In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the deep Black Canyon of the Gunnison via Paonia and the Grand Mesa to the red rocks of Colorado National Monument.
The spirit of the route
The Black Canyon is not a canyon that shows itself, but one that you look into: a few steps from the sliding door to the rim, then the world drops away 600 metres, black and grey rock, and far below a green thread, the Gunnison River. In the evening, when the sun falls on the Painted Wall, the stone turns first pink, then dark, and the sky above the Dark Sky Park fills with stars. After that comes Paonia with orchards, vineyards and farm stands, then the Grand Mesa, one of the largest plateaus on Earth at over 3,000 metres, with lakes in spruce forest and meadows where the aspens glow in autumn. Finally red walls, rock towers and hairpin bends in Colorado National Monument. The route links four landscapes in short stages – with one catch: the East Portal section is closed in 2026 because of mudslides.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Montrose to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (South Rim) (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- From Montrose east on US 50, then up CO 347 for ten miles to the South Rim. The road is two-lane, with a climb and bends. On the South Rim Road there are several viewpoints along the rim; according to the park, access and parking are limited for longer vehicles – check length and access on nps.gov beforehand. East Portal Road with its campground is closed after mudslides on 16 July 2026, and no reopening date had been set at last report. Driving time about 30 minutes; the park needs a day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Painted Wall: at just over 685 m the highest cliff in Colorado, visible from the Painted Wall View viewpoint; the pale pegmatite veins give it its name.
- Gunnison Point and Visitor Center: the way into the canyon, short trails, an exhibition on geology; with ranger programmes in summer.
- Warner Point Nature Trail at the end of the South Rim Road: views of the San Juan Mountains and into the canyon, at around 2,500 m; walking time about an hour.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: South Rim Campground in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park: sites among scrub oak, with drinking water (seasonal) and toilets, some sites with electricity, reservations all year via Recreation.gov; after damage from the South Rim Fire in 2025, only some of the sites were open at last report – check length, showers and status on nps.gov beforehand. East Portal Campground by the river is closed because of the damage in July 2026. Alternatives: Crawford State Park and campgrounds in Montrose.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the national park, free camping is prohibited. In Montrose County and in Uncompahgre National Forest, dispersed camping is possible in some places; around the park and on BLM land, check signage and access.
- Insider tip for campers
- The park is designated an International Dark Sky Park; do not use floodlights at night in the overflow area. Get fresh water and food in Montrose; the range in the park is small. Before entering the park, read the current notices on East Portal and on the roads on nps.gov.
2Stage 2: Black Canyon to Paonia (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Back to Montrose, then east on US 50 to Cimarron and north via CO 92 towards Crawford and Hotchkiss, finally via CO 133 to Paonia. The route is winding and crosses hills, with sections above gorges. Alternatively from Crawford on CO 92 through orchard country. Driving time about 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Crawford State Park: a lake at the foot of the Needle Rock Hills with a swimming beach, fishing and walking trails; warm and windy in summer.
- Hotchkiss and Paonia: orchards with peaches, cherries and apples, farm stands, wineries and breweries; harvest time is in high summer and autumn.
- Black Mesa and Smith Fork: viewpoints and small side valleys in the hinterland; on gravel and other roads, check whether large vehicles fit.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Crawford State Park (Colorado Parks and Wildlife): campground by the lake with some sites with electricity, water at central points and toilets; reservations via the Colorado Parks website, check length beforehand. Paonia State Park at Paonia Reservoir has a smaller campground in the mountains; check the status, as the approach via the Kebler Pass road is steep.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On BLM land in Delta County and in Gunnison National Forest, dispersed camping is allowed in some places; access to lakes and streams is often on gravel. In the towns, overnighting on streets and in car parks is prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- In late summer, farm stands in Paonia and Hotchkiss sell fresh fruit; have a cool box ready. Kebler Pass (CO 133) to Crested Butte is known for its aspens in autumn, but narrow and in places unpaved for large motorhomes – check the condition beforehand.
3Stage 3: Paonia to Grand Mesa (Island Lake) (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- From Paonia on CO 92 south to Delta and on north to the Grand Mesa Scenic Byway (CO 65) at Cedaredge. The ascent onto the mesa climbs from around 1,700 to 3,000 m, with hairpins, climbs and some steep sections; the road is two-lane, with viewpoints. In winter the road is often passable only with restrictions. Driving time about 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Grand Mesa Scenic Byway (CO 65): a cross-country road over the plateau with lakes, meadows and viewpoints; the mesa is regarded as one of the largest plateaus in the world, with hundreds of small lakes.
- Land’s End Observatory: a viewpoint on the western edge with views over valleys and mountains; for motorhomes the approach on a gravel road is possible, check the status on the spot.
- Island Lake and Mesa Lakes: trails and fishing lakes in spruce forest; aspens glow in autumn, wildflowers in summer.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Grand Mesa National Forest: Island Lake Campground, Spruce Grove Campground and Jumbo Campground offer simple sites by lakes, mostly without electricity, with drinking water only in part; check opening, length and reservations on Recreation.gov. In Cedaredge there are also private pitches; check selection on the spot.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Grand Mesa, dispersed camping is allowed in many places, mostly for up to 14 days, but not near lakeshores and in marked areas; observe fire bans.
- Insider tip for campers
- Get water and food in Cedaredge; there is little trade on the mesa. Because of the altitude it can freeze in the evening even in summer; have heating and thermal blankets ready. Afternoon thunderstorms come up quickly.
4Stage 4: Grand Mesa to Grand Junction (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- On CO 65 north across the mesa to Mesa, then via CO 330 down to I-70 and west to Grand Junction. The route has little traffic, with wide views; speed 55 to 65 mph, lower limits on the mesa. Driving time about 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Grand Junction: a city between the Colorado and Gunnison rivers, with viticulture in the Palisade area; Riverfront Trail and wine routes.
- Palisade: a fruit and wine region with peaches and wineries; harvest time in late summer.
- Colorado River Gorge: viewpoints and trails around Grand Junction, hot in summer.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: James M. Robb Colorado River State Park (Fruita Section) with a campground near the river; electricity, water and reservations via Colorado Parks and Wildlife, check length beforehand. In the Grand Junction area there are also private RV parks with hookups.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On BLM land around Grand Junction, dispersed camping is allowed in some places; it is hot there in summer, lovely in autumn. The city area and car parks are taboo for overnighting.
- Insider tip for campers
- Grand Junction is a good place to resupply, with dump stations, supermarkets, filling stations and launderettes. Fill everything up before Colorado National Monument; there is no shop in the park.
5Stage 5: Grand Junction to Colorado National Monument (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Fruita (I-70) or from Grand Junction via Monument Road onto Rim Rock Drive: about 23 miles (37 km) with hairpin bends, switchbacks and three tunnels (two in the west, one in the east); the road runs along the rim of the canyons. According to the park, the tunnels are at most 16 ft (4.9 m) high in the middle and narrow, so switch your lights on; for long and tall vehicles, check the dimensions on nps.gov before you drive. Driving time about 1.5 hours; with stops, half a day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Rim Rock Drive: a panoramic road on the rim of the canyons with numerous viewpoints such as Book Cliffs View and Independence Monument View.
- Independence Monument: a freestanding rock tower, popular with climbers and photographers; best in morning or evening light.
- Hiking on the Canyon Rim Trail and the Monument Canyon Trail: short and medium-length trails, in summer early in the day and with plenty of water.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Saddlehorn Campground in Colorado National Monument: sites on the high plateau (three loops, 79 sites) with water and toilets, without electricity; according to nps.gov bookable only via Recreation.gov, also same-day sites (daily from 8 am); check length and status beforehand. Alternatives are the Fruita section of James M. Robb State Park and private RV parks.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the national monument, free camping is prohibited. On BLM land around Fruita (Kokopelli Area) and in the Book Cliffs, dispersed camping is possible in some places; check rules and access.
- Insider tip for campers
- On Rim Rock Drive in summer you can start before 8 am to avoid heat and traffic. Fill up with fuel and water in Fruita; the heat calls for plenty of drinking water.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Dispersed camping in Colorado is mostly allowed on National Forest and BLM land for up to 14 days at the same spot, but not in national parks, in the Black Canyon and in Colorado National Monument.
- Fire bans often apply to entire counties in late summer; campfires only in fire rings and at a permitted level. Check the current rules with the Forest Service or BLM.
- Apps: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt; reservations via Recreation.gov and Colorado Parks and Wildlife. Road status at COtrip.
- Wildlife: black bears on the Grand Mesa, rattlesnakes in the canyon area, mule deer; keep your distance and secure food.
- Heat and altitude: in summer around Grand Junction over 35 °C, on the mesa near zero at night; plan clothing and water accordingly.
Waste disposal & supplies
- There are dump stations in Montrose, Delta, Grand Junction and Fruita and on some campgrounds; check location and fee beforehand.
- Drinking water: tap water is drinkable; in the Black Canyon and Colorado National Monument there are taps on the campgrounds.
- Empty grey water and chemical toilets only at disposal points.
- Propane in Montrose, Delta and Grand Junction; European gas bottles need adapters.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Montrose, Delta, Cedaredge and Grand Junction; smaller shops and farm stands in Paonia.
- Electricity: private and state park campgrounds offer 30 and 50 A; sites in the national park mostly do not.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: highways mostly 55 to 65, on mountain roads lower values as signed. Lower limits apply on the South Rim Road and Rim Rock Drive.
- East Portal Road and East Portal Campground at the Black Canyon are closed after the mudslides of July 2026; check the current status on nps.gov.
- Tolls: none on the route; there are no express lanes in the region.
- Dimensions: Colorado allows up to 13 ft in height; in Colorado National Monument the tunnel height in the middle is at most 16 ft, check lengths before you drive; many campgrounds limit vehicles to 30 to 40 ft.
- Reservations: campgrounds in the national park and in National Forests via Recreation.gov, state park campgrounds via Colorado Parks and Wildlife.
- Weather: afternoon thunderstorms, snow on the Grand Mesa in spring and autumn; the road can be closed at short notice.
- Traffic law: a right turn on red after stopping is allowed where not prohibited; alcohol in the vehicle only if sealed; seat belt and child seat rules apply.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Water canisters and sun protection: in the canyon area there is little shade and in summer it is hot.
- Warm jacket and hat: on the Grand Mesa at over 3,000 m the temperature drops sharply at night.
- Binoculars for peregrine falcons in the canyon and birds on the mesa’s lakes; head torch for the starry sky.
- Cool box for fruit and vegetables from the farm stands in Paonia.
- Offline maps and printed reservations: on the Grand Mesa and in the canyon area there is often no reception.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
