In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the port city of Gothenburg via Marstrand, Tjörn, Orust and Smögen to Fjällbacka, the rock carvings of Tanum and Strömstad, with a boat trip to Koster: about 550 kilometres over bridges, along fjords and through a land where pitches need planning just as much as the trips to the islands.
The spirit of the route
Bohuslän is a land of pink granite rounded by the ice, and of water that reappears at every turn. The road winds between bare cliffs, little pine woods and red fishing cottages, crosses bridges onto islands and ends in harbours where the shrimp boats come in at dawn. From your sliding door you see gulls on the mooring posts, sailing boats against the light and, after rain, the smell of seaweed and wet rock. In summer the evenings stay light late, and the rocks hold the warmth well into the night. Wild camping looks easier here than it is: Allemansrätten covers tents, not motorhomes. Instead there are small campsites right on the water, and those who plan ahead are rewarded with shrimp sandwiches, salted herring and bathing rocks.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Gothenburg to Marstrand (Koön) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Gothenburg take the E6 north through Kungälv, then country roads to the island of Marstrand, joined to Koön, where the mainland ends. Well-built road, with city traffic and bridges at the start and quieter beyond Kungälv. A good hour of pure driving time, but Gothenburg itself needs half a day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gothenburg: the Fish Church (Feskekôrka) on the Rosenlund Canal, the Haga district and Slottsskogen, all on foot from your pitch or a tram stop.
- The southern archipelago from Saltholmen, with ferries to Styrsö, Donsö or Vrångö, all car-free; a day trip by tram line 11.
- Marstrand: Carlsten Fortress above the harbour entrance; the old town lies on the island of Marstrandsön and is a few minutes away by short ferry from Koön, so it is best to leave your vehicle on Koön.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: In Gothenburg there are Lisebergs Camping Kärralund (east of the city centre, on the tram line) and Lisebergs Camping Askim Strand (in the south, by the beach). Both have electricity, sanitary facilities and a service point; book early in high season. In Marstrand itself, Marstrands Familjecamping on Koön is an option, and OpenStreetMap also lists Mjölkekilen Husbilsplatser with around 20 pitches; check facilities, season and price in advance with the municipality or harbour.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Outside campsites, staying overnight in Gothenburg is only possible in regularly designated car parks; watch for time limits and residents' parking. On Koön the municipal areas are managed and charge a fee, and the area near the harbour is monitored. Under Swedish law, motorhomes may sleep wherever parking is allowed – but camping behaviour such as putting out chairs and an awning can still be prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Gothenburg, watch out for the congestion charge (Trängselskatt): it is collected by number plate as you pass the control points (weekday daytimes, Monday to Friday; not in July and not at weekends or on public holidays); for foreign vehicles, clarify the procedure in advance with Transportstyrelsen. If you want to avoid the city centre, park at the campsite and take the tram. Marstrand is overcrowded on summer weekends – arrive by midday at the latest, or in the evening.
2Stage 2: Marstrand to Tjörn (Skärhamn) (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- Back via Kungälv onto the E6 as far as Stenungsund, then over the Tjörn Bridge onto the island and along the main road to Skärhamn. The bridge is toll-free, high and breezy in the wind – watch for crosswinds. About 1.25 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Nordiska Akvarellmuseet in Skärhamn on the harbour, with exhibitions in pavilions right above the water.
- Klädesholmen: a fishing village with a harbour, known for its salt-cured herring, wooden jetties and houses on small rocky islets.
- Bathing cliffs on Tjörn's west coast, especially in the evening with the sun setting over the Skagerrak.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Almöns Camping on Almön, just beyond the bridge, and Tjörnbron Park Camping at the bridgehead: both have electricity, sanitary facilities and fresh water and waste disposal, on the coast with bathing rocks. In Skärhamn the guest harbour (Skärhamns Båtförening) has a toilet emptying point; ask the harbour in advance whether there are motorhome pitches.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Tjörn, overnighting in a motorhome in car parks by the sea is mostly restricted. Shore protection (strandskydd) generally applies within 100 metres of the waterline and mainly prevents building, but the municipality and landowners can prohibit parking. Driving off paved roads into open terrain is forbidden under the off-road driving regulation.
- Insider tip for campers
- Tjörn and Orust are easy to reach from the E6, but the island roads are narrow and have hardly any passing places. Fill up and shop in Stenungsund before the island; wine and strong beer are sold only at Systembolaget, so check its locations and opening hours in advance – supermarkets sell only light beer up to 3.5 per cent.
3Stage 3: Tjörn to Orust (Mollösund/Henån) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Skärhamn over the bridge at Skåpesund to Orust, Sweden's third-largest island, then country roads to Henån and on to the west coast at Mollösund. Many bends, hardly any hard shoulder, and oncoming tractors and cyclists. About 1.25 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Mollösund: a fishing village on the south-west tip with a harbour, a fish smokehouse and a waterside café.
- Käringön and Gullholmen: car-free islands off the west coast, reached by passenger ferry (Västtrafik line 381) from Tuvesvik, about 10 minutes to Gullholmen and about 45 minutes to Käringön; park your vehicle at the landing stage and check the timetable with Västtrafik.
- Henån: Orust's main village, handy for shopping, water and waste disposal.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: In Henån there is a motorhome stopover (Henåns ställplats) on the edge of the village. Orust has several campsites: Vindöns Camping & Marina and Hafsten Resort, Stocken Camping on the west coast and Unda Camping in the east of the island; check facilities and opening times in advance (according to OpenStreetMap, Stocken Camping has electricity, sanitary facilities and a service station). Book in July and early August.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Orust, wild camping in a motorhome is hardly practical: the roadsides are narrow, much of the land is private, and the landowner may prohibit vehicles being left there – this is not covered by the right of public access. If you want to stay away from a campsite, ask the farmer or landowner for permission.
- Insider tip for campers
- The quay at Mollösund is narrow and overcrowded in summer; park at the edge of the village and walk. Shop and refuel in Henån; the coastal villages usually have only small shops. Smokehouses and fish sales at the harbour often close early.
4Stage 4: Orust to Smögen (Sotenäs) (approx. 95 km)
- The drive
- From Orust over the Svanesund Bridge to the mainland and north on the E6, then at Munkedal onto road 162 to the Sotenäs peninsula with Hunnebostrand, Kungshamn and the island of Smögen (bridge). A quick drive on the E6; from Munkedal it is a country road of varying width. About 1.75 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Hunnebostrand: a granite harbour with a long stonemasons' tradition, and a walk round the village.
- Smögenbryggan: the wooden boardwalk, around 600 metres long, with fish shops, ice-cream parlours and cafés (overcrowded in summer).
- A morning walk over the granite cliffs at Smögen's southern tip, while the boardwalk is still empty.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: First Camp Solvik – Kungshamn and Sotenäs Camping in Kungshamn: with electricity, sanitary facilities and fresh water and waste disposal, both close to the water. In Smögen itself OpenStreetMap lists a stopover; check whether it is in operation and the price in advance. Hunnebostrands Camping & Stugor is an alternative on the way.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Smögen and in Kungshamn, staying overnight is heavily regulated in high summer: the municipalities have parking bans and time limits at the harbour and bridges. Expect checks. The official areas usually charge a fee.
- Insider tip for campers
- In high season the bridge to Smögen and the access to Smögenbryggan are jammed at midday; drive in early in the morning, or use the car parks on the edge and walk. The best way to buy shrimps and lobster is directly from the fishermen in the harbour.
5Stage 5: Smögen to Fjällbacka and Tanumshede (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- Back to the mainland, then on country roads and the E6 to Tanumshede, from there along road 163 to Fjällbacka and back again to the Tanum rock carving area. Mostly well-built road, about 1 hour of driving time without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Fjällbacka: a harbour village beneath the mountain Vetteberget; the climb to Kungsklyftan, a narrow rock cleft, is worth it for the view over the skerries.
- Rock carvings of Tanum (UNESCO World Heritage Site): Vitlycke with a museum and circular trail, ship and human figures from the Bronze Age.
- Ingrid Bergman Square on Fjällbacka's harbour, with the fish market next to it.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Camping Fjällbacka on the edge of the village, with electricity, sanitary facilities and fresh water and waste disposal; Tanums Camping & Stugby near Tanumshede is quiet and inland, and a good base for the rock carvings. High season: book ahead.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the rock carving area and in Fjällbacka, the car parks are meant for visitors, and staying overnight is not intended. Tanum municipality enforces parking rules, and nature reserves such as Kungsklyftan are not meant for overnighting.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road to Fjällbacka is narrow and busy in July; with larger motorhomes, go in the morning and leave the vehicle at your pitch. For Vitlycke, use the car park at the museum. The rock carvings are best seen in spring and autumn in low light; on parts of the site the engravings are repainted in red for visitors.
6Stage 6: Tanumshede to Strömstad (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- North on the E6 to Grebbestad and on to Strömstad on the Skagerrak. A well-built main road, with side routes too in the coastal area. About 40 minutes of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Grebbestad: a harbour village known for oysters and seafood; oyster safaris are offered there.
- Strömstad: harbour promenade, spa-town history and the ferry departure for the Koster Islands.
- Saltö and Tjärnö: islands reached by road south of Strömstad, with a marine research station and shore paths.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Strömstads Camping near Strömstad (coastal, electricity, sanitary facilities, fresh water and waste disposal) and Seläter camping north of the centre; both are listed in OpenStreetMap. In Grebbestad there is First Camp Edsvik. Book early from July.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): There is no official wild camping in Strömstad; overnight parking at the harbour and in the centre is regulated. If you have to go elsewhere, use designated areas or ask at the tourist information office.
- Insider tip for campers
- Strömstad is right by the Norwegian border: many Norwegians come to shop, so supermarkets and car parks are full at weekends. Systembolaget is closed on Sundays. If you are travelling on into Norway, tolls (AutoPASS) and alcohol limits are regulated differently – here we cover only the Swedish side.
7Stage 7: Strömstad to Koster (day trip) (approx. 10 km)
- The drive
- The motorhome stays in Strömstad: the passenger ferries (Kosterlinjen, operated by Molslinjen since 27 September 2026) run all year round from Norra hamnen in about 45 minutes to Syd- and Nordkoster; vehicles are not taken. Cars are practically unwelcome on the islands; you explore them on foot or by bicycle.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Sydkoster: walking trails over cliffs to the sea and to bathing coves.
- Nordkoster: an unspoilt, rocky island with a lighthouse and a nature reserve.
- Kosterhavet National Park: Sweden's first marine national park, with diving, seals and seabirds.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: You stay overnight in Strömstad as on the previous day, or at the same campsite. Motorhome camping is not intended on the islands themselves; rooms and cabins there are limited.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Kosterhavet National Park, rules apply for boats, beaches and nature conservation; tents and fires are only allowed in designated places. There are no motorhome pitches on the islands.
- Insider tip for campers
- Check the timetable and prices with Kosterlinjen and Västtrafik (tickets are also available in the Västtrafik app ToGo); allow plenty of time for the last return sailing. Bicycles can be hired on the island. Take provisions, water and sturdy shoes.
8Stage 8: Strömstad to Gothenburg (approx. 165 km)
- The drive
- Almost entirely the E6 south via Tanumshede, Uddevalla and Kungälv back to Gothenburg. A wide main road with speed limits mostly between 90 and 110 km/h, and roadworks and speed cameras more frequent than you might expect. A good 2 hours of driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Uddevalla: a port town on the Byfjord with facilities for water-based activities; a stop for shopping and refuelling.
- Kungälv: Bohus Fortress above the Göta älv river, with castle grounds and a view.
- Gothenburg: to finish, Haga and the harbour district, fish and prawns in the evening.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: In Gothenburg, Lisebergs Camping Kärralund or Askim Strand again. If you arrive late, use the stopover near the harbour; check in advance whether it is in operation (OpenStreetMap lists Tjolmens ställplats there). Reserve early in high season.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Rest areas (rastplats) on the E6 are for short breaks; under Swedish traffic rules a maximum stay of 24 hours generally applies on weekdays, and at weekends and public holidays until the next working day, unless a sign says otherwise. Camping in the sense of chairs and an awning is not included.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up before entering Gothenburg, as fuel is more expensive in the city. The city centre's Miljözon (class 1) affects heavy lorries and buses; motorhomes over 3.5 t are not expressly mentioned there and should be checked in advance with Transportstyrelsen or the city. The congestion charge applies only on weekday daytimes, Monday to Friday (not in July), at most 60 SEK per vehicle per day; it is recorded by number plate.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Allemansrätten (the right of public access) applies in Sweden to people, not to motor vehicles: you may pitch a tent for one night away from houses, but leaving a motorhome in open terrain is forbidden under the off-road driving regulation. Almost all nature away from roads counts as terrain, and a landowner can prohibit vehicles being left there.
- Parking and overnighting on public roads is allowed where parking is allowed; a motorhome may stand there as long as it causes no disturbance, the municipality has not banned camping and you are not in the immediate vicinity of a dwelling without consent. On rest areas a maximum stay of 24 hours generally applies on weekdays, and at weekends until the next working day. Municipalities can ban camping in certain areas in their local regulations.
- On the coast, shore protection (strandskydd, usually 100 metres), nature reserves (e.g. Kungsklyftan, Koster) and harbour areas also come into play. There are therefore often signs by the water restricting parking or overnighting. Penalties are parking fines and towing; check charges only on site.
- Useful aids are park4night, Campercontact and the pitch guides of the Swedish motorhome association (Svenska Husbilsklubben); the municipalities' tourist information offices know the local sites. Many sites are called “ställplats” and charge a fee.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Water and waste disposal: Swedish “ställplatser” often offer fresh water, a grey-water drain and a toilet emptying point (“latrintömning”); campsites have service points, which guests from other sites can also use for a fee. Dumping grey or black water in the wild is forbidden.
- Tap water in Sweden is good to drink; taps at harbours and sites usually carry no warning, but do not use water where signs say “inte dricksvatten”. Water is scarce on the islands, so you should take full tanks with you.
- Gas: Swedish propane cylinders (Gasol) can generally be exchanged only within their own deposit system; German cylinders cannot be exchanged. Arrive with full cylinders, or use a refill system with a suitable adapter. Autogas (LPG) is rarely available at petrol stations.
- Shopping: wine, spirits and beer over 3.5 per cent are sold only at Systembolaget (closed on Sundays). Deposit bottles and cans (pant) can be returned in supermarkets. Cashless payment by card is possible almost everywhere.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: cars and motorhomes up to 3.5 t follow the signs (outside built-up areas mostly 70 to 100 km/h, on the E6 often 100 to 110 km/h, in built-up areas 50 km/h). Cars with a braked trailer may drive 80 km/h according to the Transportstyrelsen table. For motorhomes over 3.5 t, lower vehicle values apply (roughly 80 to 90 km/h, depending on the classification in the registration document); lower values on signs take precedence.
- Dipped headlights are compulsory day and night. The alcohol limit is 0.2 per mille; mobile phones at the wheel only with a hands-free kit. Winter tyres are required from 1 December to 31 March in wintry road conditions.
- Gothenburg: the Trängselskatt (congestion charge) is collected at the control points only Monday to Friday, roughly 6.00 to 18.29, not at weekends, on public holidays, on the day before a public holiday or in July; at most 60 SEK per vehicle per day. It is recorded by number plate, and foreign vehicles are affected too; clarify the procedure in advance with Transportstyrelsen. The low-emission zone (Miljözon class 1) affects heavy lorries and buses; motorhomes are not expressly mentioned there, so for vehicles over 3.5 t ask in advance at Transportstyrelsen or the city.
- Bridges and ferries: the Tjörn Bridge and the bridges to Orust and Smögen are, to the best of our knowledge, toll-free; the ferries to the car-free archipelago islands (Styrsö, Käringön, Gullholmen, Koster) are passenger-only services, and vehicles stay on the mainland. Check timetables with Västtrafik.
- Wildlife: elk and deer cross the road mainly at dusk; drive more carefully inland. Permitted vehicle dimensions in Sweden: width generally at most 2.6 m, height 4.5 m; signs take precedence. A high-visibility vest and warning triangle are not compulsory but are recommended.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Heavy levelling ramps and a mallet for tent pegs: pitches by the water are often on uneven granite.
- Tick and mosquito repellent and a tick remover: Bohuslän lies in an area with ticks, so check your TBE vaccination beforehand.
- Bathing shoes and neoprene socks: the cliffs are slippery, and jellyfish occur in late summer.
- A 25 m CEE cable and adapter for campsites; on islands the power supply is sometimes weak.
- Weatherproof clothing and a windproof jacket: a cool wind blows off the Skagerrak even in summer, and rain comes quickly.
- A credit card rather than cash: almost all sites, ferries and parking machines take only cards or apps (e.g. the municipalities' parking apps).
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
