In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 295 km through the Gallura in north-east Sardinia: from Olbia along the Costa Smeralda to Arzachena and Palau, by ferry to La Maddalena, to Santa Teresa Gallura at Capo Testa and through the granite hinterland via Tempio Pausania back to Olbia.
The spirit of the route
The Gallura is Sardinia’s granite landscape: rocks shaped by the wind into mushrooms, bears and castles, with juniper, cork oak and maquis between them, and below it a sea that shimmers in every shade of green and blue on the Costa Smeralda. Drive slowly here and you see nuraghi and giants’ tombs among the rocks from the window, and later the islands of La Maddalena, lying off the coast like thrown stones. At Santa Teresa the view reaches as far as Corsica, and at night the lighthouse of Capo Testa flashes. Inland it grows quiet: Tempio lies grey and cool on Monte Limbara, cork oaks glow reddish brown in autumn, and from the motorhome you hear only goat bells and wind. The Gallura rewards those who avoid the beaches when the ferries arrive.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Olbia to Porto Cervo (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Olbia take the coast road via Porto Rotondo and the Gulf of Cugnana into the Costa Smeralda, then on to Porto Cervo. The road is well built, but twisty and busy in season; about 1 hour. Restrictions apply on access roads to beaches and hotels, and approaches are in places tight for large motorhomes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Olbia with the Basilica di San Simplicio, the oldest Romanesque church in the town, and the harbour as the ferry destination from the mainland.
- Porto Rotondo with the harbour promenade and the little church of San Lorenzo.
- Porto Cervo with the harbour, the Piazzetta and the church of Stella Maris, designed by the architect Michele Busiri Vici; the development dates from the 1960s.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Around the Gulf of Cugnana and Olbia there are campsites, including Villaggio Camping Cugnana, with electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; season mostly spring to autumn. In the Costa Smeralda itself there are hardly any campsites and the choice is small; call in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Costa Smeralda, parking and overnighting in a motorhome in beach, harbour and hotel car parks is largely forbidden and is checked; the municipality of Arzachena enforces bans in season.
- Insider tip for campers
- Refuel and shop in Olbia before driving into the Costa Smeralda: shops and petrol stations there are expensive. Access to the beaches is partly over private access roads that are closed or charged in season; find out in advance. Porto Cervo is a port of call for yachts, and car parks for motorhomes are rare and expensive.
2Stage 2: Porto Cervo to Arzachena (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Porto Cervo take the coast road to Baia Sardinia and on to Arzachena, in the hinterland of the granite rocks. The route is twisty, with gradients and views of the islands; about 45 minutes. In season the road between Porto Cervo and Baia Sardinia is very busy.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Baia Sardinia with its beach and the granite rocks in the water.
- Tomba dei Giganti Coddu Ecchju near Arzachena, a Nuragic communal tomb with a tall, arched entrance.
- Nuraghe La Prisgiona, a well-preserved nuraghe complex with a tower and village.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Arzachena and Cannigione there are several campsites, including Villaggio Camping Golfo di Arzachena and Centro Vacanze Isuledda, with electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; season mostly spring to autumn. Reserve in advance in high season (July and August).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Arzachena and on the coast, overnighting in a motorhome in car parks is forbidden in summer or strictly checked; the hinterland is private land, and wild camping is not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- The nuraghi and giants’ tombs are in the hinterland, partly reached over gravel tracks; find out in advance about access and opening times. In Arzachena there are supermarkets and petrol stations. The granite in this area is slippery when wet, so wear sturdy footwear.
3Stage 3: Arzachena to Palau (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Arzachena via Cannigione and the coast road to Palau, past Capo d’Orso. The road is mostly well built, but twisty, with views of the islands; about 1 hour. Access roads to beaches and viewpoints are narrow.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Capo d’Orso with the granite rock in the shape of a bear (Roccia dell’Orso), a viewpoint over the La Maddalena archipelago.
- Cannigione with the harbour and the bay, a starting point for boat trips.
- Palau with the harbour from which the ferries to La Maddalena depart.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Palau and Capo d’Orso there are several campsites, including Camping Capo d’Orso, Camping Abbatoggia, Camping Acapulco and Isola dei Gabbiani, with electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; season mostly spring to autumn. Reserve in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Palau and at Capo d’Orso, overnighting in car parks and at viewpoints is forbidden in summer and is checked; the area is partly within protected zones.
- Insider tip for campers
- You reach the Roccia dell’Orso on a short path; the access road is partly tight for motorhomes, so park at the roadside. Buy the ferry tickets for La Maddalena at Palau harbour or online in advance; in high season the queues are long.
4Stage 4: Palau to La Maddalena (with Caprera) (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Palau take the ferry (about 20 minutes) to La Maddalena, then along the island roads to the panoramic road (Strada Panoramica) and over the bridge to Caprera. The island roads are narrow, twisty, with gradients and in places without crash barriers; parking is limited. Ferries run frequently in season; check departure times and vehicle fares with the operator in advance.
- Highlights & must-sees
- La Maddalena, the main island in the Arcipelago di La Maddalena National Park, with the little harbour town and the view from the Strada Panoramica.
- Caprera with the Compendio Garibaldino, the home of Giuseppe Garibaldi, and beaches such as Cala Coticcio (Tahiti) and Cala Brigantina.
- Passo della Moneta and Cala Spalmatore, viewpoints and bathing coves.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: There are only a few sites on La Maddalena; it is better to stay on the mainland near Palau (Camping Capo d’Orso, Abbatoggia, Isola dei Gabbiani) and take the ferry during the day or the local bus on the island. Call about locations and terms in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On La Maddalena and Caprera, overnighting in a motorhome and parking at beaches is forbidden or severely restricted; the islands are national park territory with their own rules for access and for reaching coves.
- Insider tip for campers
- In the national park, access rules apply to individual coves and beaches, partly with a visitor limit or reservation; Cala Coticcio can only be reached on foot along a path, with registration. On the island the roads are narrow, and a bicycle or scooter makes more sense than the motorhome. Find out from the park authority before the trip.
5Stage 5: La Maddalena to Santa Teresa Gallura (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- Take the ferry back to Palau, then the coast road (SS133bis) west to Santa Teresa Gallura; the dead-end road to Capo Testa branches off shortly before. The road is mostly well built, but twisty and scenic; about 45 minutes. Traffic in Santa Teresa is dense in summer, and the access to Capo Testa is narrow.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Santa Teresa Gallura with the Torre di Longonsardo and the view of the Strait of Bonifacio; in clear weather Corsica can be seen.
- Capo Testa with its wind-shaped granite rocks, the lighthouse and the bays of Rena di Levante and Rena di Ponente.
- Valle della Luna, a granite area with rocks and caves that was a meeting place for drop-outs in the 1970s.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Santa Teresa Gallura there are campsites, including La Liccia and Agricamping Petra di Cossu according to map data, with electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and waste disposal; season mostly spring to autumn. Reserve in advance in high season.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Santa Teresa and at Capo Testa, overnighting and parking in viewpoint and beach car parks is forbidden in summer and is checked; the area is partly within protected zones.
- Insider tip for campers
- Ferries run from Santa Teresa to Bonifacio in Corsica; check vehicle fares and heights with the operator in advance. Capo Testa has parking and access restrictions; the road is narrow. Take water and sun protection, as there is hardly any shade on the granite rocks.
6Stage 6: Santa Teresa Gallura to Tempio Pausania (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- From Santa Teresa via Aglientu into the hinterland towards Luogosanto and Tempio Pausania, on state and provincial roads through cork-oak woods and maquis. The roads are twisty, partly with a poor surface and gradients; about 1.5 hours. Ask in advance about the condition of the roads.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Luogosanto with the Basilica of Nostra Signora di Luogosanto, a place of pilgrimage, and the vineyards of the Gallura (Vermentino di Gallura).
- Tempio Pausania with the grey granite of the old town, the San Pietro cathedral and the Fonte di Rinaggiu spring.
- Monte Limbara with the viewpoints and hiking trails above the town.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Aglientu there are campsites, including Camping Village Baia Blu La Tortuga and Camping Village Saragosa; in Tempio Pausania an Area Camper is listed in map data (check whether it is open beforehand); season mostly spring to autumn. Call in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the hinterland, free camping outside the sites is not provided for; cork-oak woods and forest are at high risk in the forest-fire season (mostly June to October), and open fires are forbidden.
- Insider tip for campers
- Tempio is a good place for shopping; cork products, cheese (pecorino) and honey are local specialities. In winter it can be cold and foggy on Monte Limbara. Access roads to the nuraghi and viewpoints are partly unpaved.
7Stage 7: Tempio Pausania to Olbia (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- From Tempio via Calangianus, the centre of the cork industry, on the SS127 to Olbia. The road is well built, with gradients and bends; about 1 hour. Traffic in Olbia is dense in the city, and the approach to the ferry port is signposted.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Calangianus with cork processing and a cork museum, known for cork products.
- Nuraghe Majori near Tempio, a Nuragic complex with a tower.
- Olbia with the Archaeological Museum in the harbour area and the old town.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and around Olbia there are campsites and aree di sosta; sites with electric hook-up, sanitary facilities and waste disposal fill up early in season. Reserve in advance before the ferry.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Olbia, overnighting in a motorhome in public car parks and at the port is forbidden or severely restricted; checks are frequent.
- Insider tip for campers
- Ferries run from Olbia and Golfo Aranci to the mainland; give vehicle fares and heights when booking, and reserve well in advance in high season. Do your refuelling, shopping and waste disposal in Olbia before departure.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): where parking is allowed, a motorhome may stand and also be overnighted in, as long as it stands only on its wheels. Awning, table, chairs, supports and drained grey water are forbidden.
- In Sardinia, free camping outside sites is largely forbidden under regional and municipal rules; in the Gallura (Arzachena, Palau, Santa Teresa Gallura, La Maddalena) the municipalities ban overnighting in beach and harbour car parks in season. Fines and towing are possible.
- In the Arcipelago di La Maddalena National Park and in protected zones their own rules apply: access to coves partly restricted, no fire, no taking away sand, stones or plants. In the forest-fire season (mostly June to October), stricter fire bans apply.
- Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact and CamperOnline. Aree di sosta in Sardinia are seasonal, so call in advance.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Water supply and waste disposal is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. In the Gallura there are stations mainly at campsites and aree attrezzate.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at disposal stations; wild dumping leads to bans and fines.
- Drinking water from taps is mostly drinkable, but look for “acqua potabile”; in summer there can be water restrictions, so fill the tank in good time.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at GPL petrol stations with the Italian adapter; arrive with two full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, expressways 110 km/h, motorway 130 km/h; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas, motorway 100 km/h. Caravan combinations 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights outside built-up areas, also during the day.
- ZTLs (Zona a Traffico Limitato) with camera monitoring exist in Olbia, Tempio Pausania, Palau and La Maddalena; fines often arrive by post months later.
- Tolls: Sardinia’s state roads are toll-free. Ferries to La Maddalena, to Corsica and to the mainland are chargeable; give vehicle lengths and heights when booking, and reserve well in advance in high season.
- On La Maddalena and Caprera the roads are narrow and twisty; find out in advance about height and width restrictions.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, for example bikes on a carrier, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is mandatory. Alcohol limit 0.5, for novice and professional drivers 0.0; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Water shoes and a snorkelling mask for the rocky coves of La Maddalena and Capo Testa.
- Sturdy footwear for granite rocks, which are slippery when wet, and for paths to nuraghi and viewpoints.
- Sun protection, a hat and plenty of drinking water: there is hardly any shade on granite and coast.
- Levelling ramps, grade 2–3, for sloping pitches and agricampeggi.
- Red-and-white warning panel to Italian standard for rear carriers or overhanging boxes.
- Italian gas adapter for GPL petrol stations, plus two full cylinders when you enter the country.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
