In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Durango via Silverton and Ouray to Telluride and back over Lizard Head Pass: 420 kilometres through the steepest corner of the Rocky Mountains.
The spirit of the route
Driving the San Juan Skyway means driving through a backdrop that feels like an amphitheatre of rock, spruce and gold. Beyond Durango, US 550 winds up over Coal Bank and Molas Pass above 3,000 metres, and the camper’s windows are full of peaks. In Silverton the steam train still stands in the station, in Ouray hot springs lie between vertical rock walls, and the Million Dollar Highway hangs in switchbacks on the slope, with no guard rail and deep drops. Beyond Ridgway the land opens out: Telluride lies at the end of a box canyon, and Lizard Head stands as a rock spire at the pass. In autumn the aspens glow on the slopes, and at night the temperature drops to a few degrees above freezing. The route demands concentration and reserves of cooling and braking, but it rewards you with panoramas that hardly any other US road offers.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Durango to Silverton (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- North on US 550 out of the Animas valley: Hermosa Cliffs, Purgatory (ski area), then Coal Bank Pass (about 3,240 m) and Molas Pass (about 3,325 m) with long climbs and descents, gradients of 6–8 %, tight bends, speeds 35–55 mph. Pure driving time about 1.5 hours. The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad runs alongside; steam-train trips are separate items on the programme and are not made in the camper.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad: a narrow-gauge railway with a steam locomotive, in operation since 1882, about 3.5 hours each way; reserve tickets early.
- Molas Pass and Molas Lake: a viewpoint with a view of the Needle Mountains, a small lake next to the pass.
- Silverton: a historic mining town at about 2,840 m, main street with saloons and a museum, a view of Kendall Mountain.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Haviland Lake Campground in San Juan National Forest, about 30 kilometres north of Durango: sites by the lake in conifer forest, drinking water, toilets, some sites with electricity, vehicles up to 45 ft; reservations via Recreation.gov, season roughly May to mid-October. At Molas Pass lies the Molas Lake Park & Campground of the town of Silverton (about 8 kilometres south of the town, season roughly 1 June to 30 September, reservations from 1 January, motorhomes welcome, basic facilities).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In San Juan National Forest dispersed camping is mostly allowed for up to 14 days, often at altitudes above 3,000 m: watch for frost and thunderstorms. In the town area of Silverton, spending the night in a vehicle on streets and car parks is not intended.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel, shop and empty your waste in Durango. The road has pass stretches with no break: watch engine and coolant temperature and drive descents in a low gear, without putting continuous load on the brakes. At altitudes above 3,000 m headaches can occur, so drink enough.
2Stage 2: Silverton to Ridgway (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- On US 550, the Million Dollar Highway, north from Silverton over Red Mountain Pass (about 3,358 m) to Ouray and on to Ridgway. The section between Silverton and Ouray is the most demanding: tight switchbacks, hardly any guard rails, steep drops, speeds 20–35 mph. Pure driving time about 1.5 hours. According to CDOT, since the end of July 2026 there has been a roadworks site south of Ouray (retaining wall and Bear Creek Tunnel) with alternating one-way traffic, waits of up to about 15 to 20 minutes and a width restriction of 11 ft (3.35 m); planned end at the end of September, the retaining wall by October. In July Red Mountain Pass was closed for two days after mudslides and reopened on 31 July. Check the current status beforehand on cotrip.org.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Red Mountain Pass: a viewpoint with the coloured slopes of the Red Mountains, old mines and spoil heaps beside the road.
- Ouray: a town in a bowl-shaped valley surrounded by rock walls, with the Ouray Hot Springs (municipal pool) and Box Canyon Falls Park with a waterfall in a gorge; check admission.
- Bear Creek Falls and the Million Dollar Highway: pull-outs and a small viewpoint; photo stops only in pull-outs.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Ridgway State Park on Ridgway Reservoir: campgrounds with sites with and without electricity, dump station, showers and water; check length limits and reservations with Colorado Parks and Wildlife. Closer to Ouray there are Forest Service sites such as Amphitheater Campground (access steep and narrow, unsuitable for large vehicles).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On forest land in Uncompahgre National Forest dispersed camping is mostly allowed for up to 14 days, but the access roads are steep; in the town area of Ouray, spending the night in a vehicle is not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Drive the pass stretch only in dry weather and in daylight; in thunderstorms watch for mudslides, and stop or turn back if water or stones come across the road. In a motorhome look out for passing places and do not stop in bends.
3Stage 3: Ridgway to Telluride (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- From Ridgway on CO 62 over Dallas Divide (about 2,735 m) to Placerville, there on CO 145 to Telluride and into the box canyon as far as the town: open pastures, a view of Mount Sneffels (4,314 m), then tighter bends in the valley section. About 1.5 hours’ driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Dallas Divide: one of the best-known photo stops in the Rocky Mountains, especially in autumn with aspens and the Sneffels range.
- Telluride: a Victorian mining town in a box canyon; the free gondola links the town with Mountain Village, and Bridal Veil Falls lie at the end of the valley and can be reached via a gravel track.
- Bridal Veil Falls: a waterfall of about 110 m at the head of the valley; the access leads over a gravel track and only makes sense with a four-wheel-drive vehicle.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Telluride Town Park Campground: a municipal site on the edge of the town, 2026 season from 15 May to 4 October, without electricity and waste-water hook-ups (water taps, coin showers), units up to 30 ft, reservations through the town, maximum 7 nights. Further simple sites in Uncompahgre and San Juan National Forest above Telluride and Ophir; ask locally about names and condition.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Dispersed camping is allowed on forest land (14 days), prohibited in the town of Telluride; checks are strict.
- Insider tip for campers
- The gondola in Telluride is free, so there is no need to drive the motorhome into the town centre. Parking in Telluride is scarce, so it is better to leave motorhomes on the edge. Clarify fresh water and waste disposal in advance.
4Stage 4: Telluride to Dolores (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- On CO 145 south-west over Lizard Head Pass (about 3,115 m) to Rico and on through the Dolores valley to Dolores: long climbs, forest and alpine pastures, then flatter stretches on the Dolores River. Two-lane, speeds 35–55 mph. Pure driving time about 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lizard Head Pass: the rock spire Lizard Head (about 4,000 m) with a viewpoint; trails into the Lizard Head Wilderness.
- Rico: a former mining town at about 2,700 m with small shops, a quiet stop.
- Dolores: a town on the Dolores River; Anasazi Heritage Center with a museum on the Ancestral Puebloans, check opening hours.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: McPhee Reservoir (San Juan National Forest): on the shore of the reservoir, campgrounds with sites with and without electricity, toilets, water in part; clarify length limits and reservations locally. In addition, private RV parks in Dolores offer hook-ups.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In San Juan National Forest dispersed camping is mostly possible for up to 14 days; observe fire bans in summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel and water in Rico or Dolores; there is no fuel station between Telluride and Rico. Drive the descents on the pass in a low gear.
5Stage 5: Dolores to Durango (approx. 115 km)
- The drive
- From Dolores on CO 145 and US 160 to Mancos and on to Durango: high plateau, pinyon forests, then a climb over Hesperus Hill and a descent into the Animas valley. About 1.75 hours’ driving time. A detour to Mesa Verde National Park is possible (see separate route).
- Highlights & must-sees
- Mancos Valley: a rural valley with farms and small shops, a view of the La Plata Mountains.
- Mancos State Park (Jackson Gulch Reservoir): a small lake with trails and fishing.
- Durango: a town with a historic main street, the narrow-gauge railway station and museums; the end of the loop.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Mancos State Park: campgrounds by the reservoir with sites with and without electricity, toilets, showers; seasonal opening, so check length limits and reservations with Colorado Parks and Wildlife. In Durango private RV parks offer hook-ups; book sites in the Animas valley early.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Dispersed camping in San Juan National Forest near Mancos and Hesperus is allowed; access roads are partly narrow.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Durango empty your waste, fill up with fuel and shop before you hand the vehicle back. Intermediate stops in Cortez or Mesa Verde National Park are an option if there is still time.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Colorado dispersed camping on National Forest and BLM land is generally allowed, usually for up to 14 days in one place, but not in national parks, protected areas and marked closed zones; in summer fire bans (fire restrictions) often apply.
- In towns and villages (Silverton, Ouray, Telluride, Durango), spending the night in a vehicle on streets and car parks is mostly prohibited; checks are strict. If in doubt, choose a campground.
- Altitude and weight: many sites lie above 2,700 m; nights are cool to frosty, and afternoon thunderstorms are the rule in summer. Altitude sickness is possible, so acclimatise slowly.
- Wildlife: black bears, marmots and rattlesnakes at lower altitudes; keep food in the vehicle at night and secure rubbish.
- Mudslides and wildfire scars: after heavy rain mudslides are possible, especially on US 550; closures are announced by CDOT. In rain keep away from slopes.
- Useful apps and sites: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, Recreation.gov (Forest Service), Colorado Parks and Wildlife, cotrip.org and the pages of San Juan and Uncompahgre National Forest.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations: Ridgway State Park, Mancos State Park and private RV parks in Durango, Silverton, Ouray, Telluride and Dolores; check availability and fees in advance. Sanidumps.com lists stations.
- Drinking water: tap water in the towns is drinkable; Forest Service sites often have no water, so bring containers. Filter or boil surface water.
- Fuel: fuel stations in Durango, Silverton, Ouray, Ridgway, Telluride, Rico and Dolores; none on the passes. In the high mountains fill up before the ascent.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Durango, Ridgway, Telluride and Cortez; in Silverton and Ouray small shops with higher prices.
- Gas: propane in Durango and Telluride; European bottles need an adapter, and rental motorhomes have permanently installed US tanks. At high altitude propane works less well at low temperatures.
- Electricity and mobile coverage: hook-ups only at a few sites; reception drops out on the passes and in the canyons. Download offline maps.
- Laundry and showers: coin laundries in Durango, Telluride and Ouray; showers in state parks and private sites.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: pass stretches mostly 35–55, Million Dollar Highway often 20–35, in built-up areas 25–35. Wildlife on the road at night.
- Dimensions and lengths: US 550 is drivable for motorhomes, but narrow without guard rails; towing outfits and long vehicles should take care on the switchbacks and in the tunnels, using passing places. Legal maximum height in the USA is mostly 13 ft 6 in (4.11 m).
- Reservations: state park sites via Colorado Parks and Wildlife, Forest Service sites via Recreation.gov; autumn weekends (aspen foliage) and the time of the Telluride festivals are popular, so book early.
- Admission: Durango & Silverton Railroad, Ouray Hot Springs and Box Canyon Falls charge admission; since 2026, visitors without US residence face partly higher fees in heavily visited national parks – only relevant if you add Mesa Verde; check amounts on nps.gov.
- Altitude and weather: passes above 3,000 m (Coal Bank, Molas, Red Mountain, Lizard Head); snow is possible from the end of September, in winter closures and avalanche control. Check the current status on cotrip.org.
- Traffic law for travellers: turning right on red after stopping is allowed unless prohibited; open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited. A German driving licence is enough, an international one is often recommended. Child seat and seat belt requirements also apply in a motorhome.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception is patchy on the passes. Do not linger on passes or ridges during thunderstorms.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Warm layers and a hat: at night the temperature on the passes drops to a few degrees above freezing even in summer.
- Wheel chocks and coolant: the climbs and descents above 3,000 m put heavy strain on engine and brakes.
- Offline maps, a paper map and reservation documents: there is hardly any reception on the passes.
- Rain jacket and gloves: afternoon thunderstorms and hail are frequent in summer.
- Water containers (20 l) and a water filter: Forest Service sites often have no water.
- Torch and emergency kit: on US 550 closures and waits can occur in the dark.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
