In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Benbulben and Sliabh Liag via Glenveagh and Malin Head to Derry, then along the Causeway Coastal Route to Belfast: about 675 kilometres, one border crossing without a barrier and the switch from kilometres to miles.
The spirit of the route
In the northwest of Ireland the weather is made, and you are sitting right in the middle of it. Beyond Sligo the flat-topped Benbulben stands over the pastures like an upturned ship, in Donegal the cliffs of Sliabh Liag drop almost 600 metres sheer into the Atlantic, and the roads turn narrow, lined with dry-stone walls and guarded by sheep. From your sliding door you see bog in rust red and violet, rainbows by the minute and, at Malin Head, nothing but water all the way to Scotland. Near Derry you cross the border that is no longer one: suddenly the signs show miles, prices are in pounds, and the coast road runs past castle ruins, fishing villages and the hexagonal basalt columns of the Giant’s Causeway. This route depends on patience, warm clothing and days without hurry, and on evenings when the wind drops and the coast turns golden.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Sligo to Donegal Town (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- From Sligo take the N15 north past the foot of Benbulben, through Drumcliff and Bundoran to Ballyshannon, then on into the south of County Donegal as far as Donegal Town. A well-built national road with few narrow village streets, about 1.5 hours of driving. Expect tractors and lorry traffic.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Benbulben and Drumcliff: the church with Yeats’ grave lies directly beneath the flat-topped mountain; roadside parking at the church is very limited.
- Glencar Waterfall, a short detour from Drumcliff, with a well-kept woodland path to the falls.
- Donegal Castle in the centre of Donegal Town and the “Diamond” square with shops, cafés and a small market.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Rosses Point Caravan & Camping Park north of Sligo with views over Sligo Bay, and Strandhill Caravan & Camping Park on the Atlantic beach west of the town. Southwest of Donegal Town, Boortree Rossnowlagh Touring & Camping Park near the long sandy beach at Rossnowlagh offers electricity and sanitary facilities. Both areas often have limited opening outside the season, so in autumn phone ahead.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): There is no right to wild camp in the Republic of Ireland; overnighting in a motorhome in car parks is banned by bylaw in several municipalities, and many beach and harbour car parks carry no-camper signs or height barriers. Only campsites and designated motorhome pitches are legally safe. For visits to Benbulben: parking at the walkers’ car park is possible during the day, but overnight stays are not intended.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up and shop in Sligo before heading north: beyond Donegal Town, shops, fuel stations and disposal points become sparse. The N15 is mostly easy driving, but the road through Bundoran is slow on summer weekends, so start early.
2Stage 2: Donegal Town to Teelin (Sliabh Liag) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- Take the N56 west through Mountcharles and Dunkineely to Killybegs, then the R263 via Kilcar to Carrick and on to the village of Teelin at the foot of the cliffs. From Killybegs the road is narrower and winding, often with tractors and day-trip traffic in early autumn; for the last few kilometres to the viewpoint, do not drive up in a large motorhome. About 1.25 hours of driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Killybegs, one of Ireland’s largest fishing ports, with trawlers in the harbour basin and a smell of fishmeal when the wind is from the south.
- Sliabh Liag (Slieve League): cliffs about 600 m high at the Bunglass viewpoint; walk from the visitor centre at Teelin to the viewpoint, or higher towards One Man’s Pass only in good visibility.
- Kilcar and Carrick: tweed shops and the view over Teelin Bay.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Sliabh Liag Camping near Teelin, a simple site close to the beach with pitches for tents and motorhomes; Killybegs Holiday Park on the harbour road is a larger alternative. Ask about facilities and the end of the season before arriving; in October many coastal sites are already closed.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Sliabh Liag too: no overnighting in the visitor car parks or on the narrow access road, where motorhomes would block the way. The road to the Bunglass viewpoint has parking bays for cars; ask at the visitor centre on site about current access for motorhomes.
- Insider tip for campers
- Leave the motorhome in Teelin and go to the viewpoint on foot or by shuttle: the road to the Bunglass car park is narrow, steep and, with sheep and oncoming traffic, has very poor visibility. Strong winds or fog can restrict access; check the weather in the morning.
3Stage 3: Teelin to Dunlewey (Errigal) (approx. 110 km)
- The drive
- From Teelin via Carrick and Ardara to Glenties, then on via Doochary through the lonely moorland of the Derryveagh Mountains to the coast at Gweedore and to Dunlewey at the foot of Errigal. Partly the N56 national road, partly regional road with potholes and narrow stretches; about 2 hours of pure driving time, half a day with photo stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Assaranca Waterfall near Ardara: a small waterfall right beside the road towards Maghera, with a short walk to the sand dunes of Maghera.
- Errigal (749 m), Donegal’s highest mountain, a striking quartzite cone; the ascent from the car park on the R251 takes about 2 hours there and back.
- Poisoned Glen (Dunlewey) with the ruined church in front of the rock faces, a popular photo spot.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Between Dungloe and Gweedore there are several campsites on the coast, for example Sleepy Hollow and Dungloe Caravan Park (according to the OpenStreetMap entry); check both in advance for opening times, motorhome suitability and electricity. If you want to stay in Dunlewey, you will find small hostels and B&Bs with parking there, but no larger motorhome site.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The area is one of the Gaeltacht regions with little infrastructure; parking at the roadside on the narrow regional roads is out of the question anyway. At the Errigal car park, stop only during the day; overnight rest at the car park is not intended, and local residents are sensitive about it.
- Insider tip for campers
- There are no major service points between Glenties and Gweedore: fill up with fuel and water and check your gas in Glenties or Dungloe. In fog, make no photo stops in the bends of the N56; there are only a few passing places.
4Stage 4: Dunlewey to Malin Head (approx. 130 km)
- The drive
- From Dunlewey take the R251 past Dunlewey Lough, then down to Glenveagh and Church Hill, via Letterkenny and the N13 to the Inishowen peninsula with Buncrana, Clonmany and Carndonagh, as far as Malin Head. The route is varied: moorland roads, town traffic in Letterkenny, then coast road. A good 2.5 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Glenveagh National Park: visitor centre, shuttle bus to Glenveagh Castle with its gardens, walking trails at Lough Veagh; red deer in autumn.
- Grianan of Aileach: an Iron Age ringfort on a rise beside the N13 near Burt, with wide views over Lough Foyle and Lough Swilly.
- Malin Head: Ireland’s northernmost point with Banba’s Crown, signal tower and the rock chasm “Hell’s Hole”.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Binnion Bay Caravan & Camping Facility on the north coast of Inishowen between Ballyliffin and Malin Head; a small site, so ask about facilities and season in advance. Alternatively, on the Fanad peninsula (a detour west of Letterkenny) there are Portsalon Camping and Knockalla Caravan & Camping near the beach. In autumn many of these sites may be closed.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Overnighting in a motorhome is not allowed in Glenveagh National Park; only wilderness tenting on foot is permitted, reportedly with a minimum distance from the visitor centre, so check the rules with the park. At Malin Head the car parks at the viewpoint and at Banba’s Crown are closed overnight or monitored; wind and fog also make the headland unpleasant. On Inishowen, as everywhere in the Republic, there is no right to wild camp.
- Insider tip for campers
- Do not take a motorhome over the Mamore Gap (a very steep, narrow pass near Clonmany); if you reach Buncrana, stay on the R238 and the R244 towards Carndonagh. Letterkenny has several supermarkets and fuel stations, so stock up here once more.
5Stage 5: Malin Head to Benone (via Derry) (approx. 135 km)
- The drive
- From Malin Head via Carndonagh and Culdaff along the east coast of Inishowen to Moville and Quigley’s Point, then via Muff and the border to Derry–Londonderry. From there continue on the A2 towards Limavady and to the coast at Benone. When you cross the border, speed limits change from km/h to mph. About 2.5 hours of driving.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Derry–Londonderry: the largely preserved 17th-century city walls, the Peace Bridge, the Guildhall and the murals of the Bogside.
- Magilligan Point and Binevenagh: viewpoints over the long beach at Benone, with a view back to Donegal.
- Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne (National Trust) on the nearby stretch of coast between Benone and Castlerock.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Benone Tourist Complex (Causeway Coast and Glens Borough Council) on the miles-long beach with pitches for motorhomes and caravans; several plots according to OSM, so check facilities and opening times in advance. In Derry itself there is no large campsite in the city; motorhomes usually overnight outside it.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): There is no right to roam in Northern Ireland: wild camping without the landowner’s permission is illegal. Parking in cities such as Derry is possible during the day, but overnighting in a vehicle in residential areas or public car parks is not tolerated. National Trust car parks such as Downhill do not permit overnight stays.
- Insider tip for campers
- Driving into Derry city centre in a motorhome is tiresome because of narrow streets and the height limits of some multi-storey car parks; use park and ride or large car parks on the edge of town. If you want to skip Derry: the Lough Foyle ferry Greencastle–Magilligan takes motorhomes, but runs seasonally (in 2026 summer service until mid-September, winter timetable not confirmed): in October expect it to have stopped, and check operation in advance.
6Stage 6: Benone to Ballycastle (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- From Benone via Coleraine and Bushmills on the A2 and the B146 to the Giant’s Causeway, then on via Ballintoy to Ballycastle. A well-built coast road with short narrow spots in the villages, about 1.5 hours of driving without stops; a whole day with sightseeing.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Dunluce Castle: a clifftop castle right beside the coast road, with a view of the legendary ruin on its rock.
- Giant’s Causeway: around 40,000 hexagonal basalt columns, a UNESCO World Heritage Site; the coastal paths are freely accessible on foot, while the visitor centre (National Trust) requires a ticket.
- Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge and the harbour at Ballintoy; booking a time slot with the National Trust in advance is compulsory (online sales end one hour before the slot); motorhomes are welcome, but parking is limited and overnight stays are not allowed.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Ballyness Caravan Park near Bushmills and Bush Caravan Park in Bushmills (about 50 pitches with electricity according to OSM) are close to the Giant’s Causeway. Near Ballycastle, Watertop Camping (inland near Ballyvoy) is an option, plus several caravan parks. Check opening times in autumn, as many parks close in October.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Overnighting in the car parks at the Giant’s Causeway is not allowed; the access roads are patrolled. Along the Causeway Coastal Route the same rules apply as throughout Northern Ireland: no wild camping without permission, not even in bays or viewpoint car parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- Traffic restrictions have been introduced or discussed for the Dark Hedges (Bregagh Road, beech avenue); the current status is not confirmed, so follow the signs on site and approach on foot. At the Giant’s Causeway, ask the National Trust in advance about car park height and length for large motorhomes; arriving early avoids the coaches.
7Stage 7: Ballycastle to Belfast (approx. 105 km)
- The drive
- Take the A2, the legendary Antrim Coast Road, south from Ballycastle via Cushendun, Cushendall, Glenariff, Carnlough, Glenarm and Larne, then via Carrickfergus to Belfast. The road follows the sea closely with winding stretches and heavy traffic in Larne and before Belfast; about 2.5 hours of driving, considerably longer with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Cushendun: a National Trust village with white houses, a beach and caves at the end of the bay.
- Glenariff Forest Park: waterfalls in the “Queen of the Glens of Antrim”, with a walking trail to the falls.
- Belfast: Titanic Belfast, the Cathedral Quarter and the murals of the Falls Road.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Cushendall Caravan Holiday Park and Cushendun Caravan Park on the Antrim coast; for Belfast, Dundonald Touring Caravan Park on the edge of the city is a base with a connection into town. Confirm opening times, motorhome suitability and pitch availability by phone in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Belfast and on the Antrim Coast Road, free camping in a motorhome is not allowed; car parks in the city and at viewpoints are monitored. If you stay a night in Belfast, you are better off using a site on the edge of the city with a bus or train connection.
- Insider tip for campers
- Do not drive a motorhome into Belfast city centre: narrow streets, car parks with height barriers, bus lanes. Use the bus and rail connections from the edge of the city.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Republic of Ireland: no general right to wild camp. Parking is allowed where it is not prohibited, but overnighting in a vehicle on roads, in car parks and at viewpoints is increasingly banned by bylaw (no-camper signs, height barriers). In Donegal and Sligo you risk fines and being moved on; noise, litter and waste disposal are points of dispute with local residents.
- Northern Ireland: wild camping without the owner’s permission is illegal; there is no right to roam. National Trust car parks (Giant’s Causeway, Downhill, Carrick-a-Rede, Cushendun) and forest parks are not designed for overnight stays.
- You can stay legally on campsites and caravan parks and at a few council-owned pitches. Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact, the platforms of Fáilte Ireland and Discover Northern Ireland, and the region’s camping clubs.
- Many sites close in October; in September 2026, clarify opening times for October and November in advance. Midges are less fierce in Donegal and Antrim than in Scotland, but possible on windless evenings, so pack insect repellent.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Services and disposal: disposal points (“dump points”, “Elsan points”) are thin on the ground in Donegal; they are usually at campsites or harbours. Before long stages, check water and disposal at campsites or fuel stations with a service point.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at designated places; wild dumping leads to bans for everyone.
- Gas: Calor Gas is the usual brand in Ireland and Northern Ireland; German exchange cylinders are not swapped, and the connections differ. Bring two full cylinders or a refillable system. Autogas (LPG) is rare in Ireland.
- Drinking water is generally good in both countries; at wells and springs, look out for signs.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Border crossing: there are no fixed checks between the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, but you are leaving the EU. EU citizens who do not hold Irish citizenship need an electronic travel authorisation (ETA) for the United Kingdom, including Northern Ireland; Irish and British citizens are exempt. The fee has been £20 since 8 April 2026 (previously £16), and the ETA is valid for two years. That the requirement also applies when crossing by land from the Republic to Northern Ireland is confirmed only by secondary sources, so check the requirement and fee on gov.uk before travelling. Carry your passport or ID card, driving licence and vehicle documents.
- Insurance: whether a Green Card is required for your EU-registered vehicle in Northern Ireland has not been conclusively clarified. Before travelling, have your insurer confirm in writing that Northern Ireland (United Kingdom) is included, and carry this confirmation (and the Green Card if needed). If you are towing a trailer, check its cover as well.
- Currency: the euro is used in the Republic, the British pound in Northern Ireland; Northern Irish bank notes are hard to exchange outside the United Kingdom. Card payment is widespread, but still plan for some cash in both currencies.
- Speed limits, Republic of Ireland (km/h): motorway 120, national road 100, regional road 80, built-up area 50, special zones 30; with a caravan or trailer, 80 km/h at most (RSA). For motorhomes over 3,500 kg, lower limits may apply, so clarify in advance. Northern Ireland (mph) follows the British pattern: motorhomes up to 3.05 t unladen weight 30 mph in built-up areas, 60 mph on single carriageway roads, 70 mph on dual carriageways and motorways; heavier motorhomes 50 mph on single carriageway roads, 60 mph on dual carriageways, 70 mph on motorways; vehicles towing 50 mph on single carriageway roads, 60 mph on dual carriageways and motorways. The signs, which show mph from the border onwards, always take precedence; your speedometer shows km/h, so practise converting (30 mph is about 48 km/h, 60 mph about 97 km/h).
- Drive on the left, roundabouts clockwise; use passing places on narrow roads in good time. Adjust your headlights for left-hand traffic or use beam deflector stickers; fit extra mirrors on the right-hand side if necessary.
- Dimensions: motorhomes registered in Great Britain are limited to 12 m in length and 2.55 m in width; for the Republic of Ireland the maximum dimensions are not confirmed here, the rule of thumb is the same. Watch for height barriers at car parks in advance, especially at viewpoints and in towns. There are no toll roads on the route (the M50 and Dublin Port Tunnel lie off it).
- Alcohol: Republic of Ireland 0.5 per mille (50 mg/100 ml blood); Northern Ireland 0.8 per mille (80 mg/100 ml); best not to drink at all. Using a phone at the wheel is allowed in both countries only with a hands-free kit. Winter tyres are not compulsory, but make sense in autumn and winter when there is frost.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Weatherproof clothing with a rain jacket, hat and gloves: wind and showers change by the minute in Donegal, and it is cool on Sliabh Liag and Malin Head even in summer.
- Insect repellent and a head net for windless evenings: there are midges in Donegal and Antrim too, especially into October.
- CEE adapter cable to type G and an extension cable with a polarity tester: both countries use 230 V with type G sockets, and campsites usually have blue CEE connections; check polarity before connecting.
- Levelling ramps and traction mats for soggy grass pitches: many campsites are on soft ground, and motorhomes sink quickly.
- Paper or offline maps and a sat nav with vehicle height: mobile coverage in Donegal is patchy, and height barriers at car parks are common.
- Printed ETA confirmation, insurance confirmation with Northern Ireland cover, and euros plus pounds in cash.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
