In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 250 km along the western shore of Lake Como from Como to Colico, through the Valsassina to the Grigne near Lecco and back via Bellagio – a circuit between garden villas, Orrido and summit views, where ferry and hiking boots take over the narrowest spots.
The spirit of the route
Lake Como is a fjord of the Alps that has lost its way in Italy. From the western shore you see the steamers cross between Menaggio and Varenna in the morning, sails against the rock faces of the Grigne at midday, and in the evening light in the windows of the villas on the shore. The road, the Strada Regina, hangs on the slope and is old, narrow and full of buses. The motorhome drives it slowly, with pauses at the bays, and leaves the narrowest passages to the ferry and the scheduled boat. North of the lake the Alto Lario opens up with reeds, sand and surfers, in the Valsassina lie waterfalls, dairies and climbing walls, and at the southern end waits Lecco, the town of the mountains, of Manzoni and of the iron hammers. If you travel in May or September, you will find room and peace.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Como to Menaggio (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Como on the SS340 Regina along the western shore via Cernobbio, Moltrasio, Argegno and Tremezzo to Menaggio. The road is very narrow in places, winding, with walls and tunnels, buses coming the other way and, in summer, often standing traffic; with pauses 1.5 to 2 hours. Demanding for long or wide motorhomes; fold in the mirrors and wait for oncoming traffic early.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Como: cathedral, lakeside promenade, Villa Olmo and the funicular to Brunate with a view over the lake.
- Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo with terraced garden, azaleas and art collection.
- Menaggio with lakeside promenade, ferry landing and the hiking trail Via dei Monti Lariani.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and around Menaggio there are several campsites with electricity and sanitary facilities; season mostly spring to autumn, book early in summer. As an alternative away from the lake traffic, smaller sites in the surroundings of Como, for example near the Brianza lakes, are an option. Check existence, facilities and vehicle length beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Lake Como, free camping is practically ruled out: the lakeside road has hardly any car parks, and municipalities such as Como, Menaggio and Tremezzina check and issue bans on overnighting. Plan a firm pitch.
- Insider tip for campers
- Como's centre is a ZTL with cameras; motorhomes stay outside, for example at the campsite with bus and boat connections. The Strada Regina is sluggish at weekends and in August; drive early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Fill up and shop in Como, as supermarkets on the lakeshore are rare and small.
2Stage 2: Menaggio to Colico (Alto Lario) (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Menaggio on the SS340 Regina north via Rezzonico, Dongo, Gravedona and Domaso into the Alto Lario to Colico. Beyond Menaggio the road becomes wider and flatter, but has village streets with tight spots; about 1 hour. At Gera Lario the plain of the Pian di Spagna begins.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Gravedona with the Romanesque church of Santa Maria del Tiglio on the shore.
- Abbazia di Piona on the peninsula near Colico: a medieval monastery with a cloister.
- The reed and riparian area of Pian di Spagna at the northern end of the lake, a bird sanctuary.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Near Colico there are several sites on the water, including Camping Piona; electricity, sanitary facilities and waste disposal are mostly available. The season is mostly spring to autumn. Book in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Alto Lario, overnighting in car parks at the lake is forbidden in season and is checked; in the Pian di Spagna nature reserve, camping is prohibited. The sites are convenient enough to fall back on.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Alto Lario is known for the “Breva” and the “Tivano”, the daily winds: surfers and kiters meet here. On the campsites on the water it can be gusty in the afternoon; secure the awning. By ferry and scheduled boat, Bellagio and Varenna are also easy to reach from here.
3Stage 3: Colico to Primaluna (Valsassina) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Colico on the SS36 along the eastern shore south via Dervio to Bellano, then up into the Valsassina to Taceno and Primaluna. The SS36 is well built, but with many tunnels and lorry traffic; the road from Bellano into the Valsassina is winding and steep, and for large motorhomes it is better to go via Lecco and Ballabio. About 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Orrido di Bellano: a gorge in the town with walkways over the water, an entrance fee is charged.
- Cascata del Troggia near Introbio in the Valsassina.
- The village of Primaluna with old town and mountain view of the Grigne.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In the Primaluna area and the Valsassina, individual pitches are listed; check location, facilities, fees and season beforehand. In the Valsassina campsites are rare, and some agriturismi take motorhomes.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Valsassina, free camping in forests and on alpine pastures is forbidden; car parks in the villages are permitted for motorhomes with a camping ban where there are no prohibition signs. In summer there is a fire danger in the forests.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Valsassina is a hiking and climbing destination; cable cars and access to the Grigne start in Ballabio and Lecco. The dairy and farm shops sell cheese and sausage directly. In winter, snow chains or winter tyres are mandatory in the mountains; observe the signs.
4Stage 4: Primaluna to Piani Resinelli (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- From Primaluna down the Valsassina to Ballabio, then on the mountain road up to the Piani Resinelli below the Grigna Meridionale. The road is narrow, winding and has many hairpins; unsuitable for large motorhomes, check access restrictions beforehand. About 45 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Piani Resinelli: plateau at about 1,300 m with forests and hiking trails below the Grigna.
- The “Belvedere” viewpoint with a view of Lecco and Lake Como.
- The rock faces of the Grigna Meridionale, a classic climbing area.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: On the Piani Resinelli there are only a few, small options, more for compact vehicles; check existence, facilities, season and vehicle length beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On the Piani Resinelli, in the Grigna Settentrionale nature park, a camping ban applies outside designated sites; overnighting in car parks is not permitted.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Piani Resinelli lie higher than the lake and are cooler in summer. In snow or ice the access is closed or chains are mandatory. In summer weekends are full, and the road is then hardly passable for motorhomes with oncoming traffic; go during the week.
5Stage 5: Piani Resinelli to Lecco (approx. 20 km)
- The drive
- Down the mountain road to Ballabio and on to Lecco at the southern end of the eastern arm of the lake. About 40 minutes; the descent is winding and demanding for the brakes, and well built in the lower part. Lecco lies at the end of the lake, with harbour and old town.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lecco: the lakeside promenade, Piazza XX Settembre and the Basilica of San Nicolò.
- Ponte Azzone Visconti over the Adda, a landmark of the town.
- The cable car to Piani d’Erna with a view over the lake and of the Resegone (check operation beforehand).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Lecco a motorhome pitch is listed; check facilities, fees and opening beforehand. On the lake near Lecco there is also Camping Rivabella. In the surrounding area further campsites offer pitches on the water.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Lecco and on the lakeshore, overnighting outside designated sites is not usual; the municipality checks. Motorhomes may only park in the town where parking is permitted.
- Insider tip for campers
- Lecco is the town of Alessandro Manzoni, the author of “I promessi sposi”; the Casa Manzoni museum lies in the Caleotto district. The town has ZTL zones with cameras. By train or boat, Lecco is well connected to Milan and Varenna.
6Stage 6: Lecco to Bellagio (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- From Lecco on the SP583 Lariana along the western shore of the Lecco arm via Malgrate, Valmadrera and Oliveto Lario (with Vassena and Onno) to Bellagio. The road is very narrow in places, has tunnels and walls; oncoming buses are normal; roadworks and temporary closures occur, so check current traffic reports beforehand. About 1 to 1.5 hours, rather unsuitable for long and wide motorhomes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Bellagio on the promontory between the two arms of the lake: stepped lanes, silk shops and lakeside promenade.
- Villa Serbelloni and Villa Melzi with gardens (check opening and entrance fee beforehand).
- The drive along the shore with a view of the Grigne and the villages of Onno and Oliveto Lario.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and near Bellagio there are only a few campsites; book early and state the vehicle length. As an alternative, use Lecco or Menaggio as a base and go to Bellagio by ferry or bus.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Bellagio, overnighting in public car parks and on the shore is forbidden; car parks are scarce and expensive. Motorhomes have no room in the old town.
- Insider tip for campers
- Bellagio is heavily overcrowded at weekends and in summer; the access can be temporarily closed or stuck in traffic. The car ferry links Bellagio, Menaggio, Cadenabbia and Varenna; check timetable, fares and vehicle length beforehand with the operator Navigazione Laghi. Fold in the mirrors on the SP583.
7Stage 7: Bellagio to Como (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Bellagio via Civenna and Asso to Erba, then to Como; this avoids the extremely narrow eastern-shore road via Lezzeno–Nesso–Torno, which is unsuitable for large motorhomes. The route is winding, tight in the villages; about 1.5 hours. Alternatively take the ferry to Cadenabbia and return via the SS340.
- Highlights & must-sees
- The hill landscape of the Triangolo Lariano with forests and villages.
- Erba and the lakes Alserio and Pusiano on the edge of the Brianza.
- Como in the evening: lakeside promenade, cathedral and Piazza Cavour.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Back near Como, campsites in the surrounding area, for example near the Brianza lakes, are an option; check existence, facilities, season and vehicle length beforehand. They lie away from the lake traffic.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Como and the surrounding area, overnighting outside designated sites is not usual; the town checks, and car parks are scarce. If in doubt, ask the municipality.
- Insider tip for campers
- Como lies near the Swiss border; if you continue north, you need the motorway vignette in Switzerland and should observe the Swiss rules for motorhomes. Compare fuel prices before the border. In Como you can top up water, gas and supplies for the journey home.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada) distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): a motorhome may stand where parking is permitted, provided it only stands on its wheels. Chairs, tables, awning, support legs and draining grey water count as camping and are forbidden.
- On Lake Como many municipalities issue their own bans on overnighting in the vehicle; car parks on the shore are scarce, checked and often subject to a fee. Fines and towing are possible. In nature reserves such as Pian di Spagna and in the parks of the Grigne, camping is prohibited.
- In nature parks and forests open fires are forbidden; in summer there is an increased fire danger, and grills and gas stoves outdoors are also risky.
- Useful apps: park4night, Campercontact and CamperOnline (Italian). Sites at the lake fill up quickly in summer – book.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Filling and emptying is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. At the lake it is available at the campsites and at a few aree di sosta, for example in Lecco and Primaluna.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the service point; wild dumping is a main reason for bans.
- Tap water is mostly drinkable; fountains in the mountain villages often provide good spring water, look out for “acqua potabile”.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. You fill refillable cylinders and gas tanks at LPG filling stations with the Italian adapter. Arrive with two full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on the motorway; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas, 100 km/h on the motorway. Car-and-caravan combinations: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on the motorway. Dipped headlights are required outside built-up areas even in daytime.
- ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato) with camera monitoring exists in Como, Lecco, Menaggio, Bellagio and other lake towns; the fines arrive by post, often months later. Use pitches and car parks outside the zone.
- Low-emission zones: in Lombardy, in the cold season (usually 1 October to 30 April), traffic restrictions for older diesel vehicles apply in larger municipalities, probably including Como and Lecco; Euro classes and cut-off dates change (most recently discussion of Euro 5 diesel from October 2026), so check the current rules of the Lombardia region beforehand.
- Strada Regina and lake roads: width and length limit the drive on the narrow sections; observe height and width restrictions in tunnels and village streets. Car ferries link Bellagio, Menaggio, Cadenabbia and Varenna; check vehicle length and height when booking.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, for example bicycles on a rear rack, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is mandatory. Blood alcohol limit 0.5, 0.0 for novice and professional drivers; mobile phone at the wheel only with a hands-free kit.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Hiking boots with a grippy sole for the paths in the Grigne, on the Piani Resinelli and on the hiking trail Via dei Monti Lariani.
- Bicycle or folding bike for trips between campsite and town centre, where the motorhome cannot get through.
- Fold-away mirror covers or a width gauge in the cockpit for the narrow passages of the Strada Regina and the SP583.
- Rain jacket and fleece – at the lake there can suddenly be thunderstorms, and in the mountains it is cool even in summer.
- Binoculars for the waterbirds in the Pian di Spagna and the summits of the Grigne.
- Italian gas adapter for LPG filling stations, plus two full cylinders on arrival.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
