In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
Around 220 km from Pontremoli through the castle country of the Lunigiana via Fosdinovo to Carrara and the marble quarries, then through the Serchio valley with the Ponte del Diavolo to Barga and into the Garfagnana as far as Castiglione.
The spirit of the route
Between Liguria and Tuscany lies a landscape that rarely appears in the travel brochure: the Lunigiana, a valley full of Malaspina castles, chestnut woods and statue stelae from the Bronze Age. Behind it rise the Apuan Alps, whose limestone walls look as if snow lay on the summits – it is marble, sawn out for 2,000 years. The motorhome stands by a stream, mist drifts over the chestnut woods outside the window, a regional station plays on the radio, and in the morning it smells of wood smoke and bread. Further south the Garfagnana opens up with its Serchio valley, mountain villages, farro and chestnut flour, pecorino and hiking trails through beech forest. Here you drive slowly, because of the bends and because every village you pass through is worth a visit of its own.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Pontremoli to Aulla (approx. 35 km)
- The drive
- From Pontremoli on the SS62 della Cisa south-east through the Magra valley, flat to gently hilly, with narrow roads through the villages (Villafranca, Filattiera). About 45 minutes. The A15 to Parma runs parallel and is a toll road.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Pontremoli: old town with Piazza della Repubblica, the Castello del Piagnaro and the Museo delle Statue Stele Lunigianesi.
- Filattiera and Pieve di Sorano: Romanesque pieve in the Lunigiana, Malaspina castles.
- Aulla: Fortezza della Brunella with the Museo di Storia Naturale della Lunigiana.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Around Pontremoli and Aulla there are small campsites and aree di sosta; selection and opening change, so check beforehand and phone ahead. Many are open seasonally (spring to autumn).
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Wild camping is not allowed in the Lunigiana; quiet car parks by rivers or woods are mostly prohibition zones. In the car parks of the villages it is in part tolerated where signs are absent – without camping behaviour.
- Insider tip for campers
- Castles and the stelae museum have fixed opening hours, especially out of season only by prior arrangement. Buy local specialities such as testaroli (pancake pasta) and chestnut flour in the shops of the old town.
2Stage 2: Aulla to Fosdinovo (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- From Aulla on the SP via Tendola in switchbacks up to Fosdinovo; the road is narrow, winding and in sections without crash barriers, and the approach to the castle is hardly suitable for large motorhomes. About 40 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Castello Malaspina di Fosdinovo: castle with views of the coast and the Apuan Alps.
- Old town of Fosdinovo with narrow lanes; park on the edge of the village.
- Hiking trails on Monte Sagro (detour, check trails beforehand).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and around Fosdinovo there are agriturismi and small aree di sosta; offers change, so check beforehand. Larger vehicles will find sites more easily on the plain near Luni or Carrara.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the car parks in Fosdinovo overnighting is only possible where it is allowed; wild camping in the mountains is prohibited, and in summer there is a risk of forest fire.
- Insider tip for campers
- The route to Fosdinovo is hardly suitable for vehicles over about 7 m; if in doubt, continue on the main road to Carrara. The castle has fixed visiting times and guided tours, so clarify beforehand.
3Stage 3: Fosdinovo to Carrara (approx. 20 km)
- The drive
- From Fosdinovo down the main road to the plain and on to Carrara. The roads through the villages are narrow, and there is a ZTL in the city. About 30 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Carrara: old town with the cathedral and the Accademia di Belle Arti.
- Museo Civico del Marmo: the history of marble extraction.
- Marina di Carrara with its beach and the port for marble loading.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Around Carrara and Marina di Carrara there are aree di sosta and campsites on the coast; selection and opening change, so check beforehand. Coastal sites are mostly open from spring to autumn.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In and around Carrara parking for motorhomes is often restricted to certain areas; overnighting outside designated sites is policed. On the beach at Marina di Carrara the municipality’s ordinances apply.
- Insider tip for campers
- Do not drive into the ZTL of Carrara. If you want to visit the quarries, choose guided tours in off-road vehicles, as the road to the quarries is narrow, steep and used by marble lorries.
4Stage 4: Carrara to Colonnata (approx. 15 km)
- The drive
- From Carrara over the marble road (Strada dei Marmi) through tunnels and hairpin bends up to Colonnata; the route is used by marble lorries, is unsuitable for large motorhomes and may be restricted – follow signs and notices from the municipality of Carrara. About 30 minutes. Alternatively a shuttle or off-road tour from Carrara.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Cave di Fantiscritti: marble quarries with a museum and viewpoints.
- Colonnata: village known for Lardo di Colonnata, cured in marble basins.
- Cava Gioia/quarry tours: tours into the quarries (book beforehand).
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: The motorhome is better left on a site in Carrara or on the coast; in Colonnata itself there is hardly any pitch space for motorhomes. Check current options in the apps and with the tour operators.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the quarries and villages overnighting for motorhomes is not provided for; the roads are working routes. Wild camping in the Apuan Alps is protected by nature conservation (Parco Regionale delle Alpi Apuane).
- Insider tip for campers
- Marble quarries are slippery in the rain; wear sturdy shoes. Lardo di Colonnata carries the IGP seal; buy it in the village and check refrigeration.
5Stage 5: Carrara to Borgo a Mozzano (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- From Carrara on the A12 (toll) towards Viareggio, then on the A11 to Lucca and on the SS12 del Brennero into the Serchio valley to Borgo a Mozzano. Motorway is quick, from Lucca country road with roads through villages; about 1.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Ponte della Maddalena (Ponte del Diavolo) in Borgo a Mozzano: medieval arched bridge over the Serchio, with a legend.
- Lucca (detour): city walls, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro and the Torre Guinigi.
- Hiking trails in the Parco Regionale delle Alpi Apuane.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In Borgo a Mozzano and the lower Serchio valley there are small campsites and aree di sosta; the selection changes, so check beforehand. In Lucca itself there are municipal pitches; check the current status in the apps.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Overnighting away from designated sites is not customary in the Serchio valley; quiet car parks at bridges are mostly prohibition spots. The municipalities police this especially in summer.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Ponte del Diavolo stands on the main road and can be reached with a few parking spaces; visit early in the day. Lucca is suited to a day trip by bike along the city walls.
6Stage 6: Borgo a Mozzano to Barga (approx. 20 km)
- The drive
- On the SS12 and the SP up to Barga; the approach to the old town is narrow and ZTL, and the car parks lie below. About 30 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Duomo di Barga with a view over the Serchio valley and the Apuan Alps.
- Old town of Barga: narrow lanes and a Scottish connection (a town of emigrants).
- Museo Civico, Opera Barga Festival in summer.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and around Barga there are aree di sosta and agriturismi; offers change, so check beforehand. A pitch below the old town makes sense for motorhomes.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the old town of Barga overnighting is not allowed; the car parks on the edge mostly tolerate parking only. Wild camping in the surrounding area is prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- The climb to the old town is steep, with cobblestones; wear sturdy footwear. Barga is known for its opera festival and hiking trails; allow time for the view.
7Stage 7: Barga to Castiglione di Garfagnana (approx. 30 km)
- The drive
- On the SS445 della Garfagnana along the Serchio via Castelnuovo di Garfagnana to Castiglione; moderately winding, with roads through villages, about 50 minutes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Castelnuovo di Garfagnana: Rocca Ariostesca and market.
- Castiglione di Garfagnana: medieval village with a town wall.
- Orecchiella nature park (detour): hiking trails, wildlife and park centre.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Around Castelnuovo and Castiglione there are campsites, aree di sosta and agriturismi; selection and opening change. Out of season a prior enquiry is necessary.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In the Parco dell’Orecchiella and the Apuane nature park a ban on wild camping applies; in car parks on the edge overnighting is in places tolerated, but without camping behaviour.
- Insider tip for campers
- Garfagnana specialities: farro, chestnut flour, pecorino and pork products (biroldo). Before hikes check trail conditions and the weather; in winter mountain roads are often icy.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Italian law (Codice della Strada, Art. 185) distinguishes parking (“sosta”) from camping (“campeggio”): a motorhome may stand and overnight wherever parking is allowed, as long as it touches the ground only with its wheels. Chairs, tables, awning, stabilisers, wedges and drained grey water are prohibited; municipal ordinances and signs (“divieto di sosta camper”) take precedence.
- In the Lunigiana and Garfagnana wild camping is not allowed; parking and overnighting are only possible where no ban applies. The Tosco-Emiliano National Park and the Parco Regionale delle Alpi Apuane prohibit wild camping.
- Protected areas (national parks, reserves, Natura 2000 zones) have their own rules set by their authorities; do not camp on spec outside designated sites, but ask the park or municipality beforehand.
- Useful apps: park4night, CamperOnline (Italian, with up-to-date user reports) and Campercontact; check the current status of aree di sosta beforehand, as many small sites change fees and opening times.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Fresh water and waste disposal is called “camper service” or “carico e scarico”. Most aree attrezzate have a station, often with a token or coins; campsites usually let passing travellers dispose of waste for a fee.
- Empty grey water and the cassette only at the station; wild dumping is a main reason for new motorhome bans in municipalities.
- Tap water in Italy is usually drinkable; look for “acqua potabile”; in high summer there can be local restrictions – fill the tank before mountain and coastal stages.
- Gas: German exchange cylinders are not exchanged in Italy. Refillable cylinders and gas tanks are filled at GPL filling stations with the Italian adapter; often only the staff do the filling. Arrive with two full cylinders.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits: motorhomes up to 3.5 t 90 km/h outside built-up areas, 110 km/h on expressways, 130 km/h on motorways; over 3.5 t 80 km/h outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on motorways. Caravan combinations: 70 km/h outside built-up areas, 80 km/h on motorways. Dipped headlights are required outside built-up areas even in daytime.
- ZTL exist in Pontremoli, Carrara, Barga, Lucca and many old towns; cameras also record foreign number plates. The route to the marble quarries and to Colonnata is narrow and unsuitable for large motorhomes.
- Tolls: the A12 and the A15 are toll roads; the SS62, SS12 and SS445 are toll-free. In the Apuan Alps driving bans for vehicles above certain dimensions apply in places – follow the signs.
- If a load projects beyond the rear, for example bikes on a rear carrier, the red-and-white warning panel (50 × 50 cm) is compulsory. Alcohol limit 0.5, for novice and professional drivers 0.0; mobile phone while driving only with a hands-free kit. Between 15 November and 15 April winter equipment (snow chains or winter tyres) may be required on many routes – follow the signs.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Hiking boots with tread for the Apuan Alps and Garfagnana: trails are stony and wet in autumn.
- Compact head torch for dusk and narrow village lanes.
- Rain jacket: the Apuan Alps are one of the rainiest areas of Italy.
- Folding bike or e-bike for Lucca (circuit of the walls) and the flat Serchio valley.
- Cool box for lardo, pecorino and salumi from the Garfagnana.
- Snow-chain equipment from late autumn for mountain roads.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
