og Camping, Solhaug Camping, Vinje Camping and Dalen Gaard Camping & Hytter, season usually May to September.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Geiranger, overnighting in vehicles in the village centre, on the fjord shore and in the viewpoint car parks is prohibited according to travellers’ reports and the press (we found no official confirmation); take signs and checks seriously. You should expect a penalty charge, but its amount is not documented. Book a campsite here without fail.
- Insider tip for campers
- Trollstigen is only open in the summer half of the year (usually from about mid-May to October or November, depending on snow). Since Monday, 28 September 2026, the section between Trollstigfoten (Åndalsnes) and the plateau has, according to fjordnorway, been closed Monday to Friday from 7 am to 6 pm for up to four weeks (so until about the end of October at the latest); it is open in the evenings and at weekends. The plateau remains accessible from Valldal. The current status is available from Statens vegvesen and in the “Vegvesen trafikk” app. Tour operators give 12.4 m as the length limit for the route; the official fjordnorway page gives no limit, so clarify in advance if your vehicle is larger. Ferry fare Linge–Eidsdal 2026: 180 NOK in the 6.01–8 m class, 81 NOK under 6 m.
5Stage 5: Geiranger to Geiranger (Dalsnibba) (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- A day trip on the Fv63 up past Flydalsjuvet to Djupvasshytta (around 17 km, steep throughout), then on the private toll road to Dalsnibba (5 km, 11 hairpins, around 10 %). The summit is at 1,500 m, the road is narrow, with oncoming traffic in the hairpins. Return by the same route. Driving time is about 2 hours without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Flydalsjuvet: a viewpoint on the Fv63 with the classic view of Geirangerfjord and a ship, most beautiful in morning light.
- Geiranger Skywalk Dalsnibba: a viewing platform at the summit, 1,500 m above the fjord, with views as far as the glaciers in clear weather.
- The Seven Sisters and Friaren (The Suitor): two waterfalls on the opposite shore of the fjord; take a fjord cruise from Geiranger, ideal in the afternoon.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Second night on the same site as the day before; the trip to Dalsnibba does not require a move.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The Flydalsjuvet and Dalsnibba viewpoint car parks are day destinations; overnighting is not intended there, so heed the signs. If you want to be at the top early, plan your departure time rather than a night camp.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Dalsnibba road is a private toll road; according to fjordnorway it costs 330 NOK for cars (motorcycles 170 NOK, buses 2,830 NOK); the site gives no motorhome rate, so ask the operator (dalsnibba.no). According to fjordnorway the viewing platform is open from mid-May to the end of September, and whether the road is open depends on snow. You can also reach the summit on a guided tour if your motorhome is too long for the hairpins. In high season cruise ships come in and the village is crowded: start early and leave the motorhome on the campsite.
6Stage 6: Geiranger to Loen (Nordfjord) (approx. 120 km)
- The drive
- From Geiranger take the Fv63 via Djupvasshytta and the high plateau to Grotli, then the Fv15 through the mountains to Videseter and down to Stryn and on to Loen. A wide mountain road, with bog landscape and snowfields at the top into summer, and reindeer signs. Driving time is around 2.5 to 3 hours. Alternatively, for motorhomers with patience: the Gamle Strynefjellsvegen (Fv258) between Grotli and Videseter, open in summer only.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gamle Strynefjellsvegen: the old mountain road with stone walls and viewpoints, about 27 km, open in summer only.
- Strynefjellet: a high plateau with a summer ski area and wide views over lakes and snowfields.
- Loen Skylift: a gondola up Hoven (1,011 m) with a platform above the fjord.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Lo-Vik Camping in Loen right on the fjord with electric hook-ups, sanitary facilities and service points according to the site list; season usually May to September. Alternatives: Sande Camping, Nesset Fjordcamping and Olden Fjordcamping.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Overnighting at lay-bys in the high mountains (Videseter, Grotli) is allowed or prohibited depending on the signage; around Loen and Olden there are numerous private car parks that are not meant for motorhomes. Do not drive onto reindeer and sheep pastures; fires are prohibited in woodland and open country from 15 April to 15 September.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up in Stryn: there are hardly any petrol stations between Geiranger and Stryn. Weather changes on the high mountain pass are sudden, and snow is possible even in July. Drive downhill in a low gear to spare the brakes.
7Stage 7: Loen to Hellesylt (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- From Loen take the Fv60 to Olden and on into the Oldedalen to Briksdalsbreen (around 25 km, a narrow, winding valley). Return to Stryn and continue on the Fv60 past Grodås and Hornindalsvatnet to Hellesylt. A wide main road with a few tunnels and several lay-bys by the lake. Driving time is about 3 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Briksdalsbreen: a glacier tongue of the Jostedalsbreen, a good 45 minutes’ walk from the Briksdal car park; electric vehicles (“Trollcars”) cover part of the way.
- Lovatnet and Kjenndalen: a narrow road along the lake with a view of the Kjenndalsbreen glacier; only for smaller vehicles, check the road status.
- Hornindalsvatnet: the lake is regarded as the deepest in Europe (around 500 m); the Fv60 runs along the shore with lay-bys.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Hellesylt Camping on the fjord with a view of the Hellesyltfossen; other sites include Stadheimfossen Camping & Hytter. Check facilities and season before you travel.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Oldedalen and at Briksdalsbreen the car park is intended for day visitors. Protection rules apply in Jostedalsbreen National Park, and the access roads are narrow; no free camping by the roadside. At Hornindalsvatnet there are simple rest areas; whether overnighting is tolerated there depends on the signage.
- Insider tip for campers
- The car park at Briksdal may charge a fee, and the site is crowded in summer. Arrive before 10 am. If you would rather not take the motorhome into the Oldedalen, you can visit the glacier from Olden as a bus or walking tour. In summer a car ferry links Hellesylt with Geiranger, but it is not needed on this route.
8Stage 8: Hellesylt to Ålesund (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- Take the Fv60 along the Sunnylvsfjord to Stranda, then the Stranda–Liabygda ferry across the Storfjord, continue through Sykkylven to Ørskog and back to Ålesund on the E136/E39. Winding along the fjord, ferry around 13 minutes (operator Fjord1 according to the timetable portal). Driving time is about 2.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Stranda: a harbour on the Storfjord and the starting point of the fjord ferry; the fjord is deep here and framed by high mountains.
- Sykkylven: a fjord town with furniture industry and a bridge over the Sykkylvsfjord.
- Ålesund: a finish with the harbour district and the view from Aksla in evening light.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Volsdalen Camping on the edge of Ålesund with electric hook-ups and sanitary facilities according to the site list; alternatively motorhome sites such as Skjerva bobilparkering or Hjelsetgården bobilparkering in Ålesund (check the current status of the sites).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Ålesund and the surrounding area, car parks in the harbour and centre are time-limited; camping behaviour (chairs, awning) is not permitted in public car parks. The municipal pitches are alternatives to the campsite; check fees and season on the spot.
- Insider tip for campers
- We could not check the Stranda–Liabygda ferry fare; it probably also depends on vehicle length, so check fare and timetable with the operator Fjord1 beforehand. It is best to use waste disposal and fresh water at the site in Ålesund. Fill up on the E136 at Ørskog.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- The Norwegian right of public access (Friluftsloven) allows hiking and camping in undeveloped country (utmark), at least 150 m from inhabited houses and cabins and as a rule for no more than two nights in the same place; in the high mountains and far from settlements it may be longer. On cultivated land (innmark) you need the landowner’s permission. It applies to tents, not across the board to motorhomes: the vehicle may not be driven off public roads into open country.
- Sleeping in a vehicle counts legally as parking. Where parking is allowed and no sign prohibits it, you may usually sleep too; camping behaviour (chairs, tables, awning), barbecuing and emptying waste on the road are prohibited. On private land you need the owner’s permission.
- In the Geiranger area, at viewpoints such as Flydalsjuvet and at heavily visited car parks, overnight bans and checks apply; penalty charges are possible, but the amount is not documented; the ban is not officially confirmed and rests on reports. Between 15 April and 15 September open fires are prohibited in woodland and open country.
- You can stay legally at campsites, motorhome sites and farm pitches. Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact, municipal pitch directories and the Norwegian app for waste disposal stations (Tømmestasjoner).
Waste disposal & supplies
- In Norway service points are called “tømmestasjon”; the stations are at campsites, some petrol stations and municipal sites. Empty grey water and toilet cassettes only there, not into drains or ditches.
- Drinking water in Norway is of good quality almost everywhere; springs and fountains at rest areas are signposted. On mountain routes such as Trollstigen and Dalsnibba there are no service stations, so fill up in Åndalsnes and Geiranger.
- Gas: Norway uses pure propane. German exchange cylinders are not swapped, and refilling foreign cylinders is only common at specialist suppliers. Travel with two full cylinders and an adapter and check refill points in advance. Autogas is hardly available at petrol stations in western Norway.
- Alcohol: strong beer and wine are sold only at Vinmonopolet; supermarkets sell beer up to 4.7 % on weekdays until about 8 pm, shorter hours on Saturdays and not on Sundays. Petrol stations are rare in the mountains, so fill up in Åndalsnes, Stryn or Hellesylt.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: on country roads the limit is usually 80 km/h, in built-up areas 50 km/h or less; on a few motorway stretches up to 110 km/h for cars and motorhomes up to 3.5 t. Vehicles over 3.5 t and combinations may drive at no more than 80 km/h (unbraked trailers over 300 kg likewise 80 instead of the former 60 km/h since March 2022). Speed cameras are widespread and fines are high.
- Dimensions according to commonly given figures (not officially verified): width 2.55 m, height 4.0 m, length 12.4 m. On narrow mountain roads such as Trollstigen, length limits and passing places are decisive. Dipped headlights are compulsory in daytime, a warning triangle and hi-vis vest must be carried in the vehicle, the alcohol limit is 0.2 per mille, and holding a phone to your ear is prohibited.
- Tolls and ferries: Norway uses AutoPASS and electronic registration of number plates. Foreign vehicles pay by invoice; registration with Epass24 is not mandatory according to AutoPASS, but saves the fee for the keeper enquiry (given there as EUR 5.10 for Germany). A discount is available only with an AutoPASS agreement and toll tag (20 % according to AutoPASS). Special rules with a mandatory tag apply to vehicles over 3.5 t. Ferry fares depend on length: in 2026 Molde–Vestnes cost 257 NOK in the 6.01–8 m class (116 NOK under 6 m), Eidsdal–Linge 180 NOK (81 NOK under 6 m). The Dalsnibba road is a private toll road.
- Wildlife: elk and reindeer are less common in western Norway than in the north, but possible in the mountains around Strynefjellet and in the Nordfjord; sheep often roam freely on the road. Drive slowly at night and at dusk.
- Season: Trollstigen and the Geiranger–Grotli link are closed in winter and usually open in mid-May, closing in October or November depending on snow. Since 28 September 2026 Trollstigen has been closed on weekdays from 7 am to 6 pm for up to four weeks; in October many campsites are already closed. Check the current status before you travel. Norway has no winter tyre requirement tied to a fixed date; in wintry road conditions the tyres must be suitable (check the current rules).
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Registration with Epass24 (saves the enquiry fee) or an AutoPASS agreement with a toll tag (discount): toll stations charge electronically.
- Two full propane cylinders with a suitable adapter: foreign cylinders are hardly ever exchanged in Norway.
- Rain jacket and wellies: western Norway is among the rainiest regions in Europe, and the mountains change the weather within minutes.
- Levelling ramps, step 2–3: many campsites are on a slope or on gravel.
- Have the brake fluid and pads checked before the trip; the Ørnevegen and the Dalsnibba road have gradients of around 10 %.
- An offline map and the “Vegvesen trafikk” app for road closures: mobile reception sometimes drops out on the passes.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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