In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the St. Lawrence River via Baie-Saint-Paul and the ferry crossing to Tadoussac to the shore of Lac-Saint-Jean: 800 kilometres of coast, fjord and blueberry country, where whales blow in the morning and artists' villages glow in the evening.
The spirit of the route
Charlevoix is a landscape where the St. Lawrence is already almost a sea. Route 138 and the coastal road 362 follow slopes, rocky headlands and small villages with white churches, with artists' towns such as Baie-Saint-Paul and quiet gorges such as the Hautes-Gorges of the Malbaie in between. Beyond the short, free ferry crossing at Baie-Sainte-Catherine, Tadoussac begins with its whale-watching points, where belugas and minke whales surface in the funnel-shaped mouth of the Saguenay. The fjord, over 100 kilometres long and up to 270 metres deep, pushes between granite rock walls; at the Baie-Éternité, Notre-Dame-du-Saguenay sits enthroned above the water. Further west the plain of Lac-Saint-Jean opens out, with sandy beaches, blueberry fields and the former industrial settlement of Val-Jalbert. From your sliding door you see river, fjord and lakeshore in turn; the route rewards early rising, patience in the ferry queues and reservations in the provincial and Sépaq parks.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Québec to Baie-Saint-Paul (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- From Québec take Route 138 through the Côte-de-Beaupré, past Chutes Montmorency, Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré and Cap-Tourmente, then steeply through hills and bends into the Gouffre valley with Baie-Saint-Paul. Mostly two lanes, speeds of 50 to 90 km/h, a few climbs and descents, sluggish in weekend traffic. Driving time is just under two hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Chutes Montmorency: At 83 metres the waterfall is higher than Niagara Falls and is reached from a park with stairs and a cable car; check the park fee and opening hours beforehand.
- Réserve nationale de faune du Cap-Tourmente: In spring and autumn snow geese rest there in their tens of thousands; check admission and times with the management.
- Baie-Saint-Paul: artists' town with galleries, cafés and the Musée d’art contemporain; the old town is small, so park motorhomes on the edge of town.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Parc national des Grands-Jardins (Sépaq), campground in the Charlevoix hinterland, reached via Route 381; depending on the sector, Sépaq sites range from basic to reasonably well equipped, so check vehicle length and the condition of the access road before booking. Alternatively, private campgrounds near Baie-Saint-Paul and Petite-Rivière-Saint-François. Reserve through Sépaq, early in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Camping on public land (Terres du domaine de l’État) is permitted in Québec for residents under conditions; special rules and permits apply to visitors from abroad, which must be clarified beforehand with the responsible ministry or the municipality. Along Route 138 there is no legal free camping at viewpoints.
- Insider tip for campers
- Route 138 has steep sections between Baie-Saint-Paul and La Malbaie; use your gears and spare the brakes. Fill up and shop in Québec or Baie-Saint-Paul, after which the towns get smaller. In Baie-Saint-Paul parking is scarce at weekends.
2Stage 2: Baie-Saint-Paul to La Malbaie (Pointe-au-Pic) (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- On the coastal road 362 via Les Éboulements and Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive, with a detour to the free ferry to Île-aux-Coudres, then on to Cap-à-l’Aigle and La Malbaie. Winding, with views over the river, speeds of 50 to 70 km/h; the 362 is considerably slower than the 138 but far more scenic. Driving time is just under two hours, a full day with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Île-aux-Coudres: ferry from Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive (free according to the operator), cycling around the island; check the timetable and queues in summer.
- Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie: a gorge with rock walls around 800 metres high, hiking trails and a boat tour; access is via a long park road, so check opening hours and access beforehand.
- Manoir Richelieu and Pointe-au-Pic: the historic hotel on the slope above the river; the town is not a motorhome place, but the view over the river is worth a short stop.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Campgrounds in the Hautes-Gorges (Sépaq) offer tent and vehicle sites with basic facilities; the access road is narrow and long, so clarify motorhome length and access before booking. Alternatively, private campgrounds near La Malbaie. Reserve through Sépaq.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping on the coastal road; the 362 has only a few lay-bys, and parking there at night is not permitted.
- Insider tip for campers
- For the Hautes-Gorges bring provisions and water, as the gorge has only a small park shop. The coastal road 362 has climbs and tight bends; drive slowly and use the passing places. Charlevoix has been a UNESCO biosphere reserve since 1989, so take your rubbish with you.
3Stage 3: La Malbaie to Tadoussac (approx. 100 km)
- The drive
- On Route 138 through mountain scenery to Saint-Siméon and on to Baie-Sainte-Catherine, where you take the ferry across the Saguenay to Tadoussac. Hilly, with long climbs, speeds of 50 to 90 km/h; according to the operator the ferry runs around the clock at short intervals and is free, and in summer waits of an hour are possible. Driving time is about two and a half hours plus the ferry.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Baie-Sainte-Catherine–Tadoussac ferry: a crossing of about ten minutes with a view of the fjord mouth; waits are possible in high season.
- Tadoussac: mouth of the Saguenay into the St. Lawrence, Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park; whale watching by boat and from land, plus the marine mammal centre. The small wooden chapel of 1747 is regarded as one of the oldest wooden churches in North America.
- Dunes of Tadoussac and Pointe-de-l’Islet: short trails on the shore, good places to see belugas and minke whales from land.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping Tadoussac, a larger site on the edge of town with hookups and showers; check opening times, vehicle length and reservations with the operator. Alternatively, private sites along Route 138 near Les Bergeronnes. Book early in high summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping in town or at the dunes; overnighting in the vehicle in car parks at the harbour is prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- You can avoid the ferry wait by crossing before 8 am or late in the evening. Book whale boat tours the evening before; they are cancelled in heavy swell. Tadoussac is small and parking is scarce; leave the motorhome at the campground and go on foot.
4Stage 4: Tadoussac to Saguenay (Chicoutimi) (approx. 230 km)
- The drive
- From Tadoussac on Route 172 along the fjord via Sacré-Cœur to Saint-David and Rivière-Éternité, then on to Chicoutimi. Winding and hilly, speeds of 50 to 90 km/h; the 172 follows the fjord only in places, and at the Baie-Éternité a side road leads to the water. Driving time is about three to three and a half hours, a full day with a hike.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay, Baie-Éternité sector: fjord walls and hiking trails; one trail leads to the statue of Notre-Dame-du-Saguenay above the water, with a view of the fjord. Check opening hours and admission with Sépaq.
- Sacré-Cœur and fjord views: roadsides and hiking trails offer views over the fjord; watch for car parks, as motorhomes have only limited space.
- Chicoutimi: Vieux-Port and La Pulperie de Chicoutimi, a former paper mill with a museum; check opening hours in advance.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Parc national du Fjord-du-Saguenay (Sépaq), Baie-Éternité sector: Camping de Baie-Éternité on the fjord shore, around 100 sites without hookups plus two areas with water and electricity, season roughly mid-May to mid-October; check facilities and vehicle length with Sépaq. Alternatively, private campgrounds near Chicoutimi and Saint-Fulgence. Reserve through Sépaq.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping at the fjord; the roadsides are not meant for overnight stays, and parking bans apply at viewpoints.
- Insider tip for campers
- There are only a few petrol stations in the fjord area, so fill up completely in Tadoussac or Chicoutimi. Do fjord hikes only in good weather and with enough water; in summer there are many mosquitoes, so bring insect repellent.
5Stage 5: Saguenay (Chicoutimi) to Parc national de la Pointe-Taillon (approx. 130 km)
- The drive
- From Chicoutimi on Routes 170 and 169 via Alma to Lac-Saint-Jean, then on to Saint-Henri-de-Taillon. Flat, with farmland and lake views, 90 km/h on country roads, 50 in towns; few bends. Driving time is about two hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lac-Saint-Jean: inland lake with sandy beaches, known for its blueberry fields (bleuets) and the cycle route around the lake (Véloroute des Bleuets); check route and length as given by the region.
- Alma and Saint-Gédéon: towns on the south shore with a waterfront promenade and harbour; walks on the lakeshore, blueberry products at the farm shop.
- Parc national de la Pointe-Taillon: peninsula with a sandy beach, cycle paths and dune forest on Lac-Saint-Jean; cycling is the main activity here.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Parc national de la Pointe-Taillon (Sépaq): campground with sand and woodland sites, showers and washroom buildings; check facilities and vehicle length with Sépaq. Reserve through Sépaq, early in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping; overnighting in a tent or vehicle on the lakeshore outside the sites is prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- Bring bikes or rent them on site; the peninsula is ideal for bike rides. Summer thunderstorms at the lake are frequent, so check the weather reports. Blueberries and jam are available at the farm shop on the road.
6Stage 6: Pointe-Taillon to Val-Jalbert (Chambord) (approx. 170 km)
- The drive
- From Pointe-Taillon via Péribonka and Dolbeau-Mistassini, then around the lake to Saint-Félicien, Roberval and Chambord. Mostly flat, with lake views, 90 km/h on country roads, 50 in towns. Driving time is about three hours, a full day with sightseeing.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Péribonka: Maison Louis-Hémon, a museum about the author of “Maria Chapdelaine”; check opening hours in advance.
- Zoo sauvage de Saint-Félicien: wildlife park with Canadian fauna; check opening hours and admission with the park management.
- Village historique de Val-Jalbert: former industrial settlement with a waterfall of around 70 metres; check admission and opening hours in advance.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Campground at the historic village of Val-Jalbert, with sites in a woodland setting; check facilities, opening times and vehicle length with the operator. Alternatively, private campgrounds near Roberval and Saint-Félicien. Book early in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): No legal free camping; lakeside car parks are not meant for overnight stays.
- Insider tip for campers
- The loop around Lac-Saint-Jean is about 250 to 300 kilometres long and is easily spread over several days. Fill up in Alma, Saint-Félicien or Roberval. The Traversée internationale du lac Saint-Jean, a swimming competition in July, brings traffic to Roberval.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Wild camping at the roadside or in car parks is prohibited in Québec and is patrolled by police and municipalities; overnighting in the vehicle at viewpoints and ferry landings is not permitted. On public land (Terres du domaine de l’État) different rights apply to residents and visitors; visitors from abroad should clarify permits and conditions beforehand with the ministry or the municipality.
- Zones d’exploitation contrôlée (ZEC) and Réserves fauniques offer basic campgrounds for a fee; access and road condition are mostly gravel and not suited to large motorhomes.
- Sépaq parks (Grands-Jardins, Hautes-Gorges, Fjord-du-Saguenay, Pointe-Taillon) are the main solution for legal overnight stays; reservations are needed early in summer, and sites are often booked out.
- Wildlife: black bears, moose and lynx live in the forests; store food in the vehicle at night and never leave food out. Mosquitoes and blackflies are a nuisance in early summer.
- Whale watching: keep your distance from whales and seals; on land the rules of the marine park apply; drones are mostly prohibited in protected areas.
- Useful apps: Sépaq (reservations), Parks Canada, iOverlander, Campendium, Québec 511 (road conditions).
- If you are checked in a car park, cooperation helps: stay friendly and leave the spot.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations are available at private campgrounds and some Sépaq sites; clarify details when reserving. Public dump stations are rare.
- Drinking water in Québec is mostly good, and campgrounds have fresh water stations; filter or boil water from rivers and lakes.
- Do not drain grey water onto the ground; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane: petrol stations and dealers fill bottles; European bottles need an adapter; rental motorhomes have fixed tanks.
- Fuel: prices per litre; fill up regularly at petrol stations in Québec, Baie-Saint-Paul, La Malbaie, Chicoutimi and Alma; there is little in the fjord area and in the Hautes-Gorges.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Québec, Baie-Saint-Paul, Chicoutimi, Alma and Roberval; only small shops in the small towns.
- Electricity: campgrounds with hookups mostly offer 15, 30 or 50 A, 120 V; rental motorhomes have suitable cables.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in km/h: motorways mostly 100, country roads 90, in towns 50, in school zones 30 to 40. A motorhome drives like a car; trailers are permitted as signposted.
- Tolls and fees: There are no tolls on this route; the Baie-Sainte-Catherine–Tadoussac and Île-aux-Coudres ferries are free according to the operator, so allow for waits in summer.
- Parks and admission: Sépaq and Parks Canada charge day fees for vehicles; check prices on site and online. Whale boat tours and museums have their own prices.
- Dimensions and lengths: Campgrounds have length limits, so state the vehicle length when booking; the legal maximum height in Québec is mostly 4.15 m (13 ft 6 in), so check road signs at bridges and tunnels.
- Language: Québec is French-speaking, and signs and parking rules are mostly in French only; learn basic words such as “Arrêt” (stop) and “Interdit” (prohibited). English is often understood in tourist towns.
- Reservations: Sépaq (parks), Parks Canada, whale boat tours and ferries depending on the operator; high season is July and August, so book early.
- Weather and season: summer warm and full of mosquitoes, June to October suitable; whale season May to October; autumn foliage late September to early October; in winter many sites close.
- Traffic law for travellers: turning right on red is generally prohibited in Québec unless a sign permits it; open alcohol in the vehicle is prohibited; phones at the wheel hands-free only; seat belts and child seats are compulsory; a German driving licence is enough for tourists, though an international one is recommended.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception is partly weak in the parks and the fjord area; take a map and water on hikes.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Binoculars and a camera with a telephoto lens for Tadoussac and the fjord: belugas, minke whales and seabirds are best observed from a distance.
- Insect repellent and a mosquito net: in the forests and at Lac-Saint-Jean mosquitoes and blackflies are common in early summer.
- Warm jacket and rain gear: on the St. Lawrence and in the fjord it can be cool and wet even in summer, especially on boats.
- Bikes for Pointe-Taillon and Lac-Saint-Jean: the cycle paths are flat and well developed.
- French dictionary or translation app: signs and conversations are mostly in French.
- Printed reservations and offline maps: in the fjord area and in the parks reception partly drops out.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
