In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
Around 460 kilometres from Kendal via Windermere, Eskdale, Keswick and Ullswater to the Settle–Carlisle line, Hawes and Malham: a left-hand-drive loop on narrow roads where you will be watching your mirrors more than the miles.
The spirit of the route
The north of England is driven slowly, and that is its charm. Between dry-stone walls, sheep and bracken slopes, roads wind along that were laid out for horse carts; the wall on your left, the mirror of an oncoming vehicle on your right, and a wave at every passing place that after three days you return without thinking. The Lake District is small, steep and wet: clouds hang on Helvellyn and Skiddaw, light breaks across Windermere, Derwentwater and Ullswater between the showers, and in late summer the fells glow purple with heather. Beyond the M6 it becomes wider and barer. In the Dales a train climbs over the Ribblehead Viaduct, water plunges over limestone at Hardraw Force, and above Malham Cove a limestone pavement lies like an open book. Wild camping is not provided for in England; instead there are farm campsites where the sheep wander past your motorhome in the morning. This route demands patience, narrow vehicles and respect for gradients.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Kendal to Bowness-on-Windermere (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Kendal take the A591 briskly towards Windermere, then the A5074 down to Bowness. It is a wide, well-built road; the difficulties only begin in Bowness itself: narrow lanes, lots of pedestrians, one-way systems. Allow about 45 minutes. The first left-hand-drive stage is deliberately short – roundabouts are taken clockwise, and whoever is already on the roundabout has priority.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Orrest Head above Windermere: a short climb (around 30 minutes) from the station road, with a wide view over England’s largest lake.
- The lakeside promenade and steamers at Bowness; the vehicle ferry to Far Sawrey leads to the quieter west shore.
- Blackwell, the Arts and Crafts house above the lake, as a rainy-day destination.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Bowness on Windermere Camping and Caravanning Club Site on the east shore, with lake access, electric hook-up, toilets and showers, and service point; check with the club in advance whether non-members can book, the length limit and opening in October. Alternatively, near Windermere, the site on Ratherheath Lane. Book early in summer and during school holidays; even in October weekends are well booked.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Outside campsites, overnighting in a motorhome in Windermere and Bowness is not provided for; the national park authority names campsites as the only legal places to stay, and camping in car parks and on roadsides is never allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- Leave the motorhome on the site and take the bus or a bike into town. Many pay-and-display car parks have height barriers, and motorhome spaces are limited. Before heading into the fells, fill up and shop in Kendal; the supermarkets there are bigger and cheaper than in the side valleys.
2Stage 2: Bowness-on-Windermere to Eskdale / Ravenglass (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- Via Ambleside and Skelwith Bridge to Little Langdale. Here the ways part: the short route over Wrynose Pass (around 25% gradient) and Hardknott Pass (up to 1:3, so a good 30%) to Eskdale is much shorter, but single-track, with tight hairpins and unprotected drops, and unsuitable for large motorhomes and combinations. The pass is closed at times (for example for roadworks in November 2025); ask Cumberland Council for the current status before you set off. We recommend the long route around Coniston and Broughton in Furness via the A593 and A595 to Ravenglass (about 80 kilometres, a good 2 hours). From Hardknott Fort you can explore the top of the pass on foot.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Hardknott Roman Fort (Mediobogium) on the pass, with views to the coast: reachable from Eskdale by car or on foot.
- Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway (“La’al Ratty”), a narrow-gauge railway from Ravenglass to Dalegarth, with stops for walks.
- Muncaster Castle near Ravenglass, with grounds and an owl centre.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Ravenglass, the Ravenglass Camping & Caravanning Club Site (electric hook-up, toilets and showers, service point); in Eskdale itself, Eskdale Campsite and other farm sites, which are probably geared more towards tents and smaller vehicles. Check by phone beforehand about non-members, length limits and access.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No free camping. The road to Hardknott Pass has no suitable car park for overnighting; staying overnight in a vehicle outside campsites counts as “fly camping” in the national park and is unwelcome.
- Insider tip for campers
- If you want to drive Hardknott and Wrynose in a small van: only in dry weather, never in ice, wet or fog, with checked brakes and enough engine power for 1:3. Plan passing places in advance; under the Highway Code, whoever is driving uphill generally has priority. If in doubt, take the A595 route.
3Stage 3: Eskdale / Ravenglass to Keswick (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- Take the A595 north along the coast, past the Sellafield site, then Egremont and Cockermouth; from there either on the A66 or via the B5292 Whinlatter Pass (winding, but with passing places, feasible for medium-length motorhomes, not for combinations) to Keswick. Allow around 2 hours. The coast road is wide; traffic on the A66 is dense at weekends.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Wordsworth House in Cockermouth, the poet’s birthplace, with a garden on the River Derwent.
- Bassenthwaite Lake: photo stop at the lay-bys on the A66; in summer ospreys breed around Dodd Wood (viewing station, seasonal).
- Castlerigg Stone Circle above Keswick: a good 5,000 years old, with all-round views of Skiddaw and Blencathra, most beautiful in the morning hours.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Keswick Camping and Caravanning Club Site (near Derwentwater, within walking distance of the town, electric hook-up, toilets and showers, service point) or Castlerigg Farm Camping and Caravan Site with views of the lake and the fells; check electric hook-up, length limit and opening in October in advance. Both fill up quickly in high season and the autumn holidays, so reservation is advisable.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Camping in car parks and on roadsides is never allowed in the national park. Parking at the roadside without causing an obstruction is mostly tolerated, but the police can ask you to move on at any time; landowners and operators can impose bans and issue parking fines.
- Insider tip for campers
- Some car parks in Keswick have height barriers; there are only a few suitable spaces for motorhomes; check the town’s current parking rules in advance. If you want to climb Catbells, take the ferry service on Derwentwater rather than parking on the narrow lakeside road.
4Stage 4: Keswick to Ullswater (Pooley Bridge) (approx. 36 km)
- The drive
- Take the A66 east via Threlkeld, then at Penrith join the A592 to the lake. The A592 is wide enough for motorhomes as far as Pooley Bridge; along the west shore towards Glenridding it becomes narrower and more winding. The route over Kirkstone Pass (gradients up to about 25%) is not recommended for large motorhomes and combinations. Allow about 1 hour.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ullswater Steamers: boat trips between Pooley Bridge, Howtown and Glenridding, returning on foot along the lakeshore.
- Aira Force near Watermillock: a waterfall in a wooded gorge, a short walk from the National Trust car park.
- Gowbarrow Fell and the circular walk to Lyulph’s Tower, with views of the lake.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Park Foot Caravan and Camping Park on Howtown Road near Pooley Bridge, with electric hook-up, toilets and showers, and service point; Troutbeck Head (Caravan and Motorhome Club) at Troutbeck near the A66, not directly on the lake. Alternatively Gillside Caravan Park in Glenridding. Check about non-members, length limits and October opening at all sites in advance; they are well booked in season.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping is not possible here; the car parks on the lakeshore, at Aira Force and in Glenridding are intended for day visitors and carry prohibition signs; staying overnight in a vehicle outside campsites is not allowed.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Glenridding and Patterdale there are only a few car parking spaces for motorhomes; better to stay on the campsite and use the boats. The access to the Hartsop valley is narrow. Fill up with water in Pooley Bridge and shop in the quiet village by the bridge.
5Stage 5: Ullswater (Pooley Bridge) to Hawes (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- Via Penrith on the A66 east as far as Appleby-in-Westmorland, on to Kirkby Stephen and along the B6259 through the Mallerstang valley, always parallel to the Settle–Carlisle line, then on the A684 to Hawes. The B6259 is narrow and winding, with dry-stone walls on both sides; large motorhomes are better off diverting via the M6 to junction 37 and the A684 via Sedbergh to Hawes. About 2 to 2.5 hours; considerably longer via the M6.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Appleby-in-Westmorland and Kirkby Stephen: stations on the Settle–Carlisle line, as a starting point for part of the route by train.
- Pendragon Castle in the Mallerstang valley: the ruin of a medieval castle on the River Eden.
- Hardraw Force near Hawes: a waterfall reached through the Green Dragon Inn, admission charge.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Hawes Caravan Club Site (Caravan and Motorhome Club; check beforehand about non-members, length limit and October opening) or Honeycott Caravan Park on the road to Hardraw. Further farm sites lie in Wensleydale; ask in advance about access widths and October opening.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The same applies in the Yorkshire Dales National Park as in the Lake District: wild camping with a vehicle is not allowed, and car parks in Hawes carry signs against overnighting. On private land you need the owner’s permission.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up and shop in Penrith before setting off; in the Dales, shops and petrol stations become scarce and more expensive. Market day in Hawes is Tuesday; then the road through the town is full, and the Wensleydale Creamery is a magnet for coaches. Sound the horn on the crests, keep an eye on the rear-view mirror and give a friendly wave.
6Stage 6: Hawes to Malham (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- Take the B6255 through Widdale and Ribblesdale to the Ribblehead Viaduct, then on to Horton in Ribblesdale and the B6479 to Settle; from there via Kirkby Malham to Malham. The B6255 is mostly two-lane with passing places; the approach to Malham is tight, with walls right at the edge of the carriageway and crests with no view. Allow around 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ribblehead Viaduct: 24 arches, around 400 metres long and up to about 32 metres high, part of the Settle–Carlisle line, best photographed with a train; roadside parking, check on the spot for room for large vehicles.
- Malham Cove: a limestone cliff with a limestone pavement on top, climb by steps from Malham (around 1 hour there and back).
- Gordale Scar and Janet’s Foss: a gorge and a small waterfall in the woods, as a circular walk from Malham.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Riverside Campsite in Malham on Malham Beck, in the middle of the village, with toilets and showers, but probably without comprehensive motorhome facilities; ask beforehand about access, vehicle length and October opening. As an alternative near Settle, Langcliffe Park (caravan park) or Knight Stainforth Hall campsite on the Ribble; check length limits and October opening in advance.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Around Malham, staying overnight in a vehicle outside the campsite is not provided for; the national park car park in the village is intended for day visitors and charges a fee, and the village streets are narrow.
- Insider tip for campers
- Leave the motorhome on the site in Malham: the village street is unpleasant for large vehicles. If you want to use the train, take the line from Settle to Ribblehead or Dent (the highest station on the main network in England) and back; tickets at Settle station, check the timetable in advance.
7Stage 7: Malham to Kendal (approx. 95 km)
- The drive
- Via Settle and Clapham on the A65 to Ingleton, then Kirkby Lonsdale and on to Kendal, on the A65 throughout. Mostly wide and well built, with a few tight sections in Kirkby Lonsdale. About 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Settle: a market town on the Ribble, with a station with a Victorian-style waiting room, market on Tuesdays.
- Ingleton Waterfalls Trail: a circular walk through gorges and woodland with several waterfalls, admission charge, about 4 hours.
- Ingleborough Cave near Clapham: a cave that can be visited on guided tours at fixed times.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Kendal the Camping and Caravanning Club site or Sizergh Caravan & Camping at Sizergh Castle (National Trust) south of the town; check about non-members, length limits and October opening in advance. Further sites lie around Windermere.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No free camping: in Kendal and Kirkby Lonsdale there are car parks with a time limit, but no permission to stay overnight. If you are continuing on to the ferry or tunnel afterwards, plan stopovers on campsites.
- Insider tip for campers
- The road through Kirkby Lonsdale is tight; for parking at Devil’s Bridge, check times and charges in advance. Before leaving, stock up on gas, toilet fluid and food in Kendal.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- There is no general right to roam for motorhomes in England. Staying overnight in a vehicle outside campsites is only possible with the landowner’s permission; the Lake District national park authority names campsites as the only legal places to stay and describes overnighting in a vehicle elsewhere as “fly camping”. On access land, common land and rights of way you may neither drive nor park overnight. Many car parks carry “No overnight parking” or “No camping” signs.
- The special arrangement for tents on Dartmoor (southern England) does not apply here. Wild camping in the Lake District is “technically not allowed” but is tolerated under conditions (above the highest fell wall, one night, small tent, no fire); motorhomes and caravans are expressly excluded.
- Parking is not camping: parking at the roadside or in a lay-by without causing an obstruction is mostly accepted in the Lake District, but the police can ask you to move on at any time; camping in car parks and on roadsides is never allowed. The national park authority does not name fixed fine amounts; the consequences range from being asked to leave to parking penalties from operators and local authorities.
- You can reliably stay overnight on campsites, farm sites and sites of the Caravan and Motorhome Club and the Camping and Caravanning Club (whether non-members can book is up to each site; check beforehand). Apps and sources: park4night, Campercontact, Pitchup, the clubs’ websites.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Waste disposal is called an “Elsan point” or “chemical toilet disposal point”; grey water goes to the “waste water disposal” station. Many sites have both; it is best to check public stations in advance using an app.
- Drinking water at campsites; on the road at petrol stations and service points. A hose of your own with “Hozelock”-type adapters makes filling easier.
- Gas: German cylinders can generally not be exchanged in Great Britain. Calor Gas cylinders (butane and propane) have their own connections. If you are staying a long time, use a tank or refillable-cylinder solution (autogas/LPG connections are rarer in Great Britain than in Germany); Camping Gaz is available in outdoor shops.
- The Eurotunnel and ferries restrict carrying gas (shut-off valves closed, quantity limits): read the operator’s conditions in advance.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Entry: German and EU citizens need an electronic travel authorisation (ETA) for Great Britain, online via the official GOV.UK site, fee £20 since 8 April 2026 (previously £16), valid for two years or until the new passport. Without an ETA, carriage is refused. A passport is required; an ID card is not sufficient.
- Vehicle: carry your driving licence and registration document. Have insurance cover for the United Kingdom confirmed in writing in advance and ask your insurer whether a green card must be carried. The German Euro plate with “D” is generally sufficient as the country identifier; adjust the headlights for left-hand traffic (beam deflector film or adjustment).
- Imports: for personal use from the EU, fish, poultry, eggs and honey, among other things, are permitted. Pork, beef, lamb and goat meat, including sausage, and all dairy products (cheese, milk, butter, yoghurt) may not be brought in; exception: up to 2 kg of milk powder, infant or special medical food per person in unopened branded packaging. Dogs: check in advance on gov.uk which document applies for entry (pet passport or animal health certificate). A vet must treat the dog for tapeworm 24 to 120 hours before entry and record this (exception: entry directly from Finland, Ireland, Northern Ireland, Malta, Norway).
- Left-hand traffic: roundabouts clockwise, priority to those already on the roundabout. On narrow roads with passing places, whoever has the passing place on their left pulls in; if it is on the right, you wait opposite it. Do not park in the passing place. Additional mirrors make driving easier.
- Speed limits in mph (by unladen weight): cars and motorhomes up to 3.05 t 60 on country roads, 70 on dual carriageways and motorways; motorhomes over 3.05 t unladen weight 50 on single carriageways and 60 on dual carriageways, 70 on motorways; cars towing caravans 50, 60 and 60. In built-up areas usually 30.
- Dimensions: maximum width 2.55 m, motorhome length 12 m; height information on signs is in feet and inches (e.g. 10’6” = 3.20 m), watch for bridges. There are no tolls for cars and motorhomes on the route and no low-emission zone (Clean Air Zones such as Bradford’s lie away from the route; check before driving there).
- Alcohol: the limit in England is 0.8 per mille (80 mg per 100 ml of blood), lower in Scotland – recommendation: abstain completely. Using a mobile phone at the wheel is prohibited, including as a hand-held navigation device. Winter tyres are not compulsory; snow chains are rarely needed there.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Additional exterior mirrors or wide-angle mirrors: on narrow roads with walls and oncoming traffic, lateral clearance is crucial.
- Headlight beam deflector film or switchable headlights for left-hand traffic, plus a British plug adapter (type G) for electricity on campsites.
- Rain jacket, waterproof walking boots and a hat: in the fells the weather changes within minutes, even in summer.
- Ordnance Survey maps OL4 to OL7 (Lake District) and OL2 and OL30 (Yorkshire Dales) for walks, plus an offline map pack, as mobile reception is patchy in the valleys.
- Mains cable with CEE adapter (blue plug) for British site sockets; cable length at least 25 metres.
- Insect protection and mosquito repellent for autumn evenings by the lakes (moor and water), plus a moisture absorber against damp in the vehicle.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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