In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Bergerac via Brantôme, the Vézère valley and Sarlat to the cliffside villages of the Dordogne, then on to Rocamadour, Padirac and through the Lot valley to Figeac: around 485 km on narrow valley roads, where choosing where to stop matters more than driving time.
The spirit of the route
In the Périgord you drive slowly because the landscape demands it. Beyond Brantôme the limestone country narrows, and the Vézère cuts in beneath sheer cliffs where people painted horses and aurochs 17,000 years ago and where whole villages clung to the rock in the Middle Ages. In the morning mist lies over the river, and canoes drift past the castles of Beynac and Castelnaud, which face each other across the valley just as they did 800 years ago. Through the sliding door you smell walnut trees, damp limestone and the wood fire of a farmhouse. Beyond Souillac the Causses begin: dry uplands of scrub oak, dry-stone walls and stone huts, with chasms such as Padirac and Rocamadour beneath them. The Lot valley, finally, is quieter, its loops wider, its villages higher. This route rewards early starts, short stages and a willingness to leave the motorhome at the edge of town and walk the last stretch.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Bergerac to Brantôme (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- From Bergerac take the D709 north through vineyards and oak woods to Périgueux (a good 45 minutes), skirt the city and continue on the D939 towards Brantôme; the detour via Bourdeilles on narrower departmental roads along the Dronne is prettier. Mostly well-built roads, with tight village centres in Bourdeilles and Brantôme. About 1.5 hours of pure driving time.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Périgueux: Saint-Front cathedral with its domes and the Gallo-Roman museum Vesunna; walk to the old town from the motorhome aire on the Isle.
- Château de Bourdeilles high above the Dronne, with a medieval keep and a Renaissance wing.
- Brantôme: abbey with cave chapels in the limestone cliff and the angled bridge over the Dronne – photograph it in the evening at the mill weir.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Brantôme Peyrelevade on the bank of the Dronne east of the town centre, with electricity, sanitary facilities and service point, about a 15-minute walk to the abbey; open seasonally, check the dates in advance. For a night without a campsite there is the motorhome area in the Vert Galant car park (P3) on the edge of town, and a CAMPING-CAR-PARK pitch in Bourdeilles (access by card at the terminal).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Where parking is allowed, a motorhome may in principle also park overnight in France – as a vehicle, without camping behaviour. In Brantôme and Bourdeilles, however, the municipalities direct motorhomes to dedicated areas; at the riverside car parks in the centre there are prohibition signs or height barriers. No wild camping on the Dronne.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Périgueux the Espace des Prés aire lies on the Isle, about 10 minutes on foot below the cathedral – good for a stroll through town before moving on. Market days in Périgueux are Wednesday and Saturday; the old town is packed then. Fill up before Brantôme: the supermarket petrol stations in Périgueux are much cheaper than the few pumps in the countryside.
2Stage 2: Brantôme to Montignac (Lascaux) (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- Via Saint-Jean-de-Côle and Thiviers through the quiet Périgord vert, then via Excideuil to Hautefort and down through hill country with walnut groves into the Vézère valley to Montignac. Almost entirely departmental roads, winding, with short climbs but no real bottlenecks; drive slowly in the villages. About 2 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Saint-Jean-de-Côle: village square with covered market, château and humpback bridge over the Côle.
- Château de Hautefort on its hill with a French garden and wide views over the Périgord.
- Lascaux IV – Centre international de l’art pariétal in Montignac: an almost complete replica of the cave, closed to visitors since 1963; timed tickets, book online in advance in summer.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Aire communale de camping-car of Montignac-Lascaux in the village with service point, within walking distance of the bridge and the restaurants. If you prefer a campsite: Camping Le Moulin de Bleufond on the bank of the Vézère south of the centre, with electricity, sanitary facilities and a pool, seasonal.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Your motorhome is fine during the day in the visitor car park of Lascaux IV, but overnight stays are not intended there. The Vézère valley between Montignac and Les Eyzies is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with numerous protected sites; around Monuments historiques and in Sites classés, camping is prohibited under French planning law. So do not plan on wild camping.
- Insider tip for campers
- The drive to Lascaux IV leads briefly uphill out of Montignac; the visitor car park is generously laid out. Montignac has a market on Wednesdays and Saturdays, when the riverside road is narrow. Canoe hire firms in the village offer trips on the calm Vézère with a return shuttle – a good alternative to the crowded Dordogne in August.
3Stage 3: Montignac to Les Eyzies (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- Take the D706 down the Vézère via Thonac, Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère, Peyzac-le-Moustier and Tursac to Les Eyzies. The road follows the river beneath high limestone cliffs, in places under far-overhanging rock; with a tall vehicle keep to the middle and drive slowly where oncoming traffic allows. Pure driving time under an hour, a full day with sightseeing.
- Highlights & must-sees
- La Roque-Saint-Christophe: a rock terrace several kilometres long with dwelling caves from prehistory to the Middle Ages, with views over the valley.
- Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère: Romanesque church right on the river, a small village to catch your breath.
- Les Eyzies: the Musée national de Préhistoire beneath the cliff face and the Grotte de Font-de-Gaume with original polychrome paintings – very limited visitor numbers, reserve in good time.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping La Rivière on the edge of Les Eyzies on the Vézère, with electricity, sanitary facilities, pool and service point, a few minutes’ walk to the centre; seasonal. Next to it is the Camping-Car Park Les Eyzies aire (electricity, service point, access by card at the terminal). A quieter aire is in Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The riverside meadows and lay-bys on the D706 are not places to spend the night; many car parks at the sites close in the evening with a barrier. The distances between the aires in Saint-Léon and Les Eyzies are short – use them.
- Insider tip for campers
- Font-de-Gaume shows originals and admits only a few groups a day; tickets are only available online via the ticket site of the Centre des monuments nationaux, several weeks in advance in summer; without a reservation a visit is practically impossible. In summer Les Eyzies gets crowded from late morning: leave the motorhome at the aire; the sights in the village are within walking distance.
4Stage 4: Les Eyzies to Sarlat-la-Canéda (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- Take the D47 across the Périgord noir plateau through oak and chestnut woods to Sarlat, well-built, half an hour’s drive. The last kilometres into town lead over roundabouts onto the Avenue du Général de Gaulle; the old town itself is off-limits to motorhomes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Saturday market in Sarlat’s old town with walnuts, truffles (in winter), goat’s cheese and duck products; a smaller market on Wednesday morning.
- Saint-Sacerdos cathedral and the Lanterne des Morts behind it, in the evening without day visitors.
- Covered market in the converted church of Sainte-Marie with a panoramic lift in the bell tower.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Large aire de camping-car on the Avenue du Général de Gaulle, about 600 m from the centre: around 20 pitches on tarmac, chargeable (CAMPING-CAR PARK network, access at the terminal), water and electricity for a fee, grey-water and cassette disposal, maximum stay 7 days. The position on the through road is noisy. Quieter: Huttopia Sarlat on the eastern edge of town (a good 1 km to the centre) or Camping Le Caminel north of town, both with electricity and service point, seasonal.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Sarlat directs motorhomes to the aire for the night; on the other car parks around the old town there are prohibition signs and in places height barriers. Camping behaviour is also prohibited on the aire – no awning, no chairs.
- Insider tip for campers
- On Saturdays, park the motorhome on the aire as early as Friday evening: from early morning access roads to the old town are closed, and the car parks on the edge fill with market visitors. The old town is largely pedestrianised anyway. A supermarket with a petrol station and water is on the road out towards Souillac.
5Stage 5: Sarlat to Domme via Beynac and La Roque-Gageac (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Sarlat take the D57 into the Dordogne valley to Beynac, then the D703 upriver via La Roque-Gageac and Vitrac, cross the Dordogne at Cénac and climb to the plateau of Domme. The D703 in La Roque-Gageac is squeezed between cliff and river, and in summer is full of pedestrians and traffic looking for parking; the climb to Domme is narrow and steep, and the medieval town gates cannot be passed by motorhomes. A full day with breaks.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Château de Beynac high above the river, from the bank and from the castle courtyard with a view of Castelnaud on the opposite bank.
- La Roque-Gageac: houses on the cliff face, gabarre trips (traditional flat-bottomed boats) from the quay.
- Domme: bastide on the rock with the Barre viewing terrace above the loop of the Dordogne.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Aire communale de Domme on the plateau outside the town walls, with service point, a few minutes’ walk to the Barre – the simplest solution for the night. Down in the valley, Camping Le Perpetuum on the river near Domme, Camping La Plage in La Roque-Gageac and Les Deux Vallées in Vézac offer electricity, sanitary facilities and canoe hire nearby; all seasonal.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): The municipal aire of La Roque-Gageac is at the entrance to the village on the D703 right by the water: chargeable, overnight stays permitted, electricity and water for a fee, little shade, road noise. The lay-bys along the D703 are for ticketed parking only. At Vézac below Beynac there are two pitches of the CAMPING-CAR-PARK network. Wild camping on the gravel banks of the Dordogne is not allowed and is dangerous when the river is high.
- Insider tip for campers
- Canoe trips on the Dordogne: hire firms in Cénac, Vitrac and Beynac take you upriver and let you paddle back – the Cénac–Beynac stretch passes La Roque-Gageac and Castelnaud. Start early; in August the river is crowded in the afternoon and the water is often low. Leave the motorhome in Beynac in the car park by the river; the lanes up to the castle are on foot only.
6Stage 6: Domme to Rocamadour (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- Back down into the valley and along the D703 upriver via Carsac to Souillac, there cross the Dordogne and take small roads via Pinsac and Lacave into the Ouysse valley, then up to the Causse and to L’Hospitalet above Rocamadour. The roads around Lacave are narrow, winding and in places single-track along the rocks; a good 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Sainte-Marie abbey church in Souillac with the Romanesque relief of the prophet Isaiah.
- Grottes de Lacave: stalactite cave with a little train into the interior.
- Rocamadour from the viewpoint in L’Hospitalet: the pilgrimage town on the cliff face above the Alzou canyon, loveliest in the early evening.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Les Cigales on the edge of L’Hospitalet, within walking distance of the viewpoint and the descent to the Cité, with electricity, sanitary facilities and a pool, seasonal. Camping Les Campagnes north of Rocamadour also has a motorhome area with service point. There is also a municipal aire with disposal in Alvignac, about 8 km to the east.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Rocamadour motorhomes may only park in the chargeable car parks P1 (L’Hospitalet), P2 (Le Château) and P4 (Le Garroustié), and camping is prohibited there; the car parks in the valley floor are reached by a narrow road and are unsuitable for large vehicles. Do not count on spending the night in these car parks – plan on a campsite or aire.
- Insider tip for campers
- Do not drive through the Cité: the road down from L’Hospitalet through the town gates is too narrow for motorhomes, and access to the Cité is restricted to motor traffic in summer during the day (11 am to 7 pm). Walk down the ramp, via the Grand Escalier staircase to the sanctuaries, and if needed take the lift and the inclined lift (chargeable, the inclined lift does not operate all year) back up. Early in the morning the town is almost empty.
7Stage 7: Rocamadour to Cahors via Padirac (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- Via Alvignac to the Gouffre de Padirac (around 20 km), then south via Gramat onto the Causse de Gramat and via Labastide-Murat across the limestone plateau of the Parc naturel régional des Causses du Quercy down into the Lot valley to Cahors. Wide, little-used roads across the upland; in Cahors itself dense traffic on the boulevards. About 1.5 hours without stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gouffre de Padirac: descent into the 75 m deep shaft to a good 100 m below the surface and a boat trip on the underground river – book online in advance in summer.
- Causse de Gramat: dry-stone walls, oak groves and the stone field huts (cazelles) beside the road.
- Pont Valentré in Cahors: fortified 14th-century bridge, photograph it in the evening from the riverside path.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Rivière de Cabessut on the bank of the Lot opposite the old town, about a 20-minute walk across the bridge to the centre, with electricity, sanitary facilities and service point, seasonal. East of the city there are aires in Lamagdelaine and Arcambal, both with disposal.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the Gouffre de Padirac there is a designated motorhome area, and in the village a municipal aire with disposal. In Cahors motorhomes park on the areas by the bank of the Lot; whether you may stay overnight there and at what price changes – check on site and in park4night or Campercontact.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Cahors there is a market on Wednesday and Saturday around Saint-Étienne cathedral; it is worth a morning. Leave the motorhome at the campsite and go on foot – the lanes of the old town and the multi-storey car parks are not made for motorhomes. There are few petrol stations on the Causses: fill up in Gramat or Cahors.
8Stage 8: Cahors to Figeac via Saint-Cirq-Lapopie (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- Take the D653 east to Vers, then the D662 through the narrow Lot valley via Bouziès to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie and on via Cénevières and Cajarc, finally across the upland to Figeac. The valley road is narrow, with overhanging rock and short single-track sections; the approach to the upper car parks at Saint-Cirq is steep. About 2 hours, a full day with a hike.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Chemin de halage at Bouziès: towpath hewn into the cliff face along the Lot, a good hour on foot towards Saint-Cirq.
- Saint-Cirq-Lapopie: village on a rocky ledge 100 m above the Lot, quietest early in the morning or in the evening.
- Saut de la Mounine near Cajarc: viewpoint over a wide loop of the Lot.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Figeac, the aire de camping-cars on the bank of the Célé with service point, within walking distance of the old town, or the Domaine du Surgié campsite east of town with electricity, sanitary facilities and a leisure pool, seasonal. If you want to stay overnight in Saint-Cirq: the chargeable aire de camping-car is at Porte Roques on the bank of the Lot below the village, right next to Camping de la Plage (maximum stay 48 hours, closed in winter).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the aire down on the Lot you pay on site; water and showers cost extra, and user reports in 2026 describe the sanitary facilities as poorly kept – arrive with a full water tank. In high season arrive early. The way up to the village is a steep walk uphill (about 1 km, roughly 100 m of ascent). Wild camping in the lay-bys of the valley road is not intended.
- Insider tip for campers
- Optionally continue to Conques (around 50 km north-east, Aveyron): the abbey church of Sainte-Foy with its Last Judgement tympanum stands in a car-free village; motorhomes park in the chargeable areas on the edge of the village. Figeac has a market on Saturdays; the Musée Champollion and the Place des Écritures are in the middle of the old town.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- France distinguishes between “stationnement” and “camping”: a motorhome counts as a vehicle and may park anywhere cars may park, including overnight – as long as it stands only on its wheels. Awning, chairs, tables, extended legs or levelling wedges, and waste water tipped out count as camping and are not permitted outside campsites.
- Mayors can ban motorhomes from parking or staying overnight on certain areas by municipal order (arrêté municipal); in the tourist towns of the Périgord and the Lot this is the rule. Prohibition signs with a motorhome symbol and height barriers at riverside car parks are binding, and checks and fines are common.
- Under the Code de l’urbanisme, wild camping is prohibited in Sites classés and inscrits, within 500 m of Monuments historiques and near drinking-water catchments, among other places – and thus in large parts of the Vézère and Dordogne valleys. In summer, prefectural fire regulations also apply in the woods: no open fire, no barbecue.
- You can legally stay overnight at campsites, at municipal aires de camping-car and at pitches of private networks such as CAMPING-CAR PARK (access with a membership card at the terminal). Networks such as France Passion arrange free overnight stays at wine estates and farms for an annual fee – in the Périgord and Quercy many walnut, duck and wine producers. Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact, CamperOnline.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Service stations (“borne”) are thick on the ground: almost every aire has one, often models by Euro-Relais, Flot Bleu or AireServices. You pay with tokens from the bakery or town hall, with coins or by card; grey water and cassette are often free, while water and electricity cost money.
- Empty grey water only through the station’s floor grid, and the cassette only into the designated outlet – never into drains or into nature. Many stations have been closed after misuse.
- The water at the bornes is usually drinking water (“eau potable”); heed signs saying “eau non potable”. In hot summers prefectures can impose water restrictions, and individual taps are then switched off.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in France; French cylinders (Butagaz, Antargaz, Primagaz) need their own connection or pressure regulator. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at LPG pumps with a suitable adapter – usually Dish, increasingly Euronozzle; take an adapter set with you. Arrive with two full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t as for cars – 130 km/h on motorways (110 in rain), 110 km/h on dual carriageways with a central divider (100 in rain), 80 km/h on country roads, 50 in built-up areas. On parts of its network the Dordogne has again allowed 90 km/h for cars – only where signposted. Motorhomes over 3.5 t: 110 km/h on motorways, 100 km/h on dual carriageways, 80 km/h on country roads, also on 90 sections. Combinations up to 3.5 t permissible gross weight drive as cars; combinations above that: 90 km/h on motorways and dual carriageways, 80 km/h on country roads. Check the current values before the trip.
- Since 2021, vehicles over 3.5 t must carry “Angles morts” (blind-spot warning) stickers of the official pattern on the sides and rear – this also applies to foreign motorhomes; missing stickers cost a €135 fine.
- Tolls: the motorways are mostly toll roads (péage), in this region for example the A89 near Périgueux and sections of the A20 south of Brive. The class depends on height and weight: class 2 for vehicles between 2 and 3 m in height up to 3.5 t, class 3 for two-axle vehicles over 3 m in height or over 3.5 t, class 4 for three-axle vehicles above that. Payment in cash, by card or with a télépéage badge; on certain stretches (for example in Normandy and the Allier) barrier-free free-flow tolling with online payment applies.
- Low-emission zones: the attempt to abolish the zones à faibles émissions (ZFE) by law was struck down by the Conseil constitutionnel in May 2026; the ZFE remain, but are enforced very differently from city to city. There are no ZFE on this route; for the journey there via big cities such as Paris or Lyon you need the Crit’Air sticker (order only via the official site certificat-air.gouv.fr). In a smog alert, prefectures can also impose driving restrictions by Crit’Air class elsewhere.
- Alcohol limit 0.5 per mille, 0.2 for novice drivers. Using a mobile phone at the wheel is prohibited, even with a headset or earphones; only permanently installed hands-free systems are allowed. High-visibility vests within reach and a warning triangle are compulsory. A rear carrier must not cover the number plate and lights, otherwise a light board with a second number plate is needed.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Set of “Angles morts” stickers in the French pattern for vehicles over 3.5 t – three pieces, on the sides and rear.
- Gas adapter set (Dish and Euronozzle) for LPG pumps, plus two full cylinders on entering the country.
- Waterproof dry bags and sandals for the canoe stretches on the Dordogne and the Vézère.
- A long fresh-water hose with various tap fittings and a few euros in coins – many bornes at municipal aires are set up for coins or tokens.
- Light hiking boots with a good tread for the steep paths to Saint-Cirq-Lapopie, Rocamadour and Domme and for the towpath at Bouziès.
- Printed or offline-saved bookings for Lascaux IV, Font-de-Gaume and the Gouffre de Padirac – in summer the time slots go quickly, and mobile reception in the valley is patchy.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
