In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 480 km from the ferry port of Olbia via Orosei and Cala Gonone into the limestone walls of the Supramonte, to the Gola Su Gorropu, on to Baunei on the Ogliastra coast and back via Oliena, Orgosolo and Nuoro – sturdy, honest central Sardinia, with a lot of driving time on narrow mountain roads.
The spirit of the route
If you only know Sardinia from the beaches of the Costa Smeralda, you don't know the island. The Barbagia is its counterpart: holm oak forests, granite and limestone plateaus, shepherds' paths, villages of dark stone whose house walls carry murals telling of strikes, war and freedom. From the sliding door you see mist in the valleys of the Supramonte in the morning, air shimmering over the juniper at midday, and in the evening the smell of myrtle and wood smoke from the gardens. The road is winding and empty, the passes lie at around 1,000 metres, and down in the Gulf of Orosei the sea waits in a blue framed by limestone cliffs. The Barbagia asks for calm, time and respect for the shepherds, the mountains and fire. In return it rewards you with pecorino, Cannonau, carasau bread and hosts who like to talk.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Olbia to Orosei (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- From the port of Olbia take the SS125 Orientale Sarda south via Siniscola and La Caletta, then from Orosei head into the town or to the marina. The SS125 is well built but twisty and full of rental cars in summer; about 1.5 hours. If you prefer a faster drive, take the toll-free SS131 DCN and turn east later, but it saves hardly any time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Old town of Orosei with the small churches around Piazza del Popolo and the tower Sa Turre.
- Cala Liberotto beach and Marina di Orosei at the mouth of the Cedrino, flat and exposed to the wind.
- View across the plain of the Cedrino to the mountain barrier of the Supramonte, which is the destination the next day.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Several campsites lie along the coast of Orosei, such as Camping Cala Ginepro near Orosei and Camping Sa Prama in Cala Liberotto. Both have electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; the season usually starts in spring and ends in autumn. Book in July and August.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the beaches of the Orosei coast, overnighting in car parks is often forbidden in season and is checked; in summer, fire-protection regulations come on top. It is better to plan a firm pitch.
- Insider tip for campers
- Sardinia has no motorway tolls; the SS131 and SS131 DCN are toll-free. Fill up in Orosei or Dorgali before the mountains – filling stations in the Supramonte are rare and often closed on Sundays and public holidays. The supermarket in Orosei is the last larger shopping opportunity before Cala Gonone.
2Stage 2: Orosei to Cala Gonone (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- On the SS125 south to Dorgali, then down the provincial road to Cala Gonone. The route runs through cork oaks and olive groves and is easy to drive; the last kilometres to Cala Gonone are narrow, with a tunnel and hairpins, and in summer with oncoming buses and rental cars. About 1 hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Grotta di Ispinigoli on the SS125 near Dorgali: a huge stalagmite, one of the tallest in Europe, plus a chasm, the “Abisso delle Vergini”.
- Tomba dei Giganti S’Ena e Thomes in the hinterland of Dorgali, a Nuragic communal burial site with a tall stone stele.
- Boat trip from Cala Gonone to the Grotta del Bue Marino and to Cala Luna, Cala Sisine and Cala Mariolu.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Campeggio Cala Gonone lies on the coast in the built-up area; higher up on the approach road there is the agriturismo site Camping Nuraghe Mannu. The sites have electricity and sanitary facilities, season usually April to October. Pitches are shady but not large; announce large motorhomes in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Cala Gonone itself and on the coastal road, overnighting in the vehicle outside the campsites is not usual and is checked in season. The nature-protection rules of the Golfo di Orosei also apply to bays and paths.
- Insider tip for campers
- The boats to Cala Luna and the Grotta del Bue Marino leave from the harbour of Cala Gonone and run several times a day in season; buy tickets on the quay, and trips are cancelled when it is windy. Cala Luna can also be reached on the coastal path from Cala Fuili, but only with sturdy shoes, plenty of water and early in the morning.
3Stage 3: Cala Gonone to Gola Su Gorropu (Passo Genna Silana) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- Back to Dorgali, then on the SS125 Orientale Sarda over the Passo di Genna Silana (about 1,000 m) towards Urzulei. The road is well surfaced but has many bends and narrow sections, and is slippery in fog or rain; the driving time of more than an hour is a minimum figure. There are many hikers' car parks at the pass.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gola Su Gorropu: one of the deepest gorges in Europe, with vertical limestone walls of about 400 m, reachable on foot.
- Hiking trails from the Passo Genna Silana and from the bridge Ponte Sa Barva near Urzulei into the gorge.
- View from the pass westwards over the plateau of the Supramonte with juniper and holm oaks.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Around the Passo di Genna Silana there are only a few basic places to stay with access to the hiking trails; you should clarify by phone beforehand whether and when they open and whether they take motorhomes. There is an area di sosta for motorhomes near Orgosolo (see stage 6).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the area of the Gola Su Gorropu, camping outside the sites is not allowed, and the car parks at the pass are meant for hikers. Open fires are forbidden in the wildfire season and are punished severely.
- Insider tip for campers
- Access to the Gola Su Gorropu is usually subject to a fee and regulated (ticket, sometimes advance registration); check fees, ticket requirement and minimum equipment beforehand with the municipality of Urzulei or Dorgali or via sardegnaturismo.it, depending on the access route. After rain the Rio Flumineddu carries water and the path through the gorge is closed or dangerous; locals or a guide make sense for the deeper part.
4Stage 4: Passo Genna Silana to Santa Maria Navarrese (Baunei) (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Continue on the SS125 through Urzulei and down to Baunei, with the descent to the coast of the Ogliastra. The route is winding, narrow in places and demanding when there is oncoming traffic; about 1 to 1.5 hours. You reach the plateau Altopiano del Golgo from Baunei on a narrow, partly gravel road that is not suitable for large motorhomes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Altopiano del Golgo above Baunei with the church of San Pietro and the abyss Su Sterru, the “well” of the karst plateau.
- Cala Goloritzè with its rock spire Aguglia, reachable on a hike from the Su Porteddu car park.
- Santa Maria Navarrese with the church and the olive tree said to be 1,000 years old.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Santa Maria Navarrese there are several sites by the sea, including Camping Cigno Bianco and Camping Village Orri; both have electricity and sanitary facilities. The season is mostly spring to autumn. Book in good time in high summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Ogliastra, bans on overnighting in beach car parks and on the access roads to the bays apply in summer; the municipality of Baunei checks especially in the Golfo di Orosei e del Gennargentu National Park.
- Insider tip for campers
- Cala Goloritzè is a protected natural monument: the number of visitors is limited, in the high season advance booking is usually required and access is subject to a fee – check the period, fee and booking with the municipality of Baunei beforehand. The hike takes about 1 to 1.5 hours each way and is steep; take shoes with a good tread and water.
5Stage 5: Santa Maria Navarrese to Oliena (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- Back on the SS125 north via Baunei, the Passo di Genna Silana and Dorgali, then on the provincial road to Oliena at the foot of Monte Corrasi. The same route as on stages 3 and 4, but in the opposite direction and in different light; about 2 hours, and the road to Oliena is well built.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Oliena with its old town and the church of Santa Maria, at the foot of the 1,463 m high Monte Corrasi.
- Sorgente Su Gologone: a large karst spring near Oliena, clear water in a shady pool.
- Hikes from Su Gologone and Monte Maccione into the Supramonte, for example towards Tiscali.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Above Oliena, in the area of Monte Maccione, there are small sites and agriturismi that take motorhomes; clarify opening, facilities and vehicle length by phone beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Supramonte, camping outside designated sites is not allowed; in the fire season an absolute ban on open fires applies in the forests. Motorhomes may only park in Oliena where parking is permitted.
- Insider tip for campers
- The village of Tiscali lies in a collapsed sinkhole of the Supramonte and can only be reached on foot, usually with an entrance fee; check access, guide requirement and starting point (often Sa Sedda ’e sos Carros or the Valle di Lanaittu near Su Gologone) beforehand. In summer start hikes early, as there is hardly any shade and no water.
6Stage 6: Oliena to Orgosolo (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Oliena to Nuoro and on along the provincial roads to Orgosolo. The roads are well built but winding; the entrance to the village is narrow, with a gradient and small lanes. About 45 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- The murales of Orgosolo: hundreds of murals since the late 1960s, showing political themes such as strikes, war and land expropriation.
- The mountain landscape of the Supramonte di Orgosolo with the excursion to Settiles on the plateau.
- The shepherd life of the Barbagia: pecorino, goats and the traditional juniper brandy Filu ’e ferru.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: According to pitch directories, an area di sosta for motorhomes is listed near Orgosolo; ask beforehand about opening, supply and disposal, and electricity. Alternatively, stay at agriturismi with pitches in the surrounding area. Opening times change, calling is recommended.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Orgosolo itself motorhomes may park in public car parks where it is not forbidden, but camping with chairs, tables or an awning is not allowed. In the Supramonte landscape, nature-protection and fire-protection rules apply.
- Insider tip for campers
- The murals are best reached on foot: the centre is narrow, so motorhomes park on the edge of the village and walk. Ask before photographing people in the village – the residents appreciate politeness; many shepherds are about in the area, so close gates on grazing tracks.
7Stage 7: Orgosolo to Nuoro (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- On the provincial roads back to Nuoro, then up to Monte Ortobene. The drive takes about 40 minutes; the road to Monte Ortobene is narrow and winding, and very busy on public holidays and in August.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Monte Ortobene with the statue of the Redeemer (1901) and a view over the Nuoro basin and the Gennargentu massif.
- Museo Etnografico Sardo (Museo del Costume) in Nuoro with costumes, jewellery and everyday objects.
- Old town of Nuoro with the Casa Natale of the writer Grazia Deledda, Nobel Prize in Literature (awarded for the year 1926).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Nuoro itself has no large campsite of its own; motorhomes find room at pitches and agriturismi in the surrounding area, for example around Monte Ortobene and Oliena. Check the current status in park4night and Campercontact.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Monte Ortobene and in the parking areas by the forest, wildfire protection applies; overnighting in car parks is not welcome in Nuoro. If in doubt, ask the municipality or the police.
- Insider tip for campers
- The feast of the Redentore (end of August) with a procession and groups in traditional costume attracts thousands of visitors; the car parks at the top are then full. Nuoro lies centrally on the SS131 DCN and is a good place to top up water, supplies and gas before heading back to the port.
8Stage 8: Nuoro to Olbia (approx. 105 km)
- The drive
- On the toll-free SS131 DCN (Diramazione Centrale Nuorese) from Nuoro north-east towards Olbia. The expressway is well built but has roadworks and lorry traffic; about 1.5 hours. Fill up beforehand, as filling stations are not close together.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Forest and plateau between Nuoro and Olbia with the granite rocks of the Gallura in the last section.
- Basilica of San Simplicio in Olbia, a Romanesque church from the 11th and 12th centuries.
- Corso Umberto and the harbour of Olbia with a view of the island of Tavolara.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Olbia there are several campsites and aree di sosta close to the port; check the current status beforehand. If the ferry leaves late in the evening or early in the morning, a night near the port is practical.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Olbia and around the port, overnighting outside the sites is not usual; car parks are monitored. Motorhomes may only park in the city where it is not forbidden.
- Insider tip for campers
- Plan to arrive at the port a few hours before the ferry departs. Gas cylinders usually have to be closed and declared on ferries – check the shipping line's rules when booking. Fill up the tank in Olbia before check-in.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada) distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): a motorhome may stand where parking is permitted, provided it only stands on its wheels. Chairs, tables, awning, support legs and draining grey water count as camping and are forbidden.
- In Sardinia many coastal municipalities and protected areas issue their own bans on overnighting in car parks; in the Gulf of Orosei, in the Gennargentu National Park and in natural monuments such as Cala Goloritzè, the rules of the protected-area authority apply in addition. Fines and towing are possible.
- In the wildfire season (usually June to October, check the regional ordinance) open fires are forbidden in forests and on pastures; grills and gas stoves outdoors are also risky. Take the fire danger seriously, as violations are punished severely.
- Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact and CamperOnline (Italian). Aree di sosta and agriturismi are thin on the ground in the Barbagia – a call beforehand saves detours.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Filling and emptying is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. In the Barbagia and the Supramonte it is only available at a few sites; Orosei, Cala Gonone and Santa Maria Navarrese have sites with a service point.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the service point; wild dumping is a main reason for bans.
- Tap water is mostly drinkable, and fountains in the villages of the Barbagia often supply very good spring water. In summer water can become scarce; fill the tank before the mountains.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. You fill refillable cylinders and gas tanks at LPG filling stations with the Italian adapter; in the interior they are rare. Arrive with two full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on the motorway; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas, 100 km/h on the motorway. Car-and-caravan combinations: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights are required outside built-up areas even in daytime.
- Sardinia has no motorway tolls: the SS131, SS131 DCN and SS125 are toll-free. Ferries to the island run from mainland ports such as Civitavecchia, Livorno, Genoa and Naples to Olbia, Golfo Aranci and Cagliari; state the length and height of the motorhome when booking.
- ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) with camera monitoring also exists in Nuoro, Olbia and other places on the route; the fines arrive by post, often months later. The centres of Orgosolo and Oliena are too narrow for large vehicles.
- Roads in the Supramonte: sheep, goats, cows and wild boar on the carriageway are common, especially at dusk; rockfall after rain. Do not drive large motorhomes on the Altopiano del Golgo plateau or on gravel roads.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, for example bicycles on a rear rack, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is mandatory. Blood alcohol limit 0.5, 0.0 for novice and professional drivers; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Hiking boots with a grippy sole, headlamp and poles – the paths to the Gola Su Gorropu and to Cala Goloritzè are stony and steep.
- At least three litres of water per person and hike – springs are rare and there is hardly any shade.
- Levelling ramps of level 2–3 for sloping pitches on hillsides and at agriturismi.
- Thick fleece jacket and rain jacket – at the Passo di Genna Silana at around 1,000 m it can be cool and wet even in summer.
- Italian gas adapter for LPG filling stations, plus two full cylinders on arrival.
- Water shoes and snorkel for the pebble bays of the coast from Cala Gonone to Santa Maria Navarrese.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
