In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From Ithaca to Letchworth: waterfalls that drop higher than Niagara Falls, long glacial lakes and vineyard slopes, plus state park campgrounds right above the water.
The spirit of the route
The Finger Lakes are long, narrow lakes that the Ice Age raked into the north of New York State as if with a comb. Between them lie gentle hills of vines and cornfields, and on every lakeshore a stream cuts into slate and forms a gorge with waterfalls. In the morning mist hangs over Cayuga Lake, and through the sliding door you smell wet stone, wood smoke and ripe grapes. You drive short stages on small country roads, stop at farm stands, hike the gorge at Watkins Glen over wet steps, and spend the evening in a state park where hardly anyone speaks louder than the water. At the end the Genesee canyon opens up at Letchworth, known as the “Grand Canyon of the East”: forest, rock walls and three big falls. The route is quiet and far from any high-mountain stress, but in autumn, at leaf-colour time, it requires campsites booked early.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Ithaca to Seneca Falls (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- From Ithaca north on NY-89 along the west shore of Cayuga Lake, a two-lane country road with speeds mostly 45–55 mph, slower through villages, wide lake views and a few climbs out of the valley. Then via NY-89 and US-20 or NY-5 to Seneca Falls. Pure driving time is about 1.5 hours; with hikes, a full day. Ithaca itself is tight and hilly, and the town centre is not ideal for larger vehicles.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Taughannock Falls State Park near Trumansburg: the waterfall drops about 215 ft (65 m), which makes it taller than Niagara Falls; the short Gorge Trail to the foot of the falls is flat, and the Rim Trail leads to viewpoints above. Allow one to two hours; entry is a day fee per vehicle, so check the current amount at parks.ny.gov.
- Buttermilk Falls and Robert H. Treman State Park near Ithaca: gorge trails with several falls and swimming spots in summer; paths and steps are slippery when wet, and sections are often closed after heavy rain or in winter. Check the status on the park website beforehand.
- Women’s Rights National Historical Park in Seneca Falls: visitor centre and historic sites on the 1848 women’s rights convention; check opening times at nps.gov. The town centre is small, and larger vehicles are better parked on the edge.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Taughannock Falls State Park Campground: above the gorge, sites with and without hook-ups, showers and toilets, dump station according to the park website; vehicle lengths are specified when booking, so please note them. Alternatively Cayuga Lake State Park near Seneca Falls on the lakeshore with sites, sanitary facilities and a boat ramp. Booking for New York State Parks runs through the reservation system at parks.ny.gov and opens several months ahead; book early for autumn weekends. Robert H. Treman State Park also has a campground; check facilities and length limit before booking.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping on lakeshores, at waterfall car parks or by the roadside is not allowed in most municipalities in New York State; State Parks are patrolled at night. The nearest legal free alternative is dispersed camping in the Finger Lakes National Forest (see stage 2), rather unsuitable for large motorhomes because the forest tracks are narrow and in places soft.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fuel and fresh water in Ithaca before moving on; there are only a few petrol stations along the west shore of Cayuga Lake. The roads in the gorge towns have low bridges and tight bends; watch the height signs at underpasses and note your vehicle height. Taughannock shows the most water after rain; in the dry late summer the falls can be much thinner.
2Stage 2: Seneca Falls to Watkins Glen (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- From Seneca Falls via Geneva at the north end of Seneca Lake, then on NY-14 along the west shore or NY-414 along the east shore to Watkins Glen at the south end. Two-lane, speeds 45–55 mph, vineyards and lake views, a few climbs and short queues on autumn weekends. Pure driving time is a good 1.5 hours. On NY-414 on the east shore, Hector Falls lies right by the road, and the lay-bys are small.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Watkins Glen State Park: the Gorge Trail runs about 1.5 miles through a slate gorge with dozens of waterfalls, tunnels and steps; the trail is open seasonally only (usually May to October) and slippery after rain. Allow two hours and use the shuttle to the upper entrance where it runs.
- Geneva and the Seneca Lake wine trail: the wineries on NY-14 and NY-414 mostly open from late morning; with a motorhome and a driver who is not tasting, visiting is better than tasting. Small winery car parks are often not designed for large vehicles.
- Finger Lakes National Forest near Hector: about 16,000 acres of mixed forest and pasture between Seneca and Cayuga Lake, with gravel roads, hiking trails and the Finger Lakes Trail; a quiet stop for walks away from the lakes.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Watkins Glen State Park Campground: above the gorge, sites with and without hook-ups, showers, dump station according to the park website; check length limits and season times at parks.ny.gov before booking. Sampson State Park on the east shore of Seneca Lake near Romulus: a former naval base with lakeshore, sites with and without hook-ups, sanitary facilities and a boat ramp. Booking through the State Parks portal; autumn weekends sell out early.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Dispersed camping in the Finger Lakes National Forest is possible free of charge and without a permit according to the Forest Service, without hook-ups and with a time limit (usually 14 days); note that vehicles may only drive on approved forest roads. Read the notices of the Ranger District (Hector) on site and check the road condition after rain; borderline for large motorhomes.
- Insider tip for campers
- Race-season weekends around Watkins Glen (Watkins Glen International circuit) push prices and campsite occupancy up; check the event dates before booking. Gorge entry fees and shuttle times change seasonally; early in the morning the trail is quieter and the light in the gorge is better.
3Stage 3: Watkins Glen to Hammondsport (approx. 70 km)
- The drive
- From Watkins Glen via NY-414 to Corning in the Chemung Valley, then via NY-54 north along the west shore of Keuka Lake to Hammondsport. Two to four lanes, speeds 45–55 mph, partly winding, dense traffic in the town of Corning. Pure driving time is about 1.25 hours. The section on NY-54 is narrow in places; leave room when there is oncoming traffic.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Corning Museum of Glass: one of the world’s great glass museums with live demonstrations; check opening times and admission beforehand and allow at least two hours.
- Hammondsport at the south end of Keuka Lake: village square with wineries and the Glenn H. Curtiss Museum, which commemorates the history of aviation pioneers; parking in the village is scarce, so leave motorhomes on the outskirts.
- Keuka Lake: Y-shaped lake with vineyard slopes on its shores; the shore roads are narrow but scenic. If you have time, drive a stretch north along the east shore on NY-54A.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Keuka Lake State Park near Branchport on the west shore: sites with electricity, sanitary facilities, dump station according to the park website, lake access; check length limits before booking. Alternatively sites in county parks such as those of the communities around Corning (status and reservations through the counties). Reservations for the State Parks run through parks.ny.gov.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping in winery or lakeside car parks is not allowed; some wineries permit overnight stays only by arrangement or through membership programmes, so enquire directly beforehand. In the DEC State Forests in the area camping is allowed under conditions, but vehicles usually only on approved tracks; check the rules of the authority (DEC) on site.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Corning, top up water and supplies before the museum; beyond Hammondsport there are fewer large shops. Note your vehicle height – old railway bridges in the Chemung Valley have low clearances. For wine tastings, swap drivers or stay overnight at the campsite; the drink-drive limit is strict in New York.
4Stage 4: Hammondsport to Naples (approx. 50 km)
- The drive
- From Hammondsport on small country roads (including NY-54 to Bath or via Pulteney and Italy Valley) to Naples at the south end of Canandaigua Lake. Two-lane, speeds 45–55 mph, partly steep and winding with hairpins on the valley edge, slippery in rain. Pure driving time is just under 1 hour. Expect oncoming traffic on the connecting roads between the lakes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Grimes Glen County Park near Naples: short trail to a waterfall in a slate canyon; the car park is small and paths can be very wet after rain. A little under an hour is enough.
- Naples and the Canandaigua Lake valley: the village is known for its Grape Pie Festival in September; check dates and the parking situation beforehand.
- Lake views over Canandaigua Lake from roadside viewpoints (for example towards the Bristol Hills); a quiet resting place with a wide outlook.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Naples is better planned with private campsites or State Park sites in the surrounding area; check a specific site according to vehicle length beforehand at parks.ny.gov or with the municipalities. In the area, some DEC campgrounds and county parks offer basic sites; length limits and season times change, so confirm the status before arrival. If possible, book several months ahead.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Dispersed camping in New York State is possible under conditions in State Forests on DEC land (for example no more than three nights per site for small groups, distance from roads, trails and water); vehicles may only drive on approved tracks, so a large camper is usually unsuitable. Check the current rules with the DEC.
- Insider tip for campers
- In the high season in late summer and autumn Naples is overrun; arrive early, as parking spaces for larger vehicles are scarce. The roads between the lakes are partly steep: check your brakes and drive downhill in a low gear.
5Stage 5: Naples to Letchworth State Park (Castile) (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- From Naples via NY-21 and NY-36 heading west, partly on small country roads to the Genesee Valley and on to Castile at the south end of the park. Two-lane, speeds 45–55 mph, mostly quiet, with narrow roads and winding sections in the park itself. Pure driving time is about 1.5 hours. NY-436 also runs along the eastern edge of the park.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Letchworth State Park: the Genesee gorge is up to about 600 ft (180 m) deep and is called the “Grand Canyon of the East”; three big falls, Upper, Middle and Lower Falls, with viewpoints. Middle Falls is the largest at about 107 ft (33 m).
- Inspiration Point and Humphrey’s Pond: a viewpoint over the river and a small lake, both with short trails; the park road is narrow, so do not block the lay-bys with motorhomes.
- Portage Viaduct: historic railway bridge over the Genesee at the edge of the park, known as a photo spot from the river viewpoint; check access and parking on site.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Letchworth State Park Campgrounds: large campgrounds in the park (including in the Castile and Mount Morris areas), sites with and without hook-ups, sanitary facilities, dump station according to the park website; check vehicle length, electricity and showers at parks.ny.gov before booking. In autumn at leaf-colour time weekends are often booked out early. Alternatively private campsites in Castile and Perry.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping in the State Park or in the viewpoint car parks; checks take place at night. Dispersed camping remains restricted to DEC State Forests and the Finger Lakes National Forest, for motorhomes only with caution.
- Insider tip for campers
- The park has several entrances; for the main points (Inspiration Point, Middle Falls) go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, as it is busy during the day at weekends. Empire Pass and day fees: check the current amounts at parks.ny.gov. The park roads are winding and in places narrow; note your vehicle length and height.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In New York State, sleeping in a vehicle outside designated sites is largely prohibited: in State Parks, in car parks at waterfalls and viewpoints and on lakeshores, patrols check at night, and municipalities and sheriffs punish violations with fines.
- Legal is dispersed camping on National Forest land (here the Finger Lakes National Forest, with a time limit and without hook-ups) and, under conditions, in DEC State Forests; rules on distance from roads, trails and water, fires and the maximum number of nights apply, so please check on site.
- Rest areas on the motorways (Thruway and interstates) usually allow only time-limited parking; camping is not allowed there. Supermarket car parks vary, so ask in the store.
- Firewood: in New York, firewood may only be transported from the local area (under the DEC rule no further than 50 miles from where it is burned) or heat-treated and labelled; violations carry penalties. Buy wood at the campground.
- Wildlife: black bears are rare in the south of New York, raccoons and skunks occur at campgrounds, and ticks (Lyme disease) are widespread, so plan on tick protection and checking yourself after hikes.
- Useful apps and sites: parks.ny.gov (reservations and closures), Recreation.gov (federal land), iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, plus the DEC pages for State Forest rules.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations are available in many State Parks (for example Taughannock Falls, Watkins Glen, Letchworth) according to the park website, sometimes for campers only; more at petrol stations and private campsites for a fee. sanidumps.com gives an overview; check the status beforehand.
- Tap water in New York is drinkable; campgrounds have fresh-water points. Filter or boil stream and gorge water before use.
- Never discharge grey water into streams or onto the ground; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane is available at petrol stations and from dealers in Ithaca, Corning and Geneva. European gas cylinders need adapters and usually are not refilled; rental motorhomes have permanently fitted US tanks.
- Fuel and shopping: supermarkets in Ithaca, Geneva, Corning and Batavia; around the lakes there are only small shops in the countryside, and in the wine region farm stands with local fruit and vegetables.
- Electricity: campgrounds with hook-ups offer 30 and 50 A (120 V); rental motorhomes usually have the matching US cable. Without a hook-up, plan on the leisure battery; use generators only at the times set by the park rules.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: interstates 65, two-lane state highways mostly 45–55, towns 25–35, park roads in State Parks often 25–35. Using a mobile phone while driving is allowed in New York only hands-free; open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited.
- Tolls: the New York State Thruway (I-90) is a toll road, E-ZPass or payment by licence plate; rental companies often charge a service fee. On the route itself hardly any toll sections are necessary.
- Admission and fees: State Parks mostly charge a day fee per vehicle, and the Empire Pass covers many entries; check campground prices and reservation fees at parks.ny.gov. The America the Beautiful Pass is not valid in State Parks, but is valid in the Finger Lakes National Forest for federal-land facilities that charge a fee.
- Dimensions: legal maximum height in most states is 13 ft 6 in (4.11 m); lower clearances are possible on parkways and older bridges, so heed the signs. Check the length limits of State Park sites when booking.
- Reservations: State Park sites through the reservation system at parks.ny.gov, window of several months; book autumn weekends (leaf colour, end of September to mid-October) early.
- Weather and season: May to October is the main season; gorge trails are mostly closed in winter. Thunderstorms in summer, leaves from the end of September, snow and ice on the hill roads in winter.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception in gorges and on the hill roads is patchy. It is easy to slip on wet slate and stairs, so wear sturdy shoes; never climb over barriers at waterfalls.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Hiking boots with a grippy sole for the wet slate steps in Watkins Glen and Letchworth; the trails are slippery even in summer.
- Rain jacket and spare socks: the gorges have spray and in autumn often rain, and streams cross the trails.
- Tick protection (repellent, tick card or tweezers): ticks are widespread in the woods and meadows, so check yourself after every hike.
- Offline maps and printed reservations: reception drops out in gorges and in the hill country.
- Water canister and small change for showers: not every campground has a water hook-up at the site, and some showers work with coins.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
