In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
About 270 kilometres of country roads, three ferry lines and an archipelago in the rain shadow of the Olympics: from Mukilteo via Whidbey and Deception Pass to Anacortes and on to San Juan and Orcas Island.
The spirit of the route
You travel this route to the rhythm of the ferries. On Whidbey Island the camper rolls along country roads between pastures, oyster beds and steep coasts, Coupeville smells of mussel broth, and at Deception Pass the water runs under the bridge as fast as a river. Then the green Washington State Ferries queue waits in Anacortes, and after about an hour and a half the world is smaller: madrona trees with red bark, rocky islands, harbour seals on reefs, fishing boats. On San Juan Island orcas pass Lime Kiln Point in summer, and on Orcas Island a narrow road leads through Moran State Park to the summit of Mount Constitution. From the sliding door you watch sailing boats in the haze in the evening, and at night it is quiet. The rain shadow brings more sun than in Seattle, but the plan hangs on the timetable: book ferries with a vehicle reservation, allow for long vehicles and bring time.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Seattle to Langley (Whidbey Island) (approx. 55 km)
- The drive
- From Seattle take I-5 north to Mukilteo (about 40 km), then the Washington State Ferries Mukilteo–Clinton route (about 20 minutes) to Whidbey Island and SR 525 and Langley Road a few kilometres further. Most of the traffic builds up before the ferry, especially on Fridays and Sundays; be at the terminal early. On Whidbey the country-road speed is 35–55 mph. Petrol stations in Mukilteo, Clinton and Freeland.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Mukilteo Lighthouse Park: the 1906 lighthouse stands right next to the ferry terminal; access to the beach and a short walk while the ferry is waiting.
- Langley Main Street: small galleries, cafés and a view across Saratoga Passage; park on the edge of the village, as the lanes are tight for large vehicles.
- Double Bluff Beach near Freeland: a long, flat beach at low tide, with a view of Mount Baker; check the tide table.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Camping options in the middle of the island are limited; a solid choice is South Whidbey State Park on the west coast near Freeland: sites with and without hook-ups in old forest (check vehicle length with Washington State Parks), showers and dump station. Alternatively Fort Ebey State Park on the west coast (see stage 2).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping is prohibited everywhere on Whidbey Island except at designated sites; cities and counties patrol car parks and roadsides. Dispersed camping is available in the national forest only on the mainland further east, not on the islands.
- Insider tip for campers
- Vehicle reservations with Washington State Ferries exist only for Anacortes–San Juan Islands (not for the return direction from Lopez and Shaw) and Port Townsend–Coupeville; the Mukilteo–Clinton route, by contrast, runs without reservations in order of arrival. The length and height of the vehicle determine the fare; check the exact dimensions before booking and be at the terminal early in high season.
2Stage 2: Langley to Coupeville and Fort Casey (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Langley take SR 525 north, then SR 20 through Coupeville and minor roads to Fort Casey. Mostly two-lane, with a few climbs; the main route SR 20 has traffic at weekends. Pure driving time is about an hour, half a day with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Coupeville: a historic timber wharf on Penn Cove, known for mussels; a walk out along the wharf and a view of the bay. Parking for motorhomes on the edge of the village.
- Ebey’s Landing National Historical Reserve: the Bluff Trail with a view of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Olympic Mountains; a loop of about 5 miles, bring wind protection.
- Fort Casey Historic State Park: coastal batteries from the early 20th century, Admiralty Head Lighthouse and a view of the Coupeville–Port Townsend ferry; the lighthouse is open seasonally.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Fort Casey Campground in Fort Casey Historic State Park: sites near the coast, showers, check vehicle length with Washington State Parks. Fort Ebey State Park on the west coast: sites in the forest and a view of the strait, simple, no hook-ups; check access and vehicle length. Reserve via Washington State Parks.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): There are no legal free-camping sites for motorhomes on Whidbey Island; staying overnight in park and beach car parks is prohibited and enforced.
- Insider tip for campers
- Buy fresh food and mussels in Coupeville; stock the fridge before heading to the islands. The coastal road between Fort Casey and Fort Ebey is narrow; large vehicles are better off staying on the main road, SR 20.
3Stage 3: Coupeville to Anacortes (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- Take SR 20 north to Deception Pass and over the bridges (Canoe Pass and Deception Pass) to Fidalgo Island, then on to Anacortes. The footpaths on the bridges are narrow; cars should not stop on the bridges. Pure driving time is about an hour. In Anacortes the ferry terminal is at the end of 12th Street.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Deception Pass Bridge: two steel bridges from 1935 over the current; a footpath over the bridge and views from the car parks on both sides. The water runs fast at the turn of the tide; the times are in the tide tables.
- Rosario Head and Rosario Beach near Anacortes: a short walk on the coast with tide pools in Deception Pass State Park.
- Anacortes Historic District and Cap Sante: a viewpoint above the harbour; the road to Cap Sante Park is tight for large vehicles, so go on foot or by bike.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Deception Pass State Park: Cranberry Lake Campground by the lake, Quarry Pond and Bowman Bay; some sites with hook-ups (check the park side), showers and dump station. Reserve via Washington State Parks; vehicle lengths differ by campground. Alternatively Washington Park in Anacortes (a seaside city park), a simple site; check length limits.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Anacortes and the surrounding area staying overnight in a vehicle outside the designated sites is not permitted; enforcement is particularly active in parks and at the ferry terminal.
- Insider tip for campers
- At the Anacortes ferry terminal: arrive early before departure for San Juan or Orcas; even with a reservation, arrival time counts. There are supermarkets near the terminal; fill up with water, food and fuel before the crossing, as prices on the islands are higher and the selection smaller.
4Stage 4: Anacortes to Friday Harbor (San Juan Island) (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- Take Washington State Ferries from Anacortes to Friday Harbor (about an hour and a half to two hours, with a stop at Lopez or Orcas depending on the timetable). On the island there are only a few roads, mostly two-lane, with speeds of 25–45 mph; the route from the harbour to Lime Kiln Point is about 15 km. Deer crossing the road are common, especially at dusk.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Friday Harbor: a ferry town with a harbour, the whale museum (The Whale Museum) and cafés; parking for large vehicles is scarce, so come early or leave the vehicle at the campground.
- Lime Kiln Point State Park: a whale-watching park with a lighthouse on the west coast; orcas sometimes pass close by in summer, but never guaranteed. Allow time and patience.
- San Juan Island National Historical Park (American Camp and English Camp): traces of the Pig War of 1859; trails across the prairie, with a view of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Check the opening times of the visitor centres.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: San Juan County Park on the west coast: sites on the water, simple facilities, limited spaces for large vehicles; reserve via San Juan County Parks, check length. Alternatively Lakedale Resort is private and therefore not named. On San Juan Island the sites are booked up early in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping is not permitted on San Juan Island; parking overnight at viewpoints and in parks is prohibited. If you cannot get a site, you will have to move to other islands.
- Insider tip for campers
- There are few dump stations on the islands; plan to empty at campgrounds or at one of the stations and clarify beforehand. The ferry is fare-paying westbound from Anacortes; check the details and fare rules for vehicles with Washington State Ferries.
5Stage 5: Friday Harbor to Orcas Island (Eastsound) (approx. 45 km)
- The drive
- From Friday Harbor take the ferry to Orcas Island (crossing about an hour; there are no vehicle reservations on the inter-island ferries), then Orcas Road to Eastsound. The island has narrow, winding roads; the main road is paved. Driving time on the island is about 30–40 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Eastsound: the island’s main village with shops and cafés; park on the edge, as the streets are tight for large vehicles.
- Turtleback Mountain Preserve: hiking trails with views, on the edge of Eastsound; access on minor roads, small car park.
- Cascade Bay and the Rosario coastal stretch: a view of the bay from the road; parking spaces are small, so stop briefly.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Moran State Park: Cascade Lake, Mountain Lake, Midway and Southend; sites in the forest and by the lake, showers, dump station, length limits differ by campground; reserve via Washington State Parks, booked up very early. Check vehicle lengths beforehand.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On Orcas Island free camping is not permitted; staying overnight in a vehicle only at campgrounds. Checks take place at viewpoints and beach car parks.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with fresh water at the taps in Moran State Park; the island has few shops, so buy food on the mainland beforehand. Mobile signal is sometimes weak.
6Stage 6: Orcas Island to Anacortes (approx. 40 km)
- The drive
- From Eastsound take the road into Moran State Park up to Mount Constitution (about 8 km of climbing, narrow and winding), then back to the ferry at Orcas Village and on to Anacortes (about an hour and a half). The summit road is restricted for long vehicles and combinations; observe the signs and limits.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Mount Constitution: at 734 m the highest point of the islands, with a stone tower from 1936 and a panorama of the archipelago and Mount Baker. Little visibility in fog.
- Cascade Falls in Moran State Park: a waterfall with a short path from the car park; good for a break.
- Orcas Village: a ferry harbour with a café and a small shop; be at the terminal early.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: For the last night before the return journey: Moran State Park (see stage 5) or in Anacortes Washington Park or Deception Pass State Park, if sites are free. Reserve via Washington State Parks.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): At the ferry terminal and in Anacortes too, staying overnight in a vehicle is not permitted. No legal alternative.
- Insider tip for campers
- Allow plenty of time when waiting at the Orcas Village terminal; with a reservation, be at the terminal early. The ferry is heavily booked in summer, and without a reservation there may be long waits. Rental motorhomes often require emptied tanks on return.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- On Whidbey, Fidalgo and the San Juan Islands, staying overnight in a vehicle outside designated sites is prohibited everywhere. Municipalities and county sheriffs patrol beach car parks, viewpoints and ferry terminals; fines can be high.
- Dispersed camping is allowed in the state of Washington in the National Forests on the mainland, but not on the islands. For this route there is no legal alternative to campgrounds.
- Supermarket and ferry car parks mostly do not allow overnight stays; ask in the shop, otherwise do not risk it.
- Wildlife: orcas, harbour seals and bald eagles are protected; minimum distances apply to marine mammals (several hundred metres for orcas; check the current rule from NOAA and the state), no drones, do not feed. Deer are common and run onto the road.
- Useful apps and sites: iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, Washington State Parks reservations, San Juan County Parks, Washington State Ferries (timetable and reservations).
- Summer weekends are booked up for a long time on the islands; plan flexibly, make reservations early and note down alternatives on the mainland (Deception Pass, Fort Casey).
- If checked, stay friendly and leave the site; fines for rental motorhomes mostly end up with the rental company.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations: South Whidbey State Park, Deception Pass State Park, Fort Casey and Moran State Park have waste disposal; on the islands the supply is scarce, so plan disposal beforehand. Overview at sanidumps.com.
- Drinking water: campgrounds have taps, but on the islands water can be scarce; fill up before the crossing. Do not drink from streams without a filter.
- Never discharge grey water onto the ground or into the water; empty chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane in Anacortes, Oak Harbor and Friday Harbor; European gas bottles need an adapter and are rarely refilled.
- Fuel: petrol stations in Mukilteo, Clinton, Freeland, Coupeville, Anacortes, Friday Harbor and Eastsound; prices on the islands are higher, so fill up completely in Anacortes.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Mukilteo, Oak Harbor, Anacortes; on the islands smaller shops with higher prices.
- Electricity: sites with hook-ups offer 30 and 50 A at 120 V; in State Parks without hook-ups plan on the leisure battery; generators only at set times.
- Laundry and rubbish: coin laundries in Oak Harbor, Anacortes and Friday Harbor; rubbish in the campground containers, leave nothing behind.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: highways 50–60 mph, on the islands mostly 25–45 mph, in towns 25–35 mph. Slow vehicles let faster ones pass at suitable places.
- Ferries: Washington State Ferries take motorhomes; the fare depends on length and height, and a reservation is recommended for Anacortes–San Juan Islands. Check fare rules and departure times at wsdot.com/ferries; Mukilteo–Clinton without reservation. No tolls on the route.
- Parks and entrance fees: Washington State Parks require a Discover Pass or day fee; the America the Beautiful Pass is valid on federal land, not in State Parks. For San Juan Island National Historical Park check the current admission rules on nps.gov.
- Dimensions and lengths: many island sites are limited to 25–35 ft; check length limits when booking. The Mount Constitution summit road is restricted for long vehicles.
- Reservations: Washington State Parks up to nine months ahead, San Juan County Parks through the county; high season booked up early.
- Weather and season: the rain shadow brings more sun than in Seattle; July to September is driest. Orcas are more frequent from May to September. Wind and fog can delay ferries.
- Traffic law: right turn on red after stopping is allowed, open alcohol containers in the vehicle are prohibited, phones at the wheel only hands-free. A German driving licence is sufficient for tourists.
- Emergency: 911; mobile signal is sometimes weak on the islands. Do not underestimate the tidal currents at Deception Pass; do not enter the current.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Levelling ramps, level 2–3 – island sites are often sloping, and the ground in the forests is soft.
- Binoculars and a tide table for orcas, harbour seals, seabirds and tide pools; a windproof jacket, as a cool wind often blows on ferries and on the coast.
- Ferry reservation and vehicle details (length, height) printed or to hand offline; allow for waiting times at terminals.
- Water containers (20 l) and a stock of food – on the islands selection and prices are worse.
- Rain jacket and mosquito repellent: the weather changes quickly, and in the forests there are insects in summer.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
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