In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the Bow Valley along the Bow Valley Parkway to Kananaskis Country and over Highwood Pass: Rocky Mountains classics with a laid-back counterpart away from the crowds.
The spirit of the route
The Canadian Rockies show two faces here. In Banff National Park lie Lake Louise, Johnston Canyon and the Bow Valley Parkway, with glacial water in turquoise, limestone peaks and visitor numbers that reach their limits in summer. If you get up early in the morning, you have moose at the roadside and the mountains in the haze to yourself. A few kilometres further south Kananaskis Country opens up: lakes beneath rock walls, meadows full of mountain flowers and the Smith-Dorrien Trail, a gravel road along Spray Lakes Reservoir. On Highwood Pass, the highest paved pass in Canada, the camper stands in the mountain wind, and in autumn the larches glow gold. The route rewards planning: reservations early, bear spray within reach, an eye on the weather forecast. In return the evenings are long, the air is clear and the crackle of a campfire is part of the programme, where it is allowed.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: Calgary to Canmore (approx. 105 km)
- The drive
- From Calgary, Trans-Canada Highway 1 leads west, four lanes, speed 110 km/h, getting closer to the Rockies; from the park entrance near Banff you enter the mountain region. The pure driving time is about 1.25 hours. Petrol stations and supermarkets in Calgary, Cochrane and Canmore. Well built, but busy in high season, especially at weekends.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Barrier Lake and Kananaskis Visitor Centre: first orientation for Kananaskis Country, maps and information. Check opening times beforehand.
- Three Sisters Mountain: a view of the three peaks from the highway, near Canmore.
- Canmore: a mountain town with bakeries, shops and cafés, good supplies for campers.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Bow Valley Provincial Park (near Canmore, Alberta Parks): Willow Rock and Three Sisters Campground, water and toilets, partly hook-ups; check the length limit and status beforehand. Reserve through the Alberta Parks portal. In Canmore itself there are also private RV parks. Booked out early in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Banff National Park and in provincial parks, free camping is prohibited. Alberta allows camping for up to 14 days on public land in many areas; special rules apply in Kananaskis Country, so check with Alberta Parks before the trip.
- Insider tip for campers
- Before entering the park, fill up with fuel, shop and fill up with water in Canmore. A Parks Canada pass is required for Banff National Park; check current fees, including for foreign visitors, at parks.canada.ca. In Kananaskis Country a Conservation Pass is required for vehicles.
2Stage 2: Canmore to Banff (approx. 25 km)
- The drive
- A short stretch on Trans-Canada Highway 1 to Banff, four lanes, speed 90–110 km/h in the park, with wildlife fences and wildlife crossings. Banff lies at the foot of Mount Rundle, and the approach is often busy at weekends. The pure driving time is about 20–30 minutes, but parking in town is tight for motorhomes.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Vermilion Lakes: lakes on the edge of town with reflections of Mount Rundle, especially in the morning and evening.
- Lake Minnewanka: a long mountain lake north of Banff with paths along the shore. Some areas are temporarily closed (e.g. Sheep Point in spring, cycling ban 10 July to 15 September); check current notices from Parks Canada.
- Banff Springs and Bow Falls: viewpoints on the river, short walks.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Tunnel Mountain Village I (without hook-ups, until 5 October in 2026) and Tunnel Mountain Village II (with electricity, year-round) run by Parks Canada: large campgrounds near the town; check lengths and opening times in advance. Also Two Jack Lakeside (until 5 October in 2026) on Lake Minnewanka Road. Reserve through the Parks Canada portal; dates are released early in the year and are quickly taken.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Free camping is strictly prohibited in the national park, and heavy fines apply. Outside the park, public land areas in Alberta can be used; clarify the rules beforehand.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Banff, park motorhomes outside the town centre and use the Roam bus; parking spaces for large vehicles are limited. Do not disturb wildlife (moose, wapiti) during the autumn rut, and keep your distance.
3Stage 3: Banff to Lake Louise (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- Via the Bow Valley Parkway (Highway 1A) westwards: a quiet, winding road with a speed of 60 km/h, wildlife crossings and a view of the Bow River. For wildlife protection, the 17 km section east of Johnston Canyon Campground is closed at night (8 pm to 8 am) from 1 March to 25 June; further restrictions can come at short notice, so check the status with Parks Canada. Alternatively Trans-Canada Highway 1, the same length but faster. The pure driving time is about 1–1.5 hours, and with stops a whole day.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Johnston Canyon: a hiking trail on walkways to waterfalls in a gorge, quieter early in the day or in the evening. Check status and time windows beforehand.
- Castle Mountain: a distinctive peak on the Bow Valley Parkway, rest areas with views.
- Lake Louise: a glacial lake with turquoise water; access via shuttle and car parks, according to Parks Canada rules. Moraine Lake is accessible only by shuttle or bus, not by private vehicle.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Lake Louise Campground (Parks Canada): a forest campground near the village, tent area in summer only, area for vehicles with electricity year-round, water and washrooms; check the length limit in advance. Also Johnston Canyon Campground on the Bow Valley Parkway, simpler (open only until 14 September in 2026). Reserve through the Parks Canada portal; almost always booked out in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Banff National Park free camping is prohibited and is checked. On public land outside the park boundary camping is possible; clarify access roads and rules beforehand.
- Insider tip for campers
- Visit Lake Louise and Moraine Lake only early and use the shuttle system; car parks fill up quickly. Do not forget bear spray, as bears are common in the valley. Stock up on supplies in Banff or Lake Louise Village.
4Stage 4: Lake Louise to Canmore (approx. 80 km)
- The drive
- Return on Trans-Canada Highway 1 south-east, four lanes and well built, speed 90–110 km/h in the park. The pure driving time is about 1 hour. In Canmore you can top up water and supplies before heading to Kananaskis. In autumn there is heavy traffic from photographers and hikers.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Lake Louise Gondola and viewpoints of the mountains: short paths at the roadside.
- Rest areas on the Trans-Canada Highway with a view of the Bow River and the peaks, a good stopover.
- Bow Falls and Banff Avenue at dusk: a walk, if there is time.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Bow Valley Provincial Park (Canmore) or a private RV park in town for the night; check reservations in advance. For Kananaskis the next morning, Canmore is the logical starting point.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Prohibited in the park; in Alberta possible on public land outside the park, observing the rules.
- Insider tip for campers
- In Canmore fill the water tank, empty the waste water and fill up with fuel before heading onto the gravel stretch. Rental motorhomes often have restrictions on gravel roads, so ask the rental company beforehand.
5Stage 5: Canmore to Kananaskis Lakes (approx. 85 km)
- The drive
- Via the Smith-Dorrien Trail (Highway 742) southwards: around 60 km of gravel road along Spray Lakes Reservoir, with washboard, potholes and changing condition, speeds mostly up to 70 km/h. The route is feasible for campers but demanding for large motorhomes and trailers; in rain or snow, check the condition beforehand. Alternatively via Highway 1 and Highway 40 through Kananaskis Village. The pure driving time is about 2–2.5 hours.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Spray Lakes Reservoir: a large reservoir with a mountain backdrop, rest areas on the shore.
- Mount Engadine and Smith-Dorrien: a gravel route with views of the peaks; hiking trails branching off.
- Upper Kananaskis Lake: a mountain lake in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park with paths along the shore and views of the peaks.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: Spray Lakes West Campground on the Smith-Dorrien (Alberta Parks): a simple campground on the lake; in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park Boulton Creek, Elkwood, Lower Lakes and Interlakes Campground. Water and toilets mostly available, hook-ups only partly; check the length limit for each campground in advance. Reserve through the Alberta Parks portal, and book early in summer.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Kananaskis Country there are random camping zones designated by Alberta Parks; check rules, maps and fire bans locally. In provincial parks themselves free camping is prohibited.
- Insider tip for campers
- The Kananaskis Conservation Pass applies to all vehicles that stop in the area; buy it online beforehand. Set off with a spare wheel and water, as mobile reception on the gravel stretch is patchy. Bear spray, and caution around moose.
6Stage 6: Kananaskis Lakes to Calgary (approx. 200 km)
- The drive
- Via Highway 40 south through Highwood Pass (2,206 m, the highest paved pass in Canada) and on to Longview, then Highway 22 and Highway 2 to Calgary. In winter Highway 40 between Highwood Junction and Kananaskis Lakes is usually closed from December to mid-June; check the status. The pure driving time is about 3.5 hours. Petrol stations in Longview and Okotoks.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Highwood Pass: a high mountain crossing with hiking trails, meadows in summer and larches in autumn.
- Longview: a town at the foot of the Rockies with mountain views and shops, known for its Western flair.
- Calgary: skyline and Bow River as the end of the trip.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
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Official campsite or RV park: In and around Calgary there are several RV parks; reserve in advance. Alternatively Mount Kidd RV Park (Alberta Parks) near Kananaskis Village with hook-ups and a dump station; check status and dates.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): Prohibited within the city; public land outside possible, observing the rules.
- Insider tip for campers
- Before returning the vehicle in Calgary, empty the waste water, fill the tank and mind the rental conditions. Drive over Highwood Pass early in the morning, as wildlife and cyclists are common.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- In national parks (Banff) and provincial parks, free camping is prohibited; Parks Canada and Alberta Parks carry out checks and impose fines. Overnighting is allowed only on designated campgrounds.
- In Alberta, camping on public land is possible in many places for up to 14 days in one spot; in Kananaskis Country there are random camping zones. Check maps, rules and fire bans beforehand with Alberta Parks, take your rubbish with you and protect water sources.
- Wildlife: grizzlies and black bears are widespread, as well as wapiti, which can be aggressive during the autumn rut; carry bear spray within reach, keep a distance of at least 30 m from moose and wapiti, and store food securely.
- Fire: campfires only in designated fire pits and only without a fire ban; bans are frequent in late summer.
- Useful apps: iOverlander, Campendium, Park4Night, the Parks Canada portal, the Alberta Parks portal and 511 Alberta for road conditions.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations: Parks Canada campgrounds in Banff National Park (e.g. Tunnel Mountain and Lake Louise, check facilities in advance), Mount Kidd RV Park in Kananaskis, and at RV parks in Canmore and Calgary; partly for a fee. sanidumps.com provides an overview.
- Drinking water: tap water is drinkable; at simple campgrounds bring canisters and a filter.
- Empty grey water and chemical toilets only at dump stations.
- Propane in Canmore, Banff and Calgary; European gas cylinders are not compatible.
- Fuel: petrol stations in Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise, Kananaskis Village and Longview; none on the Smith-Dorrien Trail. Fill up before the gravel stretch.
- Shopping: supermarkets in Canmore, Banff and Lake Louise Village; prices in the park are higher. Fill the cool box before the park.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in km/h: Trans-Canada Highway in the park 90–110, Bow Valley Parkway 60, Highway 40 in Kananaskis 90, Smith-Dorrien Trail mostly up to 70, in towns 50.
- Fees: a Parks Canada pass is required for Banff National Park, and a Conservation Pass for Kananaskis Country; check current amounts and rules for foreign visitors on the official websites. No tolls, no low-emission zones.
- Dimensions: the legal height in Canada is usually 4.15 m, width 2.6 m; car parks and parking lots in Banff have restrictions, and campground length limits must be observed.
- Reservations: Parks Canada and Alberta Parks through their own portals; dates for Banff are released early in the year and are quickly taken. If unavailable, fall back on walk-in sites and private RV parks.
- Weather and season: summer short and mild, nights cool, snow possible from October; Highway 40 is closed in winter between Highwood Junction and Kananaskis Lakes (check status).
- Traffic law: right turn on red after a stop is allowed unless a sign prohibits it; mobile phones at the wheel only hands-free; seat belts and child seats are compulsory in motorhomes too. A German driving licence is sufficient for tourists.
- Emergency: 911; mobile reception is limited in places, and there are emergency call posts in the park. An offline map and an emergency plan are sensible.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Bear spray (cannot be transported on a plane, buy it locally) – indispensable in the Rockies, and carry it within reach.
- Warm layers, hat and gloves – at 1,500–2,200 m it can freeze at night even in summer.
- Spare wheel and tyre repair kit – the Smith-Dorrien Trail is gravel with sharp-edged stones.
- Binoculars and a telephoto lens – for wapiti, mountain goats and distant peaks.
- Water canisters and a filter – for simple campgrounds without drinking water.
- Offline map, printed reservations and pass receipts – mobile reception is patchy.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
