In-depth guide · CampingSpirit
From the sandstone walls of Zion Canyon via pink sand dunes near Kanab to the hoodoos of Bryce: five stages through Utah’s stepped country.
The spirit of the route
This part of Utah is like a staircase of rock: you drive from the hot desert floor near St. George up through Zion’s red and white cliffs, over pink dunes near Kanab and the tracks of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument into the cool pine forests of Bryce. In Zion Canyon the Virgin River flows through cottonwoods, and the walls rise 600 metres vertically; in the morning it smells of water and sage, in the evening the rocks still give off warmth. In Kanab the town sits like an old western film, and in Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park junipers stand in the fine sand. The further north you go, the higher the land, and in Bryce Canyon hoodoos stand in the morning light like organ pipes. The route rewards advance planning: Zion demands shuttle discipline and the tunnel permits, and everywhere the rule is: take water, check the weather, start early.
Stage-by-stage plan
1Stage 1: St. George to Springdale (Zion) (approx. 65 km)
- The drive
- From St. George take UT-9 east via Hurricane and La Verkin: a wide road, 55–65 mph, with bends and gorge scenery towards the end. Springdale lies right at the park entrance. Pure driving time about an hour. Fuel in St. George, Hurricane or Springdale; prices in Springdale are higher.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Zion Canyon Visitor Center: entry to the park, shuttle stop, information on closures and permits; the car park is full even in the morning, so come early on busy days.
- Canyon Overlook Trail: a short trail (about 1.6 km) on the east side with a view into the canyon; the car park is small and unsuitable for long vehicles.
- Riverside Walk and The Narrows (Virgin River): wading through the gorge is a highlight, but only at low water levels and with a weather warning; mind the current and temperature, rental equipment in Springdale.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Watchman Campground in Zion National Park: a larger site at the entrance with pitches with electric hook-up, water, toilets, and showers nearby; reserve via Recreation.gov and check length limits on the booking page. South Campground (Zion) is currently being thoroughly renovated and was closed in early 2026; check for reopening at nps.gov. Private RV parks in Springdale and Hurricane offer pitches with hook-ups for larger vehicles.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Zion National Park, only on designated campgrounds. In Dixie National Forest and on BLM land outside the park (for example on UT-9 towards Hurricane and east of Mt. Carmel), dispersed camping is possible in some places; check the map and current fire restrictions, and do not camp on private land or state trust land (SITLA).
- Insider tip for campers
- Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is closed to private vehicles in the main season, when the park shuttle runs (check season and operation at nps.gov); a parking space in the town of Springdale with the shuttle saves time. Angels Landing requires a permit (lottery), so check the current rules beforehand. Top up water bottles, the park has water stations.
2Stage 2: Springdale to Kanab (approx. 90 km)
- The drive
- From Springdale take the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway (UT-9) through the park: switchbacks, then the 1.1-mile Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel (opened 1930) and afterwards the high plateau with slickrock; on to Mt. Carmel Junction and south on US-89 to Kanab. Vehicles over 11 ft 4 in (3.45 m) high, 7 ft 10 in (2.39 m) wide or 35 ft 9 in (10.9 m) long (in each case including mirrors and roof fittings, also many rental motorhomes) may pass through the tunnel only under the NPS special rules (so far a paid escort with one-lane traffic control; check current rules and fees at nps.gov); the tunnel route is narrow and winding. Pure driving time about 1.5 hours, half a day with stops.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway viewpoints: pullouts with views of Checkerboard Mesa and the rock walls; quick stops right by the road.
- Mt. Carmel Junction and Coral Pink Sand Dunes Road: turn-off south to the state park; the turn-off is on Hancock Road north of Kanab.
- Kanab: western film set, film museum, Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument visitor centre (main street); information on hikes such as Buckskin Gulch and The Wave (permit, lottery) is available here.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: In Kanab, private RV parks offer pitches with hook-ups, showers and washing machines; good for the intermediate stop. In Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park (stage 3) there is a campground with a limited number of pitches.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On BLM land around Kanab (Johnson Canyon, Hog Canyon, US-89 towards Page), dispersed camping is possible in several places; access roads are often tracks, partly sandy. Observe the fire and camping rules of the BLM Kanab Field Office, and stock up on water.
- Insider tip for campers
- Check your vehicle’s dimensions beforehand and allow enough time for the escort at the tunnel passage; for large vehicles the tunnel is run as one lane. Drivers should be rested, as it is dark and tight in the tunnel.
3Stage 3: Kanab to Coral Pink Sand Dunes and back (approx. 60 km)
- The drive
- From Kanab take US-89 north, then Hancock Road to the state park (about 35 km in total from Kanab), the last part on a paved road: moderately winding, 35–55 mph, little traffic. Pure driving time about 45 minutes. With detours to Moquith Mountain or the BLM trail, half a day. Fuel up in Kanab.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park: pink sand dunes with junipers; walks to the dunes (sand, heat). Rules apply for sandboarding and OHV areas.
- Moquith Mountain Wilderness Study Area: less visited than the state park, a high plateau with a view of the dunes.
- Johnson Canyon: landscape with sandstone walls; Johnson Canyon Road branches off US-89 east of Kanab, a short detour into western film scenery.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park Campground: around 34 pitches in the sand among junipers, with toilets and showers; only some of the pitches (the newer loop) have electricity and water, check vehicle lengths on the Utah State Parks site, reservation recommended. The pitches are partly tight and in sand, so only conditionally suitable for long vehicles. Alternatively, a private RV park in Kanab.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): On BLM land around the state park (Hog Canyon, Moquith Mountain, Kanab Creek), dispersed camping is permitted in some places, but sand tracks are treacherous for campers. Stay on firm access roads only, avoid soft patches, and carry sand ladders.
- Insider tip for campers
- On the sand flats and tracks away from the tarmac road, a camper is better left standing: without four-wheel drive and lowered tyre pressure it digs in quickly. Allow for water and shade for walks; the sand gets very hot at midday.
4Stage 4: Kanab to Bryce Canyon (approx. 140 km)
- The drive
- From Kanab take US-89 north via Mt. Carmel Junction and Hatch, then UT-12 through Red Canyon and on into Bryce Canyon National Park (UT-63): high plain with meadows, later climbs to over 2,400 m. 55–65 mph, in towns 25–35. Pure driving time about 2 hours. Fuel up in Kanab, Hatch or Bryce Canyon City.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Red Canyon on UT-12: red rock spires and tunnels, short trails from the visitor centre; check tunnel heights beforehand for tall motorhomes.
- Bryce Amphitheater and Inspiration Point: hoodoos in orange, red and white; Sunrise Point is good for the morning. Note parking and the shuttle (seasonal).
- Navajo Loop and Queen’s Garden: a circuit of about 5.5 km down between the hoodoos, with a climb back to the rim at over 2,400 m.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Bryce Canyon National Park: North Campground and Sunset Campground, no hook-ups, with toilets and water; reservation via Recreation.gov for some of the pitches, otherwise first come, first served; check season dates beforehand. Red Canyon Campground (Dixie National Forest) is a simpler alternative. For pitches with hook-ups, private RV parks in Bryce Canyon City and Panguitch are suitable.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Dixie National Forest, dispersed camping is permitted on many forest roads, usually up to 14 days and only on areas already in use. Inside the national park itself, only on campgrounds. Altitude: even in summer it can freeze at night.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up with water and fuel before the climb; the altitude makes you thirsty. The Sunrise and Sunset Point car park fills early in high season, so use the shuttle. At Rainbow Point (end of the park road, about 29 km), the car park is tight for long vehicles.
5Stage 5: Bryce Canyon to Escalante (Grand Staircase) (approx. 75 km)
- The drive
- Take UT-12 east through Tropic and Cannonville, then along the northern boundary of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument over the highlands to Escalante: wide valleys, moderate bends, descents. 55–65 mph, in towns 25–35. Pure driving time about 1.5 hours, a full day with detours. Fuel up in Tropic or Escalante.
- Highlights & must-sees
- Kodachrome Basin State Park: coloured sandstone chimneys, short circular trails; the access road from Cannonville is paved.
- Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Visitor Center in Escalante: maps, road conditions and information on Hole-in-the-Rock Road; the first kilometres are usually manageable when dry, but not recommended for campers.
- Escalante Petrified Forest State Park: petrified wood, lake, a circuit of about 1 km.
- CampingSpirit overnight tip
-
Official campsite or RV park: Kodachrome Basin State Park (Basin Campground): among red rocks, RV-suitable pitches with showers and toilets on the site; check hook-ups, dump station and lengths on the Utah State Parks site before booking (the smaller Bryce View and Arch View have only 20 and 35 ft pitches respectively). Escalante Petrified Forest State Park: campground by the lake, limited pitches, water and toilets; book through Utah State Parks.
Free camping or nature tip (where legal): In Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, dispersed camping is permitted along many roads (free; backcountry overnights with a permit). Cottonwood Canyon Road and Hole-in-the-Rock Road are unpaved and impassable in wet weather; with a motorhome only the first kilometres and only when dry. Ask at the visitor centre for current road conditions.
- Insider tip for campers
- Fill up at the petrol station in Tropic or Cannonville before Escalante. If rain is forecast, never drive onto tracks or into slot canyons: flash floods and clay trap campers. Insect repellent at water points.
Camping practice & local rules
Wild camping & overnight parking
- Utah has no right to roam: overnighting is legal on BLM land and in National Forests (dispersed camping), usually up to 14 days in one place and only on pitches already in use near the access road, not on private land, state trust land (SITLA) or in national park and state park areas outside designated campgrounds. Stay friendly with rangers; violations can bring fines in the three-figure range.
- In several BLM areas (especially around Moab) special rules apply: designated camping corridors, fire bans, a requirement to carry toilet systems. Check the current map and rules with the relevant BLM Field Office or the municipality before relying on a spot.
- Wild camping along highways, at rest areas and in Walmart car parks is not tolerated everywhere; in towns such as Moab, Kanab and Springdale, checks are made at night. If you arrive somewhere without a pitch, it is best to ask a campground operator about short-notice vacancies.
- Wildfire and fire orders apply in summer almost every year; gas stoves are usually still allowed, open fires are not. Never leave a fire unattended and light one only in fire rings; check status with the BLM, Forest Service and utah.gov/fire.
- Water is the bottleneck: filter or boil water from streams and lakes in the highlands; in the desert there is often no water at the pitches. Desert soils are fragile: stay on rocky or already used areas, and do not walk on biocrust (dark, knobbly soil crusts).
- Apps and sites: Recreation.gov (NPS, BLM, Forest Service), Utah State Parks Reservation (stateparks.utah.gov), iOverlander, Campendium, The Dyrt, Gaia GPS with the BLM layer. Road conditions via UDOT Traffic (udottraffic.utah.gov or 511).
- In Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon National Park, camping is allowed only on designated campgrounds. In Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, dispersed camping along roads is permitted; free permits apply for backcountry overnights, ask about the rules at the visitor centre.
Waste disposal & supplies
- Dump stations and fresh water are not available in every park: in towns (Moab, Kanab, Bluff, Escalante, Torrey) for a fee at petrol stations or private sites, in some state parks for guests. Never release grey water onto the ground or into streams. sanidumps.com lists locations.
- Drinking water: tap water is drinkable in Utah. In national parks there are water points at the visitor centres and at campgrounds with water; in the desert and on BLM sites, take canisters (at least 4 l per person per day).
- Propane at petrol stations and dealers in Moab, Kanab, Cedar City, Blanding and St. George; European bottles need adapters and are mostly not refilled, rental motorhomes use fixed US tanks.
- Fuel: stretches between towns are long and there are many dead zones for mobile signal. Fill up fully before each section; in small towns petrol stations are more expensive and close early.
- Shopping: larger supermarkets in Moab, Kanab, Cedar City, St. George and Blanding; in small towns (Boulder, Torrey, Escalante, Mexican Hat), small shops with a limited range. Stock up on ice and fresh food beforehand.
- Electricity: pitches with hook-ups have 30 and 50 A (120 V); rental motorhomes bring the matching US cables. On pitches without electricity use the leisure battery and solar; generators are allowed in parks only at set times.
- Zion, Kanab and Springdale have laundries, supermarkets and dump stations for a fee; in Zion park itself, water stations at the visitor centre. On the stage to Escalante there are only small shops and few petrol stations.
Vehicle size & traffic rules
- Speed limits in mph: interstates 75–80, highways 55–65, in towns 25–35. Trailer combinations and larger motorhomes drive as signed, slower on mountain stretches because of the gradients. Use pullouts when vehicles collect behind the camper.
- Dimensions: legal maximum height 14 ft (4.27 m), width 8.5 ft (2.59 m). Watch for tunnels, rock overhangs and tight bends in parks; car parks at sights are often small and tight for vehicles over 25–30 ft.
- National parks: since 2026, higher fees or surcharges apply in some heavily visited parks for visitors without US residence; check current amounts at nps.gov. The America the Beautiful Pass is valid in NPS and BLM areas, not in Utah State Parks.
- Reservations: campgrounds in national parks and Forest Service via Recreation.gov (up to six months ahead), state parks via the Utah State Parks system; some pitches first come, first served only. In high season (April–May, September–October), advance planning makes sense.
- Weather: spring to early autumn is hot at low elevations (over 35 °C), at altitude (Bryce, Boulder Mountain) frost at night until May and from September. Thunderstorms and flash floods in canyons from July to September: never enter slot canyons when there is a risk of rain, and check the forecast the day before.
- Traffic law: right turn on red after a full stop, except where prohibited; at stop signs, order of arrival applies. Open alcohol containers in the vehicle prohibited, mobile phones hands-free only. A German driving licence is enough, an international one is recommended. Child-seat and seat-belt rules apply in motorhomes too.
- Emergencies: 911. Mobile signal often drops out in canyon areas; do not leave the vehicle if you break down off the road, and tell someone your route in advance. Always plan a larger water reserve in the vehicle than necessary.
- Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel: vehicles over 11 ft 4 in high, 7 ft 10 in wide or 35 ft 9 in long are subject to the NPS special rules (escort, check nps.gov); dimensions include mirrors and roof fittings. Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is closed to private vehicles in high season (shuttle). UT-12: altitudes over 2,400 m, moderate bends, winter ice; tracks (Hole-in-the-Rock, Cottonwood Canyon) are unsuitable for campers in wet weather.
CampingSpirit packing & preparation checklist
- Levelling ramps and sand ladders: sandy ground at Coral Pink and on BLM sites, slopes on forest roads.
- Water canister (20 l) and filter: summer over 35 °C, long stretches between towns, limited water points.
- Water shoes and neoprene socks for The Narrows (only in safe conditions), plus walking poles and a dry bag.
- Warm layers: Bryce lies above 2,400 m, nights in summer 2–8 °C, frost in autumn.
- Head torch and offline maps: hikes at sunrise and sunset; mobile signal drops out in canyons and on tracks.
- Sun protection, hat and a camera with a wide-angle lens for hoodoos, dunes and canyon walls.
As of 2026-09. Closures, fees and booking rules change: check official sources before you go.
.jpg){kind=link}