Val di Noto: Syracuse to Scicli

Route description

In Syracuse, start at the Neapolis Archaeological Park, with its Greek theatre carved into the hillside, the Ear of Dionysius and the Roman amphitheatre, and then cross to the island of Ortigia for the old town. Ortigia is a restricted traffic zone; use the Talete car park at its tip. South of the city the SP114 and the SS115 lead to Noto in about 40 minutes.

Noto was rebuilt after the earthquake of 1693 in golden limestone, and its cathedral and palaces are among the finest Baroque buildings in Sicily. A short drive to the coast brings you to the Vendicari reserve, where flamingos winter in the lagoons, and paths lead to beaches, a Norman tower and an old tuna fishery. Take water and sun protection; there is little shade.

Further south, Marzamemi is a small fishing village around the courtyard of an old tuna factory, busy on summer evenings. Beyond it lies Capo Passero, the south-eastern corner of Sicily. Turn inland to Modica, a town that spills down two valleys; the cathedral of San Giorgio stands above a staircase of some 250 steps, and the local chocolate is made by an old cold-working method.

Scicli, 10 km south of Modica, is a quiet Baroque town in a valley under rocky hills, used as a set for the Inspector Montalbano TV series. End in Ragusa, where the old quarter of Ibla lies on a spur below the upper town, reached by long stairways. All of these towns have steep, narrow streets; park on the outskirts and walk. Spring and autumn are the best seasons.