In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Sault Ste. Marie to Thunder Bay: a good 700 kilometres of Trans-Canada Highway along the north shore, where the lake looks now like a sea, now like a mirror beside your sliding door.
The spirit of the route
Beyond Sault Ste. Marie, Highway 17 turns into Algoma country and Lake Superior takes over. The road climbs over granite ridges, drops into bays with pebble beaches and disappears for hours into spruce, birch and pine. When you slide the door open in the morning you smell cold air, resin and wet rock; even in August the lake is so cold that your breath steams when it lies calm after a storm. Between Wawa and Marathon the towns get small, the gaps between petrol stations long, and moose stand at the roadside at first light. In Pukaskwa the waves roll onto gravel beaches like on the North Sea, at Sleeping Giant the sleeping peninsula lies in the evening light, and in Thunder Bay the drive ends at a harbour with grain silos. The route rewards patience: fog, wind and wildfire smoke come with the territory, and a full tank is a kind of courtesy out here.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Sault Ste. Marie to Lake Superior Provincial Park (Agawa Bay) (approx. 170 km)
- The drive
- From Sault Ste. Marie take Highway 17 north, past Pancake Bay and Batchawana Bay, where the lake keeps appearing beside the road. In between there are gentle hills; from Montreal River Harbour the road becomes a partly steep roller coaster over granite ridges, with warning signs for trucks and trailers on some slopes. The speed limit is mostly 90 km/h, 50–70 km/h in towns and roadworks. Pure driving time is about 2.5 hours; mobile reception drops out in places in the provincial park.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pancake Bay Provincial Park: a sandy beach in a wide, curving bay with comparatively warm shallow water, and a short trail to a viewpoint. The beach makes a good lunch stop.
- Agawa Rock Pictographs in Lake Superior Provincial Park: red Ojibwe rock paintings about 400 years old on a sheer wall right above the water, reached by a short path with a rock platform. In heavy swell the platform is dangerous and is closed, so go only when the lake is calm and heed the signs.
- Old Woman Bay: a broad bay with a sandy beach, overlooked by a rock profile that looks like a face; right on the highway, and early morning gives the best light.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Lake Superior Provincial Park, Agawa Bay Campground: right on the lake, sites with and without electricity, showers and toilets, dump station in the park; the beachfront sites are in demand. Alternative in the park: Rabbit Blueberry Campground on Rabbit Lake. Pancake Bay Provincial Park has sites with electricity close to the beach. Reserve through Ontario Parks, well ahead in high season; check the length and power details of individual sites when booking.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Lake Superior Provincial Park, overnighting outside the campgrounds is not allowed. Camping on Crown land outside the parks is generally possible, but for non-residents of Ontario only with a paid Crown land camping permit and for a limited time in one place. Check the current rules at Ontario.ca and check access roads for a large motorhome beforehand.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up the tank and buy food in Sault Ste. Marie before the park: between Batchawana and Wawa, petrol stations and shops are few and far between. Highway 17 is the only continuous road here; if it closes, the detours are very long, so check 511 Ontario the evening before.
2Stage 2: Lake Superior Provincial Park to Pukaskwa National Park (Hattie Cove) (approx. 230 km)
- The drive
- Continue north via Wawa, then a long stretch through woodland with lakes, rock cuttings and few settlements as far as White River; there Highway 627 branches off towards the coast, and later you rejoin Highway 17 towards Marathon. The road is mostly well built, with occasional frost damage and roadworks in summer. Pure driving time is about 3 to 3.5 hours. Moose often stand on the road at dusk, so do not drive after 6 pm.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Wawa: the town is known for the steel goose at its entrance and for Wawa Falls and the nearby Michipicoten River; important as a supply stop for the tank and the fridge.
- White River: home of the Winnie-the-Pooh legend (the bear Winnipeg came from White River), with a small museum and a statue; a short stop before heading to the coast.
- Pukaskwa National Park: granite coast, gravel beaches and trails such as the Beach Trail and the Bluff Trail at Hattie Cove; the drive ends in a bay with a car park and visitor centre.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Pukaskwa National Park, Hattie Cove Campground: the only drive-in campground in the park, simple sites, some with electricity, washroom building; access via Highway 627 from the Trans-Canada Highway. Book through Parks Canada, early in high season. Alternative: White Lake Provincial Park near White River with lakeside sites and showers. Check vehicle lengths when booking.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the national park only designated sites are allowed; backcountry camping only with a permit and on foot. On Crown land along Highway 17 the rules are as above; many forest tracks are too narrow for trailers.
- Insider tip for campers
- After Pukaskwa the next place with supplies is Marathon. Wawa, White River and Marathon are the reliable stops for diesel and petrol; never start a stretch between towns with less than a quarter of a tank. Mosquito and black fly season lasts into July, so plan for mosquito nets and a head net.
3Stage 3: Pukaskwa National Park to Terrace Bay and Rainbow Falls (approx. 130 km)
- The drive
- Back onto Highway 17 and on via Marathon to Terrace Bay. The road follows the lake in wide curves, with magnificent views of ships and islands; between Marathon and Terrace Bay it follows the slope along the coast. Pure driving time is about 2 hours, half a day with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Marathon: harbour town with a beach and boardwalk, plus nearby Neys Provincial Park with a pebble beach and the Marais Trail.
- Terrace Bay: small town with a harbour, plus the nearby Aguasabon Falls with a viewpoint and a short access path.
- Rainbow Falls Provincial Park near Rossport: waterfalls with a stepped path and a bridge, plus a view over the lake.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Rainbow Falls Provincial Park: campground in two areas (Whitesand Lake, Rainbow Falls), some sites with electricity, showers, dump station; reserve through Ontario Parks. Alternative: Neys Provincial Park near Marathon, a simple site on the coast. Check length limits when booking.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Crown land on both sides of the road, camping is possible for non-residents only with a permit; easy access for a large vehicle is rare. Highway rest areas are for short stops, not for overnighting.
- Insider tip for campers
- Rossport is a tiny village with lovely views over Nipigon Bay and the chance to rent kayaks. The road between Terrace Bay and Nipigon has sharp weather changes; fog and wind can come in quickly, so check the weather before any water activity.
4Stage 4: Terrace Bay to Nipigon and Sleeping Giant Provincial Park (approx. 190 km)
- The drive
- Continue on Highway 17 via Schreiber and Rossport to Nipigon, where the road crosses the Nipigon River Bridge, which was temporarily out of service in 2016 after damage to the roadway and showed how vulnerable the connection is. Then on via Red Rock and Dorion towards Thunder Bay, and out onto the Sleeping Giant peninsula (Highway 587). Pure driving time is about 3 hours, a whole day with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Nipigon: Lake Nipigon and the Nipigon River, a well-known fishing area, plus an information centre with a viewpoint.
- Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park: a rock gorge 100 m wide and 150 m deep with viewing platforms, a short walk from the car park, with cold pockets even in summer holding arctic plants.
- Sleeping Giant Provincial Park: a peninsula with the famous rock profile, trails such as the Kabeyun Trail and the Thunder Bay Lookout; the drive ends in Silver Islet, where old fishermen’s houses stand by the water.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, Marie Louise Lake Campground: sites with and without electricity, showers, dump station; reserve through Ontario Parks, well ahead in high season. Alternatively, Ouimet Canyon as a day destination without camping. Check vehicle lengths when booking.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the park, camping is allowed only on designated sites. The usual Crown land rules apply; the proximity of Thunder Bay increases the number of users, so free camping is rather difficult.
- Insider tip for campers
- Silver Islet is only conditionally suitable for large motorhomes because of the narrow road; parking is scarce. If you want to spend the day on the coast, leave the motorhome at the campground and carry on by bike or hire car.
5Stage 5: Sleeping Giant to Thunder Bay (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- A short drive back onto Highway 11/17 to Thunder Bay, with city traffic and harbour installations. The road is well built; travel time is about 1 hour, plus time for visiting the city and shopping.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Terry Fox Memorial: a monument to the runner Terry Fox, who ended his Marathon of Hope run near Thunder Bay in 1980; a viewpoint on Highway 11/17.
- Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park: a waterfall on the Kaministiquia River, about 30 km west of the city, with walkways and viewing platforms.
- Thunder Bay Marina and harbour: grain silos, Prince Arthur’s Landing and the waterfront; good for a stroll and dinner.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park: campground with sites with and without electricity, showers, dump station; reserve through Ontario Parks. Alternatively, private RV parks in the city area; check their status and facilities beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Thunder Bay itself, overnighting in a vehicle outside campgrounds is prohibited; towns and municipalities enforce this. The provincial parks are the safe alternative.
- Insider tip for campers
- For shopping, laundry, gas and waste disposal, Thunder Bay is the biggest city on the route; stock up here, fill the water, empty the tanks. Plan the return of rental vehicles early, because flight and rail connections are limited.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In Ontario, camping on Crown land, meaning public land outside parks and settlements, is generally possible. It is free for Canadians and Ontario residents; non-residents need a paid Crown land camping permit and may stay in one place only for a limited time. Check the current rules at Ontario.ca.
- In the provincial parks and the national park, overnighting is allowed only on designated sites or with a permit. Rest areas, car parks and highway shoulders are for short stops; overnighting is frowned upon by police and park wardens.
- Municipal sites and towns often have their own by-laws; supermarket car parks rarely allow overnighting, so ask first.
- Useful apps and sites: iOverlander, Campendium, Park4Night, the Ontario Parks reservation site, the Parks Canada Reservation Service, 511 Ontario for road conditions.
- Wildlife: black bears and moose are common; keep food and anything with a smell locked in the vehicle at night, never feed them, keep your distance. On trails carry bear bells and bear spray and know how to use them.
- Fire: in summer there are regular fire bans; check with the park authority or Ontario Forest Fire Information on the spot. Do not transport firewood over long distances, to avoid spreading pests.
- Mosquitoes and black flies are strong from May to July; plan for insect repellent, a mosquito net and long clothing.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations are found in the larger provincial parks (such as Lake Superior, Rainbow Falls, Sleeping Giant, Kakabeka Falls) and at some petrol stations or municipal sites; check before you travel whether they are open to non-guests and whether fees apply.
- Drinking water: usually at taps in the parks, otherwise in Wawa, Marathon, Terrace Bay, Nipigon and Thunder Bay; filter or boil water from the lake.
- Fuel: petrol stations in Sault Ste. Marie, Wawa, White River, Marathon, Terrace Bay, Nipigon and Thunder Bay; between the towns there are long stretches with nowhere to refuel. Do not wait until the tank is half empty to fill up.
- Gas: propane at petrol stations and hardware stores in Wawa, Marathon and Thunder Bay; European cylinders need adapters and are rarely refilled.
- Shopping: larger supermarkets in Sault Ste. Marie, Wawa, Marathon and Thunder Bay; in between, small shops with a limited range.
- Electricity: campgrounds offer 15, 30 and 50 A (120 V); rental motorhomes usually have the matching US/Canadian plug; without a hook-up, plan on battery and solar.
- Mobile reception often drops out between Wawa and Marathon and in provincial parks; download offline maps.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: on Highway 17 mostly 90 km/h, in towns 50 km/h, reduced in roadworks. Vehicles with trailers generally must not go faster than the signs allow; take the steep descents at Montreal River Harbour and Wawa in a low gear.
- Tolls: none on this route. No low-emission zones.
- Admission: provincial parks charge day-use and campground fees, Pukaskwa charges Parks Canada admission or the Discovery Pass; check current amounts with Ontario Parks and Parks Canada.
- Dimensions: many sites have length limits; watch the height at bridges and car parks, and avoid multi-storey car parks in Thunder Bay.
- Reservations: Ontario Parks up to five months ahead; Parks Canada likewise early, especially in July and August.
- Weather and season: summer runs from June to September; July and August are warmest but cool at night. Late summer is quieter. Wildfire smoke is possible; road closures due to fires are rare but occasionally happen.
- Traffic law: drive on the right, seat belts compulsory, phones at the wheel only hands-free, alcohol in the vehicle only if sealed. A German driving licence is sufficient for tourists for a limited time; an international driving permit is recommended.
- Emergency: 911; on Highway 17 police presence is low; if you break down, use hazard lights and a warning triangle, and call the breakdown service via the rental company.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Head net and mosquito repellent with DEET or icaridin – black flies and mosquitoes are active into high summer.
- Bear spray and bear bells for trails in Pukaskwa and Lake Superior Provincial Park, plus a lockable container for food.
- Warm layers and a windproof jacket: the lake stays cold, and in June and September nights quickly drop to single-digit temperatures.
- A spare can of diesel or petrol only where permitted and safe, plus a tyre pressure gauge for the frost-damaged stretches.
- Offline maps and a paper map, because mobile reception between Wawa and Marathon often fails.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
